Toyota Owners Club

The brake fluid is justified as it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere (Hygroscopic) and can affect braking when they get hot. The suspension, I have never heard of that one before except for it may be possible for components to soften up and allow 'sagging' in the suspension but this would be evident by tire wear (if the tires don't show any wear on the inner or outer edges then there is nothing wrong with the suspension set up - unless you do a lot of city driving)

I think that service is due to be discontinued shortly so a lot of money for nothing in return really

There has been discussion on this on other car forums and you can source new steel rim and tyre through Toyota dealers but at a cost. Ideally, a SpaceSaver wheel is ideal for fitting into the boot area whereas a full-size wheel and tyre would take up valuable boot space but be more beneficial regarding cost (e.g. buy one from a junkyard complete or secondhand sale sites) and also can drive on it permanently rather than 50mph for maximum of 50 miles

I wouldn't be too worried about connecting into that circuit as it only adjusts the volume up and down depending on road speed. Given that you could inadvertently affect electronic control systems for the added advantage of volume control, I personally don't think its worth the risk

Certainly a wiring issue but one which would require further investigation to avoid damaging any electronic units As the vehicle is 2004 it shouldn't be loaded with CanBus systems so relatively straightforward wiring, in theory

That's a strange one, and think it sounds more like a reception issue rather than a software issue (a bit like mobile phone coverage)? Is the antenna for the satnav upgradeable or can you fit an external antenna such as the type used for DAB radio reception?

i would take it for a drive with the lights on and see if they disappear after a while. Chances are it could be water ingress into the electrics for the ABS and this could trigger the lights If the lights stay on then it is worth getting a scan carried out to see what fault codes are in the ECU memory which will make it easier and more precise to diagnose the actual fault If the lights come on when braking or accelerating then you maybe need to look at your tires which may be losing traction and bringing the lights on

If you have already changed the 12 volt battery it may require coding in to recognise the new voltage settings. If this has been done then it should start on that battery

sounds like it could be drawing air through the intake....look for splits in hoses and particularly anything past the throttle body housing area and inlet manifold

valeters tend to use distilled water to rinse off after washing as doesn't leave any spots then it can be sealed with a good quality wax polish that expels water once it contacts

Maybe something to discuss with your dealer as they should have a 'backdoor' to deactivating this setting

There is this advert within the forum that may be what you're looking for?

A case of weighing up the pros and cons I guess.....also consider will the scheme still be active in a few years time (e.g. similar to extended warranty which has been superseded with another scheme)

sounds like a slight alignment issue so maybe loosen the latch mechanism and close it then retighten the latch screws to see if that works

Your dealer should be able to give you guidance on this but usually there is a button to adapt the screen brightness but would have thought it should be set to automatically dim when the lights are switched on

Sounds like some wheel alignment is necessary to correct this issue

I would go for either genuine Toyota roof bars or others that are domestic market (USA) manufactured as going for those manufactured with 'dubious origin' could possibly result in the load detaching from the vehicle if of poor manufacturer or materials used

I would imagine it is worth taking it out as if gives peace of mind but cost wise it should be comparable to the UK which is around $500 for 3 years for an extended warranty

How did you manage to get on with the rewire? I would touch the terminals to see if there is any movement rather than solder until I know the connections to be correct The good thing is that it is unlikely to be controlled by CanBus at that age of vehicle

Just a case of following a procedure but just ensure that the wiper arm does follow its path and not contact the bodywork

Sounds like it could do with some maintenance to restore the mpg Oil, filters, plugs, etc.....shouldn't cost that much and would financially give a return from increased economy

I would definitely take it back to the dealers if it is that new as they should investigate it and rectify it under warranty

Wow! what an absolute beauty, haven't seen one of that model for many years (probably decades) now There may be a chance of finding a universal seal of the correct style and dimensions from eBay or other online sales sites Trouble is that you may need to remove it to measure the dimensions of the channels in the rubber where is fits the bodywork and glass

It should be a standard mini connector like you would find for a phone (maybe older model phone type connector)

Worth checking the seat belt pretensioners on each of the front seats as the connections go weak over time (located under the seats) You can prove this by pushing the seat rearwards and switching the ignition on to see if the SRS lamp goes out and then do the same rolling the seat forwards and switching the ignition once more to see if the lamp extinguishes. If no joy, then at least you have eliminated the pretensioners. Avoid physically touching the connections under the seat (coloured yellow) until the battery is disconnected for at least 30 minutes if you are going to disconnect and reconnect them