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Toyota Owners Club

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Everything posted by Toyota Owners Club

  1. Hi....welcome to the Club Feel free to post up some pics of the Corona, been a while since I have seen one on the road ****Have now moved this post to the correct sub-section of the forums
  2. Hi...welcome to the Club You can't really go wrong with the modern range of Toyota's and particularly the Camry which is tried and tested over the years. Glad to hear you are getting a good experience from your Camry and long may it last Good to have you onboard!
  3. There are plenty of chinese manufactured units for sale but a lot do not fit the dimensions you have Better off buying a Japanese Double-DIN unit which should fit with the appropriate bracketry
  4. Vacuum hose connections from the engine inlet manifold area
  5. I would look at Spark Plugs, Oil and Filter change and go from there. Fuel Filter change may also help matters
  6. Translated from Turkish Hello, I have a Toyota Tercel brand vehicle with A132L code automatic transmission and 2e code carburetor engine. The vehicle is LPG powered. It's pretty weak going uphill. It can only climb steep slopes at a speed of 10 km/h, sometimes it accelerates to 60 km/h, but slows down to 20 km/h on slopes. The engine mechanic said there was no problem with the engine. I thought the exhaust was clogged and replaced the exhaust system but the problem persists. Then I thought there might be a problem with LPG and tried to start the vehicle with gasoline, but the problem is still the same.
  7. It is usually in the throttle body and may need adapting if the revs are low on tickover. This is done through a scan tool with the correct actuator functions However, it would be worth looking for any air leaks in the rubber hoses and intake trunking as this could throw a code
  8. I have never heard of a new vehicle going back for retorquing of the wheel nuts as they would have been fitted at the factory (unless they had been removed for replacement wheels or any other work) and would have been torqued to the correct settings. When an independent garage or tire fitting company asks you to recheck your torque settings after a certain mileage it is usually because there is a waiver in place to ensure that if they haven't torqued the wheels correctly and something occurs then it becomes your responsibility. If you feel that you wish to confirm with your dealer for peace of mind then it will just be a phone call to reassure yourself
  9. Hi....welcome to the Club What are the exact codes you are getting from the vehicle? I wonder if there are two different issues with the vehicle and being confused as the same fault?
  10. Hi...welcome to the Club Your new battery will be of the sealed type and to be fair the old type vented battery hasn't been around for some years now....which is not a bad thing and the new type does not require any maintenance
  11. Hi...welcome to the Club I have always believed that some cars have a soul so I know what you mean. I own a BMW Z3 and have had it for years, it never puts a foot wrong and I cannot find the heart to part with it even though it is not driven much Plus, as you say, its enjoyable to maintain, unlike most modern cars Good to have you onboard!
  12. My first thoughts are that you may have gone through deep water and induced some into the cylinders. A wet air filter which may have dried out and will look very crinkled would be an indicator of this. When this occurs it creates a hydraulic lock which then bends the con-rods and slightly reduces the compression pressures in some of the cylinders but can leave the engine running fine but with the bottom of the piston skirt slightly contacting the crankshaft counterweights which can give that noise. Once the skirt is worn away then the noise disappears and leaves no trace that the rods are slightly bent except for the reduced power and slight lumpiness
  13. Interior temperature sensor blocked with dirt possibly? Also check the Cabin Filter is clean and installed correctly
  14. I would say that your last comment is the most likely cause Alternatively if anything has caused damage (inside or outside) to the windshield area where the ADAS sensors are located then this also could be the cause along with damage to the grille area if there is a radar or camera located behind the badge area
  15. has it got the function where you wave your leg under the rear fender area to open the tailgate rather than having to use your hands when loaded with shopping ? maybe when the garage door comes down it activates the tailgate opening function? In this case you will need to lock the car and this will not occur in the future
  16. Most of the collision avoidance sensors are in the top of the windscreen area but there is also a radar or camera behind the badge are in the grille you may have parking sensors in the front bumper or this could be a camera depending on the vehicle spec levels
  17. I know the noise you are referring to and I would be tempted to believe it is coming from the master cylinder side rather than the pedal side. It may just be worth pulling the master cylinder back from the servo and visually ensuring the actuating rod is in place and that nothing is untoward in the vicinity (leaking master cylinder, actuator rod not rubbing against anything, etc) Also worth checking the vacuum pipe connection is secure as sometimes if leaking it can create a rasping sound when the pedal is applied. This also applies to the pedal side where it can also be heard when the pedal is applied as the valve switches from vacuum to ambient air which works the servo diaphragm. If this is the case then you may need a new brake servo
  18. Hi JayKay....welcome to the Forum Fine looking Avalon and always look best in white I reckon Great to have you onboard!
  19. there is usually a release button located on the unit https://www.google.com/search?q=2007+Toyota+Avalon+DVD+release+button&rlz=1C5CHFA_enGB830GB831&oq=2007+Toyota+Avalon+DVD+release+button&aqs=chrome..69i57.9168j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
  20. Probably not worth getting the app as it seems there are issues of lack of support and the app disappearing over time
  21. Sounds like loose connections in the engine bay if the running fault is associated with bumpy roads. Start with checking the battery connections and terminals are tight. Check the earth leads going to the engine/trans are tight and not damaged When the code appears again then leave running and fiddle with leads in the engine bay to see if anything changes in the way of running (Ford call this the 'wiggle test' and is by far the best way to diagnose where a fault is)
  22. Thermostat would be my first thought and only other one would be the fact that the heater matrix may need another back-flushing if lots of debris came out on the previous flush then it may have dislodged more of it and it is sitting in the matrix. A temperature gun works well to measure various parts of the system to see where there is a hot or cold spot
  23. Starter motor leads or connections, poor earth lead from battery, battery terminals not tight or starter is defective Check also the brake lights work, as could be a defective brake pedal switch
  24. Did you replace the crank sensor with a reputable make? a lot of cheap aftermarket sensors (from dubious sources) don't work from the off and definitely worth trying a better quality sensor Also check you have spark/fuel, etc as this will not be present if the crank sensor is bad. If it is fuelling/sparking then it is unlikely to be the sensor at fault
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