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Try taking it to an independent garage as an ABS module change it easy enough to carry out However, I would try a fluid change (including flushing the ABS module to see if this improves things (which would occur if you had the module changed anyway)

A transmission specialist may be the best course of action as they can advise if it is a warranty issue which you can address with the dealership or if it just needs a fluid and filter change then they should be able to carry this out at a cheaper cost then the dealer

Worth changing the oil and filter to start with if it hasn't been done for a while?

Maybe worth checking that any rubber stabilizer mounts on the engine/transmission are in good order If there is too much lateral movement on the engine/transmission when the power is applied then this can sometimes knock gears out of position. Worth checking before opening up the gearbox

Is there a strut top mount (rubber mount with a bearing inside)? If so them this may be causing the noise and movement if it isn't in position properly? Maybe best to remove the strut, examine the mount and then refit

Try this sequence to change the door locking mode https://itstillruns.com/change-door-lock-sequence-toyota-5640027.html

Sometimes an aftermarket audio system head unit is the way forwards (such as Pioneer, Sony, etc) as the functions are much more advanced and updatable and considerably cheaper method of updating an old system

Sometimes an aftermarket audio system head unit is the way forwards (such as Pioneer, Sony, etc) as the functions are much more advanced and updatable and considerably cheaper method of updating an old system

The early MR2 is becoming more popular over the years and can imagine there will be quite a bit of interest in it Maybe worth advertising it on one of the MR2 social media sites as the biggest following for this model will be on there

Maybe the formatting of the flash drive is incorrect and not recognised

I would try disconnecting the battery and leave for about 30 minutes reconnect and take it for a drive for the transmission to relearn the shift patterns

Maybe needs a firmware update to match the software update Speak to your local dealership about this

It looks like this function has been locked off The instruction sheet seems to state that the dealer can override certain functions. Maybe worth dropping by your local dealer just to ask the question as there may be a backdoor to opening up this submenu

Are the new struts any different dimension to the old ones ? overall and when compressed/uncompressed ?

Hi and welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

You could try an 'Air Con Bomb' which is like a smoke grenade Keep windows up and turn vents to recirculation and fan on high Fire up the Air Con Bomb (or similar) and allows it to circulate the smoke which kills off bacteria in the ventilation system Although I am surprised that it would have bacteria causing smell inside the vehicle at that age but worth giving it a try for $10

Plastic welding is by far the best way and cheap kits on eBay Takes a bit of practice to feed the filler rod around the bracket but you'll soon get the hang of it

Hi MadMexican ....welcome to the Club Usually if the plug is burnt away on the electrodes then that cylinder is running lean - possible air leak to that cylinder on the inlet manifold? Look for any leaks in that cylinder area and should resolve the issue

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Hi LIDuck ...welcome to the Club great news and congrats on the new Tacoma !

Does the car have a glass sunroof?

I would imagine that if the tire wear is on the inside of the tread then this is down to excessive toe-out on the steering This may be caused by worn suspension components and it is definitely worth checking for wear or broken components to assure there is nothing dangerous occurring there. However, for the wear to be even on both from tires does not sound like a singular failed component and that both side failed at the same rate (possible but not probable) suggests to me that it is just plain old wheel alignment needed. Take the truck elsewhere and get them to measure it and show you the results before committing to expensive and unnecessary repairs

Not entirely sure where it is located but I would unplug (with the ignition off) each and every plug I could find on the transmission to look for water or dirt ingress and any corrosion Here is some info on the fault code: https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p0717-obd-ii-trouble-code-input-turbine-speed-sensor-no-signal

Usually one year is perfectly fine for synthetic oils and if it were a diesel engine then I would say every sic months is preferable

I wonder if it is a depleted battery where the vehicle may have sat on the dealership forecourt for some time Once the battery is fully charged through a long run then quite possibly this fault may disappear? If not then I would hound them for any software or firmware updates that haven't yet been carried out and hopefully this will resolve the issues