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Hi everyone! Just joined and looking forward to being part of this club / forum. Just bought a 2022 Corolla SE after trading in a 2006 Highlander with 240K on it which I bought new. I had purchase a new 2004 Corolla for my daughter and she had driven that almost 300K. Thanks and have a great day! Dominic

Just got my Camry about 4 months ago, did all the headlight tinting myself. I’d love to see what you guys have done to your cars.

Rare Classic 1985 Celica GTS Convertible White w/Gray/Black Interior $10,000 OBO 2nd owner since 1987. 174,000 miles, always garaged. Original power top in good shape and doesn’t leak but not perfect. Has original hard-sided parade boot cover in great shape which is often missing. This was the last year of square body style for Celica. Mostly stock but has DVD nav system that plays movies and HD radio with dual amps and truck sub, Clifford proximity alarm system senses cockpit access, and the stock aluminum wheels that have been professionally chromed to a beautiful mirror finish at a cost of $3000. Tires are not new but have plenty of tread. Mechanically working good but in need of care and maintenance. Price reduced from market value to cover that. These cars are rare: only 4400 ever built. Can be licensed as a classic car. Car is in good shape and is ready to go. Fun to drive and a real eye catcher with those mirror-chrome wheels and sharp looks. Needs a new owner to enjoy and care for it for many more years of fun in the sun. Text or call Lee at 206-three zero four-1506. Best offer takes it.

Hi and welcome

For a car this old (and any used car in fact) the most important thing are the service records. If the owner has them it is a real plus. You can see how the car was cared for and what issues it had. My daughter had a Corolla and had issues with water leakage around the rear tail lights into the trunk, also a wheel bearing went after about 100K miles. Also, the rubber seal around the moon roof cracked and leaked. Make sure that the fluids were changed at the proper intervals. That is probably the most important issue. Make sure it LOOKS cared for. Better to buy a car from an older gentleman that has owned it since new.

Thank you guys for all your opinions. I just solved the problem and here is the cause: The master control switch on the driver's side affects all window switches. Even if all the other individual windows are working but the corresponding switch in the master is broke, the window will not function. All power and functions pass thru the master. I opened the master switch all the way to the motherboard. The top switch handle cover (the black color with the 4 switches, the side mirror switch, and the on/off window safety switch) can be separated from the underneath electronic motherboard which are attached with 3 small screws. Upon separation, I discovered that the 4 top handle switches have a "fork-like" or "claw-like' feature at their bottoms which move each window mechanism in a forward or backward manner so that when you push the switch handle down, the mechanism moves backward and the window goes down; by the same token, when you lift the switch handle, the mechanism moves forward and the window goes up. This "fork-like" or "claw-like" shape at the bottom of each handle catches and inserted into a small "knob-like" feature attached to the mechanism that slides it to move forward or backward. What happened to my passenger side window switch handle was that this "fork-like" feature broke and so could not control the mechanism. You cannot buy just the top handle cover separate from the electronic mechanism; you have to buy the complete unit which costs US$ 385 - 400 from the dealerchip. I was able to find a used one for US$ 75.00. What caused the handle switch fork to break, I do not know. My car is only 4 years old and 50,000 miles. I may have to write the Toyota company for an explanation or to suggest to research and develop a more sturdy design of the switches. There you are folks. Lots of work and diagnosis but it saved me some money.

I have recently come into possession of a 1978 Corona wagon. After finding out that information on these things is INCREDIBLY hard to find, I'm here for some support. The car has some big rust issues, and the fuel tank is no exception. I've pulled the tank, and found that it has been brazed before in an attempt to seal up a leak. This hasn't worked. My question for you guys is: Any ideas for putting a fuel cell (or fuel cell like universal) in the position of the stock tank? The area I'm working with is roughly 28x25x9, with the fill tube of the stock tank exiting on the passenger side of the tank (LHD car). I'd like to reuse the original filler tube, as I want to preserve the stock look, but recovering the current tank is not a viable solution for me. I'm going to link to some pictures of the space where the stock tank was located, the fill tube location, and the original tank. The tank is very strange in that it fills from the side, and I'm trying to find something simple to replace it with. Any ideas on ways to make this work would be incredibly helpful. I'm trying to avoid putting a cell just in the back hatch, or running a fill tube in the middle of the back storage area, I'd like to keep that as available storage. Let me know what you guys think. Links to the pictures of the tank/tube/install area: https://ibb.co/89mDj5C https://ibb.co/zs0tHQw https://ibb.co/xSMvHs3 https://ibb.co/9HzF7gK https://ibb.co/Zfn8NYc https://ibb.co/pKzPGXn https://ibb.co/3YmbQGk https://ibb.co/ZWLfdwz https://ibb.co/hCLhHMK https://ibb.co/R6mcZfH Note that the fill tube on the tank is located on the passenger side, and the tank is oriented so the spare tire indent (near the fuel pump) is oriented downward when tank is installed. Also dog tax Also, also, I have scoured for fuel cells and aftermarket tanks on all major websites... Short of going through thousands of tanks manually, I've come to the forums. RT43 Tune-Up & Maint. FIGR 49.pdf