All Activity

Hi Hybrid5, On the left side of the steering wheel, there should be a direction pad with an OK button in the center. Use the Up/Down arrows on this pad to select different displays for the digital Multi-Information Display that is behind the steering wheel. One of the displays is a digital speedometer. This system is covered on page 95 of the Venza 2021 User Manual. 🙂

Isn't the whole XRS line kind of a limited edition 😉 Love to know what's different on it. Ben

Hi, nice car - got pics? I believe they used the Celica engine in the XRS, so we're kind of car cousins!

Hi everyone. Toyota basically perfected the internal combustion engine and the cars are more reasonably priced than the nearest competitor, so yeah. I pre-inherited an XRS from my father-in-law and am interested in getting into the guts of this beast, I'll probably really zero in on make and model in the discussions here, but also own an 04 Corolla with ridiculously low mileage (about to turn 6th dial for the first time). See you around the forums. Ben

2021 RAV4 all weather floor and cargo mats. Only used for 6 weeks, can’t tell from new. Dealer retail $400. Sale price $175. Email contact sjyork@comporium.net

Hello. We've got 3 prius. After the 09 had it's CC stolen we put CatShield anti-theft devices on all of them. Now we're looking at a new 2021 Venza. It doesn't look like catshield makes on for the Venza. Has anyone found an anti-theft device for the Venza they're happy with? Also does it void any part of the warranty?

The dealership scheduled an inspection by a regional specialist. Upon arrival at the dealership 9/30/21, the low on fuel indicator was on, and the display said "16 miles to empty". The regional specialist called a few hours later and stated the following: They pumped 2.75 gallons of gas from the tank, "as much as the fuel pump would pump out". He stated that there could have been as much an another gallon remaining, in the tank after the pumping. They then added 13.43 gallons to the tank. The "vehicle is operating properly at this time". The "miles to empty" reading is an estimate based upon previous tanks of gas. He was going to present his findings to Toyota headquarters. He did agree that adjustments should be made to the "miles to empty" reading (i.e. it shouldn't display "16 miles to empty" when there are at least 3 gallons of gas remaining.

Check the grounds and fuses. Also, try disconnecting the switch.

Just purchased gently used 2021 Venza LE. Trying to find a way to see speed as digital rather than analog. Is this possible?

Good morning, I made the mistake of partially opening a sunroof when I saw it leaking a bit after a car wash -- thinking it wasn't closed all the way -- and when I went to close it, it wouldn't closed. At this point, I've confirmed it is the motor -- a multimeter confirms that it has power as expected to the switch, and that the switch provides power as expected. It's definitely the motor. I don't really care about the sunroof -- just want to get it closed. Haven't seen any type of manual way to close as is often on a sunroof. Anyone have an idea how to close the sliding sunroof manually? Thanks! Neil

Agree it is an eyesore in an otherwise clean sharp design.

Hello brothers and sisters. Does anyone know of there is a company that makes a push bar/ grill guard that can mount to the front bumper tow eyes? THANKS, NATE

Hi, I have a problem where my brake lights stay illuminated brightly (both sides in the rear and the third brake light in the rear window) whenever my automatic headlights come on at night. So whenever I drive at night, my brake lights are always on, not just the dim running tail lights. I did some testing and found out that if I press the brake pedal before my headlights turn on, it also illuminates my front corner lights but not my actual headlight bulbs. I assume that there is a relay or circuit board somewhere that controls the headlights and brake lights, which probably got fried when I got LED replacement tail light bulbs a month or two ago. I checked the wiring going to my lights in the trunk area, and I can't find any bare wires that might be shorting out or crossing. I had all my interior trim pieces off a while ago, and the wiring loom seemed in good condition from the dashboard area all the back to the trunk. Does anyone know what might be causing this, or know where I can check around to find a brake light controller circuit board that I can inspect for burns or corrosion? Thanks!

I know the 07 year model had a special edition. Not sure about the 06.

Check first if the blower is working fine.

I think you will be fine though you might notice a drop in mileage.

previa real great i have gone through 2 but still have 2 right now one of the mane thing that i would say exhaust the flex pipe in front of the cat its a one piece part prices vary i have just bin replace the flex the rest is good breaks is great as long as they get check once per year (disk pads) depends on how you drive there is 4 wheel disk and front disk and rear shoes lot of parts are still arable at rock-auto body parts is a different thing overall they are great sorry that they discontinued that line in the us good hunting

Consider an aftermarket muffler instead. There are lots of options like Flowmaster, Borla and Dynomax.

I’m seeking advice if E10 fuel (ie 10% alcohol) is OK for such an old car. It is a US model, but have it now in Europe, where the 5% is being phased out. Here they have lists of cars that can or can not take it, and 2000 is about the year before which it is not recommended, however engines are very different in cars sold here. (By the way this fuel would be 95 octane, my only alternative is to use 100 octane with no or 5% alcohol). Any advice would be much appreciated.

Noise stopped. Much wtr direct from hose (not spray bottle) on different pulley and noise stopped. After 30-60 sec noise returned. Repeated this 6 times. The last two listened to returned noise for over 10min and it never stopped or changed...until more wtr. Unplug alt or turn on AC also stops noise. Screwdrver to ear cant find source. Free spinning pulleys fell smooth and silent. Although most have some play. Took car for 1st street drive since noise 1st manifested months ago. Drove for 20 min. Then noise was gone. Only time ever no noise except for 2nd time w\wtr on belt and alt\AC mentioned above. After street drive let idle for 10 min and no noise. A few days later another 10 min idle no noise. A few weeks later noise present and louder (i have recording). After about 10 min noise volume reduced and was like all previous times. Then after 5 min it went away. Then it returned for few seconds and went away for 10-30 sec or even a minute or few minutes then returned for few seconds. Over and over. Few week later start no noise, drv for 20 minutes and no noise again For months every time I ran engine it made this noise, now actually drving car seems to stop it. 150k miles. Belt chnged w\oem about 6 months before. Thoughts?

FWIW, after reading this thread up to Sept 27th, many owners are doing two things they should avoid and if there is a problem with the tank or its fill neck design, hopefully Toyota will address it before I buy one of your cars as a pre-owned. 🙂 If you nurse more gas in after first shut-off, you risk contaminating the charcoal cannister (an emission device) with raw gas. Warranty is unlikely to cover repair costs. And the other very expensive bad habit is running your car low on gas on a regular basis. Electric fuel pumps are situated in the bottom of the tank and are integral to the fuel pump assembly which consists of the pump, a fuel filter, its assorted info sending unit assemblies which send measurements to your fuel gauge, and assorted mileage computers, and the steel mounting bracketry that supports it all. The pump is designed to be lubricated and cooled by the gasoline itself. If you regularly run your tank low, you risk both those conditions as you brake and accelerate and go over bumps, but you also risk pump cavitation, another condition which is easily avoided by refueling sooner rather than later after your low fuel light comes on. Most manufacturers build in a conservative safe-guard of remaining fuel quantity when the light is first triggered for all the reasons above and especially to avoid the very unsafe condition of actually running out of fuel at the worst possible moment. Lastly, a significant detail that is rarely known and basically never discussed till now, is that when a manufacturer (all of them) specifies a fuel capacity of any gas tank, it is the actual volume of the tank, prior to the volume that the entire fuel pump assembly uses up, which in some cases can be more than a 1/3 of a gallon. This uncalculated volume is of more significance when the tanks are smaller like that used on a motorcycle, but after reading this thread, I think more than a few of you will appreciate this rarely known detail. Sometimes tanks can have unusual formed shapes to fit around axles, suspension components, batteries etc, even with structural agendas in mind to increase crash and fire protection. In some cases this can lead to air pockets that fool you into thinking your tank is full. This can be exagerated by gas stations that may not be entirely level where you refuel.

Could be the sway bar link/bushing.

idle great when cold until reaches operating temp then it starts to idle rough switch it off restart idle OK for a little then back to rough idle

Problem I have is the brskes work well when pumped...but pedal can go to the floor if held down 5 seconds

I took my highlander for emissions test in Maryland The printout said multiple diagnostic monitors had not had a chance to reset. I took the battery out a month ago. Could that have done something? Do I need to reset something,like the computer? Thank you for any help