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- Today
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is it possible for a car with 12 bad cells to be driveable?
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mzey joined the community
- Yesterday
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Patriot95 joined the community
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What is the max wheel and tire size I should look at? Currently I have the factory 17" wheels. End goal: make my highlander have a more rugged look without going too crazy and sacrificing ride quality. Want to buy a good set of black wheels anyway for the look and don't know what my constraints are.
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Dummy stick for the hood😁 Me too! Great car
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Hello all, I am looking into getting a used Avalon and was wondering what year/generation to go for. I wanted to stay away from the newer models (not a big fan of the cvt, although i heard they are getting better) and want to make an informed buy. I know the Avalon is basically a big Camry. Is it true Avalons ride like a Buick? Even if they ride like a Camry thats still a great ride. What years are problematic & should be avoided? What to check for when buying? Regular maintenance intervals Has anyone had a sticky accelerator? (heard that is common with a lot of toyotas) I know about the toyota reliability my 95 Camry still going strong, hopefully my future Avalon is the same Thanks!!!
- Last week
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97rolla joined the community
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User261483 joined the community
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JimMiller joined the community
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Hi All, I'm working on picking up a Sienna for my elderly parents. A lot of the models I see offered don't have the factory installed Auto Access Seat. How hard would it be to add one? Any salvage yards known for having these seats used -- my searches don't turn up much at all.....
- Earlier
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Hi all...I am a new member and am delighted to be part of such a knowledgeable group of fellow Toyota Tacoma folks. Here is my dilemma: I have a 2017 Tacoma trd off road 4x4. After I start the vehicle in the AM and then start to drive, when I come to a stop sign and start to slow down to stop, right before I stop and have the brakes applied, I hear a knock or thump coming from the rear of my Tacoma. It seems to happen as if the transmission is downshifting. I have been doing a little research on this and have been given suggestions that the slip yoke may need to be greased. But as you all know, my 2017 does not have a grease zerk to grease the slip yoke. Also, is the slip yoke located on the rear drive shaft coming from the rear differential or the smaller drive shaft coming from to transfer case to the front axle. And it appears I would have to remove either both or just one of the drive shafts? How many slip yokes are on my Tacoma. I kinda know that the transmission on the 3rd generations have their issues. But I am asking for your thoughts on this matter and if you think I have a transmission or other type problem or if this issue I mentioned is the nature of these transmission issues and it is something I just have to live with and that this is no problem and just keep driving. Anyway, I took the truck to the dealer and they said they would have to diagnose the issue and that it could possibly cost me $120.00 plus the parts to fix if necessary. Greasing the slip yoke is a maintenance issue to the dealer and would have to be paid out of pocket So kind ladies and gentlemen, do I have a problem and if so your thoughts on the matter, should I take my Tacoma to the dealer, or can I do this, grease the slip yoke, on my own. Thanks for your feedback in advance.
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parker joined the community
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Wilo joined the community
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Hey folks, I'm in a bind. I posted this on another forum, but I figured maybe I could get some more info. I am working on a 2002 Echo and having a devil of a time getting the driver side axle out. There is hardly any space around the end of the inner cv axle to get any tools in...very cramped of space. The official Toyota part recommended to get the axle from the transmission is 09520-01010...but everywhere I look that part is $250 or more! I need to get this part out as quickly as possible but I can't spend that much...does anyone know an alternative to that part? I've included a pic to show what it looks like. Can anyone please help???
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I have a 2002 with 77400 km. Same power train ! Only major replacement was the steering rack because it was not made of aluminum.
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I just bought a Camry for my son, to drive to school. It idles at 2k, so I confirmed there is no vacuum leak, so now onto the Idle control valve. I was gonna clean it, but I broke the magnetic pole, so I need to buy a new part. What, if anything...will happen if I install an 01 Camry standard Idle control valve, on a California compliant Camry? I don’t need the California compliance, in WI. I know the car has to relearn the idle...but will a standard valve work? Or am I gonna throw a code? Thanks, Tim
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so heres my problem, Im a trim carpenter and i have to have my tools with me to do my job. i have a shop stool on wheels in the back seat. there is only like 3 feet from the back of the up right seat to the hatch. Im not going to have enough room for a conventional install. so i was thinking that i was just going to install some aftermarket door speakers that have some thump to them and amplify those instead. anybody know what the best speaker fit size wise would be for the front and back. Im big on music so not having the traditional pounding for some subwoofers is kind of frustrating. but im stuck with it at this point. i think some high quality door speakers that can handle some power with a 4 channel amp would be great. so basically does anyone know what size speakers for the front and back and which speakers i should buy if im looking for more bass out of my door speakers. im a total noob. when it comes to car audio. this is the first time using a forum before also so if ive broken any rules im sorry thanks for your time guys.....
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Well our two month old Camry had to be jump started twice (Dead as a door nail battery). At the dealer ng serviced even as I write this. It seems Toyota has a problem which I will be sure to bring up when I pick up the car. Fortunately, it's a leased vehicle and if a battery every two months is what it needs, so be it.
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Hello everyone. I'm new here to the forums. I have a 2005 Toyota Matrix XR automatic 265k+ Miles and still running strong. Honestly the most reliable and long lasting car I have ever owned. I've had the car a little over 10 years and have done just about everything to it from new starter, alternator, gaskets, brakes, rotors, coils, belts, ect. I stay very on top of the oil changes every 3k miles since the engine is getting so old. The main problem I feel I have at this point with my Matrix and its old age is my Catalytic Converter. The main code that the matrix throws off these days in the P0420, Which is basically saying I a new cat. I was considering just replacing the upstream and downstream O2 sensors, but in pretty sure the main issue is the cat. The car still runs fine, just struggles a little up hills and often times the engine does not have the accelerate power it used to, im thinking cause the cat is clogged after all these years. That all being said, do you guys feel I should just continue to drive it as is until its toast (I hear you can drive with a bad car for quite sometime and I don't need to pass emmisions tests where I'm from) or straight pipe my exhaust and get more acceleration power out of the car and life out of it in the long run. Questions and comments welcome please thank you for any tips! -
The best I can tell you is: find a junkyard. There are quite a few parts for Camrys there. If you can't find it in a junkyard where you live, one of the American junkyards might be willing to ship you one.
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First Toyota after years of Hondas
Lumiere replied to Lumiere's topic in New Members Area - Just signed up? Come and say Hi!
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Just drove home a used 2018 Camry LE. Ruby Flare Pearl. Good shape save a couple of door dings. Impressed with the L4/2.5 engine, 18,019 miles. Do not like the foot activated emergency brake!
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What happens internally to the engine when the cabin heater core becomes plugged and will not let the coolant flow through ?? I have a 2002 Avalon with the 6 cylinder engine.
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Mine is a 2020 SE, bought it 3 weeks ago, battery was dead this morning. I was in a rush so I jumped it off my other vehicle.
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Hi everyone, I am living in Canada. Toyota Corolla has released firmware for Android Auto Car Play for 2019 models in Europe. Later the link was removed, it is said that it could be officially uploaded in a few months. Many users have already downloaded the firmware and updated the multimedia system with usb in Europe. In Canada, the 2020 Corolla supported only Apple Car Play, while Android Auto Car Play support was offered for 2021 models, wasn't offered Corolla 2020. Those who bought the 2020 model with a new case and new screen like me were disappointed. When will Corolla offer Android Auto Car Play support to 2020 models for Canada and the US, does anyone know?
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I have a 2008 Solara XLE 4 Cylinder that the ABS light has been coming on intermittently. This just started a week ago. No other warning indicators are on. Took it to the local Toyota dealership. They pulled codes. They are: C0200 RF Speed Sensor Circuit, C0210 RR Speed Sensor Circuit, C0215 LR Speed Sensor Circuit, and C1330 Open Circuit in RF Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit. They only performed a basic check of the wiring for any damage. They said it could take several hours to further diagnose what is going on. They gave me an estimate of $2,400 to replace the three sensors, but also said they cant guarantee that replacing the sensors would take care of it. I am highly skeptical that three of the four sensors could all go out at once like this. Anyone else run into this problem?
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I have read all complaints at this U.S. Forum and also in the UK Toyota Owner Club in which this issue is happening Global and out of all the post yours is the one that made more sense to me because I have never had an issue with my car untill last week 9-4-20 when i decided to try out the Automatic Hi Beam feture and in 2 days sunday my car battery died I searched all possible solutions why and the only thing i can think of is the automatic high beams so i disabled this feature and used my small portable battery starter that I purchased from amazon and re-started my car again. 4 days later today 9-11-20 my battery completely dead again why? this is a $26,000 car new why is it having issues I hope Toyota recalls this issue asap or there will be class action Lemon Law happening soon as stated by law after the 4th time taking it to the dealer and they cannot fix the issue this then falls in the Lemon Law here in California not sure in other states.
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Hi I am a new owner: Just bought a new 2020 Camry SE in June now on my 3rd month this week my battery has "died on me twice" not sure why ive checked all possible issues that might be causing the battery to die. Is anyone having this issue has anyone found a solution to why they are going dead or what is Toyota doing about this issue? -
I had a series of lights come on all at once and did some research and found out the 12V battery was going bad so I replaced it. Lights went out upon restart, great! Thought the problem was solved and about a week later the same thing happened again. I have since learned that if I disconnect the battery, then reconnect both terminals the car runs fine for about a week. So I didn’t really need a 12V battery as first thought? What is the real problem?
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I have searched and searched, but cannot find this detail - What is the GCWR (gross combined weight rating) or GCVWR (gross combined vehicle weight rating) for my 2017 XLE AWD? I can find these limits: curb weight: 4590 towing capacity: 5000 GVWR: 6000 payload: 1340 I even found: GAWR front: 2955 GAWR rear: 3505 But I cannot find the total weight rating for both the vehicle and potential trailer. Can anyone please help? Thanks in advance!
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Same here. I took my Car to the dealer and they did some testing...everything good they said. They charged my battery and now I'm hoping it doesn't drain. It's ridiculous...
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No, there are no warning lights. I can't switch from ECO mode to any other mode. I will go to a dealer. Thanks
