humanoid

They're both probably dealers.... In fact I used to be one, actually a preferred customer.

87 octane is plenty good for your Yaris. You don't need hight octane unless your engine knocks or pings or if you are tubocharged or supercharged. Buying higher octane, some say, yields better gas mileage, that's debateable. Save your money and just stay with 87 octane.

Steve, you can try http://blackstone-labs.com/index.html. That is where I got my free test kit from.

The 3000 mile oil change is the thing of the past, a waste of resources and just some oil company con job now. With oil technology these days, you can go well past 3000 miles. You can go 25K with Amsoil, but I would get an oil analysis first. I'm changing my oil out at the next 5K mile interval and will do an oil analysis then to find out how much longer I can extend the change interval. BP owns Castrol so I think we would be referring to Castrol here in the States rather than BP.

I'm unsure about the answer to your first question so I won't give you one purely on my speculation. As for the filter, I would change it out after the first 5000Km. The oil filter can only hold so much contaminants and it will get full. After that the contaminants the aren't filtered out will just be circulated in your engine, not a good thing. Just change out the oil filter at 5000Km and you should be OK. I go 5000 miles between oil changes and I change my filter out at 2500 miles just to be on the safe side.

Did you reset the code with the scanner? If you don't know how, just look in the fuse box for the big black square-ish looking fuse and pull that and leave it off for about 15 minutes and put in back in the slot. That should clear the code. If not, you'll have to clear it by undoing the negative battery terminal for the same amount of time and that should clear the codes. Make sure you don't have other codes in the computer, have your computer re-read to make sure there aren't other codes stored.

Just go by whatever your manual states. Using synth should be fine as well. If you have any general oil related questions, you should head on over to bobistheoilguy.com. You'll have more info about motor oil than you can shake a stick at.

I'm pretty sure it's easy. I don't have a Camry, but I would suspect that you will need to remove some screws and or clips and you should be good to go.

Located in SoCal, San Gabriel Valley, USA. Have a pair of Taco OEM leaf packs off a '99 PreRunner Xtra Cab. Has about 114K miles on them and will sell them for $50. Maybe good for a pack rebuild? No delivery, local pick-up only or I can meet you somewhere for the exchange if you are local. Reply to this thread or you can email me, thanks!

Yes, there would be a great possibility that it would show up the next oil change and no, since the bolt was so tightly screwed up in there it wouldn't show any signs of leakage I would think. BTW, where is your car now since they couldn't tighten the bolt up, still at the $tealer?

I think during one of the oil changes the knucle-dragger at the $tealer probably cross threaded it causing the drain bolt to not thread properly and messing up the threads. I think one option would be to have the threads re-threaded, but I'm not sure if that's feasible. The only other option I can think of is to change out the whole oil pan. The crap that happend to you is the reason why I do a lot of my own maintenance on my rig.

Sweet ride... and welcome! :D

I would check all the fuses to make sure any of them aren't busted. Also, does the car start OK? Did these problems start all of a sudden? This could be a sign of an old or dying battery and/or alternator.

Pics of your project would be fantastic!

Stick with NGK or Denso. Iridium plugs... well, I guess they couldn't hurt too much, if you don't mind paying a premium for them.

Are you sure you checked all your exterior bulbs? That light should reset itself once you've replaced all the burnt bulbs. It sounds as though you have another burned out bulb somewhere.

Double check the bulbs and see if they are burnt out. I'm not sure what type of bulbs you have, but if you have dual filament bulbs then I'm 99.9% sure one of the filaments/bulbs are burned out. You may also want to use some sandpaper and work the contacts on the bulb real good. One or more of your bulbs may have a bad contact with the connector. Keep us posted on your progress.

The knuckledraggers at Firestone probably knocked a vacuum hose off near the throttle body when they were cleaning it. Check around for any signs of loose hoses at the like. I had did the same thing when I was cleaning my throttle body and accidently knocked a vacuum hose loose under the throttle body and my truck was idling very rough.

Also, the best thing to do is have a trusted mechanic look at the problem if all of this confuses you. I know it can be overwhelming at times, but read up on things so you don't get duped by someone in the future.

Aggie - look at my first post to this thread for the meaning of MAF. IMO: In my opinion.

Steve - Yota's have the same problem as the Chevy's do. I know from experience as well as annecdotal evidence from members on other boards. They foul up the MAF and cause more headaches than they're worth IMO.

P1130 Lack Of HO2S Switch - Adaptive Fuel At Limit Toyota specific: P1130 Air-Fuel Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Sorry, no idea what that means... Forgot, the link below is a page to tell you what all the CEL codes are. http://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/dr_z_obd/dr_z.htm

P0130 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) P0171 System too Lean (Bank 1) One of your O2 sensors may be bad or dirty. Do you have a K&N filter or other foam type filter that needs to be cleaned and oiled? It sounds like your MAF (mass air flow) sensor is dirty or something.

You can try trdparts4u.com and email or call them. They've got great prices and fantastic customer service. But I'm not sure if they deliver overseas though, they're located in Texas here in the States.

bobistheoilguy.com more than you ever wanted to know about oil... and then some.