DFBonnett
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Everything posted by DFBonnett
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Go here to download a manual.... http://www.camrymanuals.com/ Ebay for the part. The dealer will charge you $400 for a job you can do yourself for $50.
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Try cleaning the Idle Air Control valve (IAC). That solved the problem on our '93 V6.
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Consider also cleaning the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve.
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http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry/index.html
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If you let the car sit at idle, do the fans come on? Do they come on if you turn on the A/C?
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Great tip. Many thanks.
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Fifty miles will get it good and hot to get all the condensation out of the exhaust system. As the manual states, avoid the long warmups.
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Just get in and drive it gently.Does it get a good run every week or so?
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First you have to figure out why the window is popping off the track. You might want to consider removing the door panels on both front doors and comparing the window components. What is different between the two that could account for the malfunction? FWIW YMMV
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I'd start by cleaning the throttle body and the ISC/IAC valve first. You can download a manual here.... http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry/index.html
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If it's clicking at all the problem is not with the shifter, it's with the battery, connections, cables, or starter itself.
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What are the best sites that sell toyota parts
DFBonnett replied to uaesolidsnake's topic in General Toyota Discussions
From the FAQ on their website...... Do you ship outside the United States? Yes, we ship anywhere. -
How much movement is the engine making when shifting back and forth ? Are worn engine mounts allowing enough movement so that a wiring harness or connector is losing continuity? Just a WAG. Perhaps if you could have someone sit in the driver's seat with their foot on the brake and shift back and forth while you observe and wiggle wires and connectors you might luck out and find the problem. FWIW YMMV
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Again, you might try the IAC diagnostic procedure which is thoroughly explained in the shop manual available at the above referenced site. If it tests out OK at least there will be one possible cause for the problem off the table. FWIW YMMV
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Just to add to the valuable resource provided by Steve, you might want to see what this site has to offer.......... http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry/index.html FWIW YMMV
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My bet is that Steve is right. That being said, you might want to revisit the IAC situation. There is a possibility, however remote, that the IAC has gone bad and all the cleaning in the world will not help. You can download the appropriate manual here.. http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry/index.html . The diagnostic procedure for the IAC should be in there. FWIW YMMV
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Your best bet is to go here.... http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry/index.html Download the manual then do the diagnostic checks for your car. FWIW YMMV
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Possibly the wiper switch but much more likely the wiper motor.
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Therein is the operative phrase. I'm sure the tow driver was the most well meaning guy on earth, but before I parted with heavy cash for another engine, I'd have the existing one looked over by a bona fide tech, the 237K on the odo not withstanding. FWIW YMMV
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Do a search on how to clean the IAC (idle air control). Better yet, go out and buy a Chilton or Haynes manual for about $20. It may be funky or need replacement. The fact that the Gumout helped a bit is a clue. Some may have gotten into the IAC and cleaned it a bit but not a lot. FWIW YMMV
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It's possible the idle problem is caused simply by it needing new plugs, wires, and other ignition components. Do you know when this maintenance was last done?
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My first thought would be a dirty or malfunctioning IAC (Idle Air Controller).
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It's a plug with a large metric hex slot on the bottom of the oil pan. It likely does not have a washer if it has not been down yet. Get one from Toyota. Torque to 36 ft/lbs when reinstalling.
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Theoretically the filter is good for the life of the car but with about 120K miles on it, I don't think you are overdoing things by replacing it. It should be down on the firewall on the driver's side with a line coming to it from the fuel rail, IIRC. You might want to hit the fittings with some penetrating oil a couple of times in advance then use the correct size line wrench. FWIW YMMV
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This job is not particularly intuitive. I just replaced the motor/regulator assembly on my wife's '93 driver's door. Fortunately, I have the factory manual which has good drawings. If you send me an email to DFBonnett@hotmail.com with your email, I'll scan the pages and send them out. The files would be too big to attach here. With this job, a picture is really worth a thousand words.