DFBonnett

Try RockAuto.com

Do a search for how to clean the IAC (idle air control) valve. It sounds like that is your problem now, especially since a general hosing out of the TB helped. There is a specific procedure on the 4 cyl. and I've seen it on many boards but didn't pay too much attention as I have the 6 which is different.

With 100K on it it sure may need a tune-up now. I'd replace the parts mentioned to establish a baseline then post back results.

How many miles since it has had new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter?

OP, As prof noted, the mount is not repairable.

That much of a leak seems like it would be due to pressure and not just seepage. Take a good look at the oil filter and the oil pressure switch.

Consider the possibility of a bad starter relay.

AFAIK, all vehicles from '96 on are OBD2.

I also have a '93 V6. You're not missing a fan. There is another cause for the overheating. You need to have it looked at by someone else. Your current mechanic seems unfamiliar with cooling system issues.

I did the LF motor/reg combo on our wagon 3 years ago. Got the cheap one on Ebay. Around $40, IIRC. Side by side, it was virtually identical the the OEM unit that came out. Works just fine. FWIW YMMV

Because of the severity of the overheating, you might want to have the heads checked by a competent machine shop to see if there is any warpage. Additionally, due to the nature of the problem and the amount of coolant introduced into the oil, you might want to go ahead and replace the main and rod bearings or at least pull one or two and inspect them for both bearing and journal damage. That crap on the pick-up screen may well be bearing material.

manual here.... http://www.camrystuff.com/

Use Dexron III which supersedes II. This is what your trans calls for. Pick up a couple of trans drain plug gaskets from the dealer. Drain and refill (prox 3 qts) at each oil change for the next few changes or until you are satisfied with the color of the fluid. This should clean up the fluid nicely. I wouldn't bother to try to flush it. Those lines are well rusted on now and if you break one trying to remove it you will not be a happy camper.

DL the manual here.. http://www.camrystuff.com/ then go over the diagnostics section carefully. You may find the answer there.

OP, First thing is to verify that the battery is good. A new battery exhibiting signs of failure, or even being DOA out of the box, is not unheard of. Verify that all of the connections are clean and tight. Verify that, if the battery is not maintenance free, that it does not need water. With the engine off, test the voltage across the battery terminals. It should read about 12.5 volts. If less consider a bad battery. With the engine running, again test across the terminals. The reading should be about 13.5 volts or more. If less post back with the result.

OP, At the end of the day, the is no substitute for cubic inches to make power. This is not an opinion subject to discussion or negotiation. It is axiomatic. If your car is a 4 cylinder, trade it for a V-6. You can putz around with all sorts of mods (other then pricey turbos or superchargers) on a 4 and the HP gains will be mostly in your mind. Even with pricey mods such as a TC or SC on a 4, a V6 will predominate. Power and torque are all about reciprocating mass.

This often points to failing plug wires. Are they the original wires? You might try putting tap water in a spray bottle and misting the wires with the engine running and in darkness. Look for spark arcing along the wires.

Try elsewhere. I'd think the bolt could be drilled or cut out with a torch and replaced with another bolt and a nut.

Is the fluid level up to spec? What is the condition/age of the fluid?

According to Gates, www.gates.com , you engine is non-interference and thus should have no valve damage. Their website has a pretty good write-up on the whole issue. FWIW YMMV

I've had good luck with www.rockauto.com . You might also try Ebay or http://www.toyota-parts-dealer.com .

Since the starting fluid had no effect, it is almost certainly an ignition problem. Download a manual from here... http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry. Diagnostics should be more comprehensive. Since the coil checks out, consider the igniter as a possibility.

Have you tried spraying some starting fluid into the intake? If it then tries to fire you have a fuel problem. Perhaps the new pump failed. This is not unknown to happen. If it doesn't try to fire you have an ignition problem.

http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry

I'd start by cleaning the throttle body and Idle Air Control valve (IAC).