jherentals

Everybody has their own favorite brands and setups. Check BestBuy and a few places and find what you like and listen to it. Jot down the model # and specs etc, then get on e-bay and find a seller w/ a good/great reputation and the same item will probably be a lot less expensive. BestBuy will normally install whether you bought it from them or not once you get the system. You may save some bucks if you wait for the after Xmas sales, but it may not be worth the wait if you want to go ahead and get it now. Happy shopping !

It's just a matter of physics. Your tailpipe is right under the rear window and driivng creates a vacuum that sucks the exhaust right in thru the rear window. One suggestion would be to have a shop like Car-X or Midas modify your tailpipe and send the exhaust out toward the side behind the rear wheel instead of under your rear bumpter. Hopefully, redirecting the exhaust gas may keep it out of your rear window. No guarantees but it's just an idea. Check w/ anyone who has a 96-02 4-Runner. I believe those years had the exhaust routed out to passenger side rear and not right under the bumper. Good luck. :)

Hi, make sure you are not removing or unplugging any Mass Air Sensor. Your car will not run without it. It's an electronic contraption which is normally built into the airtube between the air cleaner and the throttle body. To know what it looks like, go to www.autopartswarehouse.com and plug in your year make and model and look for "intake sensor" and you will see a pic of it. It meters all the air that goes into your engine, and if you bypass it, your car will not run since the computer would not be getting any info to run the car. A CAI is fine but you cannot do without that particular sensor. I've been there. Good luck, attached pic for you here

Hey congrats, the 94 Camry is a great car! I have one also and love it! Mine has the 4 cylinder and turned 247,000 miles on a replaced engine and runs and looks great. I do have some advice for you (from experience). If you want a bit more power and sound, get on E-bay. Find a less expensive "cold air intake". Do not pay up for one since they're all the same. You should find one under twenty bucks cuz they're just an aluminum tube and filter. No-name brand is best since you pay for "name brands". Slap that on. Double check the engine mounts issue. I go to Car X where I trust the guy, but with an older car you will need a decent mechanic (not a Toyota dealer) who won't screw you over. I replaced 2 engine mounts on mine. They're basically big fat expensive rubber bands that brace the engine. If you do NOT replace the engine mounts, the vibration can rattle your drive train, seals, and exhaust and accelerate wearing it all out. Bite the bullet and replace the engine mounts, but shop around before you find yourself at the mercy of a mechanic with your car torn apart. A few phone calls here is worth it's weight in gold. Do NOT put any "CHIP" on your car. It will make the "check engine" light come on and drive you crazy. Your O2 sensor controls the air-fuel mix, so if it thinks a chip is making your car run richer, the sensor will just compensate for it, so leave it alone. Don't use any of these "leaf blower" turbo's either, they are junk. You can make the exhaust more throaty w/ 2 1/2 inch pipes behind the converter and a magnaflow rear muffler. You can delete the resonator and it will sound awesome, definitely a lot deeper. As far as speakers and head-unit, double check the size you need. I think Circuit City (www.circuitcity.com) has a fitment guide. Get some decent Alpine speakers and a AM/FM/CD head unit on e-bay and slap them in. You may want to do a decent window tint job if it hasn't already been done, too. You've got a great car but don't go bonkers on the engine unless you want the Check Engine Light to be part of your life. Good luck! :) jhe.rentals@yahoo.com

There is a pretty good website for aftermarket hotrod stuff for Toyota. I recently saw they had some type of sensor modifier which turns off the speed limiter. You just wire it into the electronics and its done. You can also turn off the sensor for your cat converter, and thereby rip it out too, and not have that annoying light come on, on your dash. I finally just got rid of the pesky Check Engine light altogether so I would not be reminded about the missing or altered emission controls on my 4 cars. Lol. Not sure how fast you wanna go, but I also can refer you to a really good orthopedic surgeon. He did a great job rebuilding my femur (twice). The website is www.urdusa.com Try checking out their electronics for the speed limit eliminator. Happy speeding !

Hi, I know that excessive black smoke means the car runs too rich. The O2 sensors are a non-issue, and the smoking is a bit different. My 96 4Runner V6 starts and runs great, no smoke etc. But after driving it a while, in 100 degree August heat in particular, and when it idles a while , it suddenly starts billowing black/grey smoke. It's not pure black but not white either, I'd say a dark grey smoke. After driving a while, it normally corrects itself, but comes back intermittently. The SUV "runs" great, even when smoking, but I know the smoke is bad and indicative of a problem. The only info from the check engine light is "system lean bank 1". One other "clue" is that the TRD Supercharger (big mistake) was put on a few months ago. Runs pretty strong but has the typical probs that make you have to run out and shell out for the "URD upgrade" (jeeez...what a nightmare). The symptoms tying into the URD "upgrade" are intermittent ping on heavier acceleration (seldom done at $3.30 a gallon for "premium" gas) and some other drivability issues w/ the supercharger. I am tempted to rip the supercharger out and go back to the old fashioned intake manifold, but I am concerned about the smoking problem remaining. Anyway, my concern is the smoking exhaust and not the drivability with the TRD supercharger. I can fix the supercharger prob either with URD 's product or ripping the supercharger out.........again "it's all about the smoking". Any feedback, esp from anyone who's experienced this AND TRD probs, is much, much appreciated. Thanks ! :) Jim Kansas City

CASE CLOSED AND A HAPPY ENDING !! Thank you. This finally had a happy ending in the last 2 or 3 days. Today is August 4, 2006. First, I apologized to the engine seller because he was right. JDM does make a great product and it's totally cool to swap the 2.0 for the 2.2 engine, no prob at all. IN fact it gets better mileage. HERE IS WHAT HAPPENED...After repeated trips to the mechanic and even buying an e-bay replacement ECU, which never had to be installed, we had the hood open and decided to go through every sensor that effects engine performance. O2's were new within 2 weeks, temp sensor was replaced w/ new engine 2 months ago, EGR was tweeked to make sure it was connected right. THEN we noticed the MAP sensor. It looked fine at first, but closer examination showed the vac line UNDERNEATH it was missing or not installed. He dug and found the line which was somehow hooked up to something else. He juggled a few vac lines and hooked up the MAP sensor right. I started the car and drove it a few miles. Came home and NO SMOKE from tailpipe. Also the engine was not making that gurgling flooded sound when driving. I KNEW this was the fix! He apologized profusely (another issue...I accept the apology and he's a super nice guy...but I spent tons of $$ for this oversight...burned up the converter when it was rich for 2 months, an extra tune up within 60 days of new engine, new O2's in 60 days of first O2's...towing...and driving the car at (then) 10 mpg when it should be 30ish.....Will deal with those $$ issues later, this is all news right now..).. Anyway....I had also wanted headers on the Camry. Put them on the next day now that drivability was solved. Car sounds awesome! Not too loud but a subtle deep sound. Not like a whiney coffee can muffler everyone is buying, but a really deep nice sound. Anyway...I gassed up the car, set the trip odo to zero took it on a long drive with the "fixed" MAP sensor and new headers. The EPA rates the car at 28 highway. It now gets 33 mpg highway!! I could not believe it! The car is beyond perfect, runs awesome and then some, sounds deep but not loud, and the ECU and the 2.0 JDM engine click and work together "in perfect harmony". The case is closed. I apologized to the JDM engine seller and at some point will talk to the mechanic about the excess funds I spent when they should have discovered the MAP sensor disconnect long ago, but that's an argument for another day. I am just totally enthused to have my car back, running "too good to be true", sounding great and getting 5 mpg better than the EPA ever said it would get! "Oh what a feeling!" haha :) PS IF anyone ever wants headers for a 94 4 Cylinder, they are available. Here is info. They are designed for the Celica but they do fit (same engine) but need the downpipe modified and welded just a tad for perfect fit. See below Pro.Racing Your one-stop for performace parts http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...bayphotohosting Brand New 4-1 Chrome Racing Header for 94-99 Toyota Celica GT 2.2L, 5SFE Engine Features Cat-less Design for Pure Racing (not for emission) Mirror-Like Chrome Finish 10~15 Horsepower Increase Pore Diameter 1/5", Collector Diameter 2-1/4", Flange Thickness 3/8" Super Light Weight Mandrel-Bent Tubing for maximum air flow Durable Thick CNC Flange Direct Bolt on O2 Sensor Insertion Gaskets Included

IN ALL FAIRNESS, HERE IS THE RESPONSE FROM THE ENGINE SELLER. JUST BE CAREFUL AND DO NOT BUY A JDM ENGINE EVER. STICK WITH EXACT SIZE REPLACEMENT. PENNIES SAVED THRU JDM WILL COST BIG DOLLARS IN DIAGNOSTICS AND MORE......... Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2006 23:49:25 -0600 From: "Bob" <bob@enginesus.com> View Contact Details Add Mobile Alert To: "James H. Edwards" <jhe.rentals@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: TOYOTA JUNK ENGINE Item #8069146841 Jim: We sell alot of these engines. And no one has had any problem besides you. We did not misrepresent anything. Nobody ever replaces the computer. It is not necessary unless defective. Same goes for any other part. If I had my car in a shop that had no clue what was wrong, I'd bring it to another shop. All of the electronics should be from your old engine. The fuel control system on your 2.2 is totally compatable with the 2.0 engine we sent you. If it was not, everyone that we ship this engine to would have the same problem, and none of them do. I'd be happy to talk with you again and try to sort the problem. Thanks, Bob 970 527-5560 AND HERE IS MY REPLY TO HIM..........Bob Thanks for the reply this time and the re-assurance about the existing ecu. The prob has to be electrical in nature. Everything has been replaced, several items more than once. The car actually "runs" very well........except for the poor MPG and over-powering black rich smoke coming from the exhaust. I thought a tune up (yesterday) with the smaller 2.0 injectors and 2 new O2 sensors would solve this, but no. I don't know what else to do. I am absolutely sick at the money I have spent. It's not advisable to spend more money on this car, as everything is a crap-shoot. Like I said, the 2 largest Toyota dealers refuse to even look at this car, and anyone having knowledge of the 2.0 vs. 2.2 engine is leery about getting involved, esp after discussing everything we've done......O2's, injectors, 2 tune ups, etc etc. There are no vacuum leaks and everything is as it should be. Sensors such as MAP and IAT are good, yet I get 15 mpg on the highway (last night after a 115 mile test drive). Replacing my mechanic is not an option. I doubt many mechanics would now touch the car, and given that it has no cat-converter probably would make them even more leery, or force me to buy one, only to have it burn up in a few hundred miles like the first one did. (thats it other than some friendly closing comments......)

I got an immediate (next morning) e-mail reply. He swears adamantly that my 2.2 computer WILL and DOES work with the JDM 2.0. I say 15 mpg and billowing black smoke disagree. The mechanic also believes its the computer incompatability. I am awaiting the ECU for the Corolla. This is logical b/c the ebay computer for the corolla is for the same year toyota, so it has the same computer box/case and similar emissions standards and technology. The 1.8 litre corolla computer "might" adjust and be ok w/ the JDM 2.0 engine. Thats my theory. On the other hand.......it could short out everything and all hell could break loose. At this point, I don't care. Like I said in another post , my 92 Toyota Land Cruiser which weighs about 5,500 pounds, is the most fuel efficient vehicle I have now. It at least gets around 14 mpg but thats about what it's rated at..... I can't believe this. If there were some simple sensor that could be replaced to fix this mess, it would have been discovered. The Camry drives great..in fact.....never better...... The black smoke will burn up the plugs and cause problems so I really can't let it run like this long term. Toyota--"Oh what a feeling!" Yeah right in my debit card! lol

HORRIBLE CAMRY GAS MILEAGE DUE TO JDM ENGINE, COPY OF E-MAIL TO ENGINE SELLER........ I did not expect you to write or continue to correspond from my last e-mail. I will not continue to pester you, but I thought you should at least know the current status of this "engine swap" with the "JDM" engine 2.0 replacing the 2.2 in my Toyota Camry... I have spent several thousand dollars on this replacement engine between the engine itself, installation, and lots of trial and error approaches to resolving the excessive rich fuel burning and heavy black smoke from the exhaust. I have not decided if I am going to get an attorney as a result of the misrepresentation and damages I have incurred, and continue to incur. Here are a few tidbits of info: Since the day the engine was installed and I took the car home, it has billowed large volumes of black smoke from the exhaust. The Camry is rated at 28 miles per gallon on highway but now gets about 15 All maintenance and tune up items have been done, some of them twice. The fuel injectors were replaced twice. Once with 2.2 the second time with 2.0. No formal advice as to which injectors to use was ever provided. Labor was paid twice for each set of injectors, aprox 3 hours each time, or 6 hours total at $85 per hour plus tax, shop fees etc. The COMPUTER was also replaced, again more labor $$. The 02 sensors and spark plugs have been replaced twice. Once when the "new" engine went in, and again on July 25 since they were so fouled from running so rich. The car continues to billow smoke like a coal mine with no known reason or "codes" that show up. The computers (both) think everything is hunky-dory. The car is being driven illegally because it has no functioning catalytic converter. The cat burned up several weeks ago, causing the car to have to be towed. The cat was cut off and replaced with straight pipe until the engine prob can be resolved. Fortunately they do not smog test in Kansas. The distributor, a very expensive electonics item, was replaced too, but that may not have been related to the engine failure / drivability / fuel problems. I would think you'd want to have communicated or taken some kind of "give a ****" position, since you make it your business to sell these wonderful JDM engines which you assure the buyer that "they just hookup to the existing computer".......yeah right... I have ordered another ECU, the third one I think now. This one will be for a Toyota Corolla because they use a 1.6 or 1.8 engine, so maybe one of those computers will force this existing set up I have to tone down and calibrate fuel delivery for the smaller engine. Toyota never sold the 2.0 in the US during the 94 model year, so there really is no existing application I can use. It's total guess-work. And, remember, the 2 largest Toyota dealers in KC both advised me, that with my exisitng "mods" (funky engine size you sold) that I am "on my own, and good luck." Again I don't expect a reply because you don't give a ****. However, you may want to advise your customers that there is a compatability problem on some applications such as this one. I guarantee you'll be sued someday by someone if you don't. I have not decided what further actions I intend to take at this point, but I expect my Camy to get the 23 city / 28 highway miles per gallon, or something reasonably close to it's original specs. I also expect it to be able to support a functional catalytic converter so it can be legally sold at some point. This car is absolutely RUINED in the condition it's in now. It gets about half the gas mileage it's supposed to get, has no converter and cannot have one because it would melt (again), smokes like the World Trade Center on 9/11, and it appears there is no solution for these problems..........all the while I pay for countless "guess work" from the mechanic......sensors, injector sizes and labor, etc etc and I get the pleasure of paying $3/gallon for gas when I should be getting twice the mileage I am getting now. I am furious and getting angrier by the minute at this piece of **** engine that resides in my car that you sold me, which seems to have no possible resolution. You should hope that the "Corolla" ECU helps to tone down the fuel problem.

I have a 94 Toyota Camry LE which had the 2.2 Litre 4 cylinder 5sfe engine. The engine blew due to high miles and I bought on ebay a "JDM" engine which is the 3sfe ......a 2.0 litre which I was assured would work as its the same block etc. I have had fuel probs, and replaced lots of parts including fuel injecotrs, plugs, O2's , distributor and today, the ECU with a salvage yard one. The engine dumps out tons of heavy black rich smoke and it burned up the cat-converter. Motor gets 10 MPG in a CAMRY city and 15 hwy. It should get mid to upper 20's. I am a middle age guy and do not lead foot. My mechanic says the problem is the ECU since its designed for a 2.2 engine and it's flooding out the smaller 2.0 Litre JDM (Junky Dumped Motors is what JDM should stand for) This is just a theory but makes sense as all else has been replaced or addressed. SO MY QUESTION IS: Would an ECU for the same year Toyota, like a Corolla, work since it has smaller engine? Toyota did not sell the 2.0 in USA in 94 so there is no readily available ECU. The closest match would be the 1.6 or 1.8 designed for the 94 Corolla. What should I do? I need to make the JDM 2.0 Litre work, but the exisitng setup is ruininng the car and already caused a converter fire (rich buildup of fuel/garbage in converter). Please help or advise with some kind of direction. I live in KC and the 2 largest Toyota dealers said that with the “mods” I have done (engine swap) that I am "on my own, and good luck". They do not want to even look at the car. I need a cheap and immediate fix.

I have a 94 Toyota Camry LE which had the 2.2 Litre 4 cylinder 5sfe engine. The engine blew due to high miles and I bought on ebay a "JDM" engine which is the 3sfe ......a 2.0 litre which I was assured would work as its the same block etc. I have had fuel probs, and replaced lots of parts including fuel injecotrs, plugs, O2's , distributor and today, the ECU with a salvage yard one. The engine dumps out tons of heavy black rich smoke and it burned up the cat-converter. Motor gets 10 MPG in a CAMRY city and 15 hwy. It should get mid to upper 20's. I am a middle age guy and do not lead foot. My mechanic says the problem is the ECU since its designed for a 2.2 engine and it's flooding out the smaller 2.0 Litre JDM (Junky Dumped Motors is what JDM should stand for) This is just a theory but makes sense as all else has been replaced or addressed. SO MY QUESTION IS: Would an ECU for the same year Toyota, like a Corolla, work since it has smaller engine? Toyota did not sell the 2.0 in USA in 94 so there is no readily available ECU. The closest match would be the 1.6 or 1.8 designed for the 94 Corolla. What should I do? I need to make the JDM 2.0 Litre work, but the exisitng setup is ruininng the car and already caused a converter fire (rich buildup of fuel/garbage in converter). Please help or advise with some kind of direction. I live in KC and the 2 largest Toyota dealers said that with the “mods” I have done (engine swap) that I am "on my own, and good luck". They do not want to even look at the car. I need a cheap and immediate fix.

Here's my latest as of June 30, 2006. My 94 Camy w/ 237k miles finally "blew" the engine about a month ago, it threw a rod or whatever and I could not spend more money on that old engine with those miles. I ended up buying.....compliments of e-bay....a "JDM" engine. This is a big business for people to import low mileage Japanese engines of all makes to the U.S. for resale. They typically have low miles and can be bought pretty cheap.......... Anyway, the JDM sellers all swear that they're compatable, but you do have to switch out the old intake and exhaust manifolds etc so all the sensors and computer hook-ups work right. One main difference is the "import" JDM engine is actually a 2.0 litre, being sold to replace the 2.2 Litre, and all the sellers swear it's a simple swap............ maybe, maybe not....... I had my mech switch out the new JDM engine and the old Camry runs great, except for one small but major issue. It now gets about 10 MPG. My old Land Cruiser is more fuel efficient than my Camry now!! We switched the O2 sensors, tuned the new engine w/ plugs wires etc etc, made sure it had new oil, everything was by the book. Long story short, I can't...at this time....get it to lean out. It is dumping huge amounts of rich black smoke out the exhaust and burning up fuel fast at 10 to 12 MPG. JDM rep assures the computer is compatable w/the little 2.0 Litre. The mech says the diagnosis is not known cuz the computer shows "no signal to the code reader" so there is no way to pull codes. To lean out the car could take anything, expensive injectors, sensors, computer replacement, anything. $$ What a nightmare huh? I live in KC and the 2 biggest Toyota dealers said "With those non factory engine mods, you're on your own and good luck!!" (Superior Toyota and Olathe Toyota). The JDM rep is going to call the mech and discuss this, and he says there should be an over-ride screw to physically lean out the car. Anyway the car is really not drivable at 12 mpg and the huge black rich smoke that comes out. When you stop at a light you get an overpowering smell of gas and exhaust fumes. I also will get it checked for exhaust leaks and fuel leaks. I work in insurance and the car is a fire hazard running that rich, not to mention the emmissions. Anyway if any of you folks know about or have used JDM engines or been thru this please let me know. My direct e-mail is jhe.rentals@yahoo.com or post here and I'll get a copy. Those old Toyota ads of "Oh what a feeling" must be referring to lininng the mechanic's pockets. I dunno why I liked the Camry, it is a beautiful car and fun to drive but I have been thru hell on finances trying to make it right. Guess I'll drive my fuel-efficient Land Cruiser til I can figure out the deal on the Camry lol

Thanks :) I thought and hoped from the reputation that a Toyota would "run forever" but obviously not....Anyway I did find a "power-seller" on ebay w/ 100% positive feedback and he deals w/ used Japanese engines primarily. I guess there's a huge market in Japan where they recycle many late model cars w/ low mileage and ship many of them here to the US. Long story short, I found and am buying a used engine from him, they estimate all their engines have aprox 30,000 miles based on the Japanese drivers and their driving histories etc.... Anyway it's supposed to be a direct replacement so we'll see what happens. The price was definitely right, about 425 plus about 150 to ship it to KS. Installation will be up there, but hopefully it will last and run a long time. It's not so much now that I love the car......I mean it is beautiful and looks great, but I am pretty well buried in it $$, so hopefully this will fix it and keep it on the road a long time. Thanks for writing ! :)

Thanks, I am pretty well buried in the car anyway at this point. I did find an e-bay seller that will sell a used engine w/ 40k on it w/ warranty for about 450 $$, however there are some big bucks to ship it, and Car-X says about 800 to install, about 11 hours or so...... I did start the old engine today and it actually idles ok, if you give it any gas, there is a ticking metallic sound like maybe a valve or lifter etc. I dunno..... I am definitely parking it for a while til I can recover $$