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Toyota Owners Club

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Posts posted by Toyota Owners Club

  1. I would disconnect the auxiliary belt(s) and see if the noise disappears.

    Sometimes, rattling noises can be produced by the crankshaft pulley when it's breaking up and when no load is taken off it the noise then disappears.

    Also, Alternator pulleys (if the over-running type can also rattle but by taking the belt off then if the noise disappears then look there as well

  2. Most gear knobs nowadays are pressed on but can be awkward to remove....I usually grip it with one hand and then hit the underside of the gripping hand with my other hand and hey presto!

    Just watch out that you don't look over it at the time and hit yourself in the face....been there!

  3. Hi Laduca...welcome to the Forum

    The only place I can think to go to now is the ABS modulator. I know you said the ABS works fine which is okay but if there is any air locked in the ABS system then it will generally stay in there unless bled out.

    My advice would be to invoke the ABS as much as you can before bleeding it through and the next bit gets a little bit messy so put plenty of rag underneath and carry out with a cold engine, etc as Brake Fluid is highly flammable.

    Get someone to pump the brakes while you crack off each pipe connection to the block in turn. You should see any air being expelled almost immediately if its in there.

    Let us know how you get on with it.

    Cheers,  Trevor

  4. Hi Smitty...welcome to the Forum

    Sorry, haven't got any data to set the switch up but I would imagine that like a lot of pedal switches, if you load it up and install it and then back it off until it switches off (should be able to hear it if its a plunger type switch. Probably better doing it this way as opposed to winding it in a bit at a time.

    Let us know how you get on with it

    Cheers,   Trevor

  5. Hi Stuart....welcome to the Forum

    If it's done 145k miles and all you've done is the oil and filter then you must be doing something right.

    Generally, when it comes to servicing a car, most of it is something you can do on the floor and with individual wheels raised and supported one at a time...otherwise, it is just a case of inspecting systems and components for wear and tear and replacing serviceable items and fluids periodically.

    Only other thing to consider is any service update downloads to the electronic systems and also recall items which won't occur outside of the dealer network.

    Cheers,  Trevor

  6. Hi...welcome to the Forum

    It sounds like it could be a Fuel Vapour cannister (EVAP system) so if you are getting a smell of fuel and its affecting the idle speed then chances are that is what it is

    Worth dropping into a garage to confirm and let us know what you find

    Cheers,   Trevor

  7. Which engine does your car have?

    If it is the V6 then it will be the rear bank (transverse mounted) if conventionally mounted then it will be the cylinder nearest to the front (slightly staggered banks)

  8. Hi...welcome to the club

    It does sound as though the fluid is as a result of being overfilled, but wonder why it was in the first place....either incorrectly filled or overfilled to compensate for a leak?

    It is worth popping into a garage for an inspection as to where the fluid is leaking from and why.

    Also, worth noting that some automatic transmissions need to be placed into 'Drive' with the engine running at idle to correctly check the level. Follow instructions in the handbook for correct procedure.

    Cheers,  Trevor

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