stevelaw
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Posts posted by stevelaw
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Ye who hail from Suffolk County has done some good troubleshooting. Welcome to the board. How many times did you take it to the dealership?
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Of course the dealer is of no help---he's waiting for your warranty to expire. Time to go up the food chain to regional and let us know what turns out for you.
NV010R-03: Body - Front Door Glass Wind Noise....I see it referenced on the net but have no details. Anyone who has this TSB or has had it performed, please let me know the details. The dealer is of no help.....Re: prior post:
The vibration in question comes from either where the drivers window seeds itself into the seal (on the top or back side or both) OR from where the seal itself seeds itself into the door frame. It will occur over bumps and at high speeds and sounds like a vibration, similar to wind noise but worse. If I apply outward pressure to the window while driving, the noise stops. If I lower the window just a click is becomes quieter. This morning I pulled the upper and back side seal out of the door frame (this is where the upper window seeds itself) and pushed some felt in. It got better but I have done this before and it eventually comes back.
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There used to be a place called ace auto grill. They might have it.
Hello Everyone,Does anyone know where I can find a custom billet grill (not mesh or glued chrome) to fit my 2003 Solara? (Note this is for a 2003, not the new 2004 model).
Thanks for any help you can provide.
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I would just replace the coolant temperature switch for now---there is juice running to the cooling fan, but it is coming on to some degree.
As you say, the switch is threaded into a fitting that feeds the upper radiator hose into the intake manifold. I take it this is the coolant temperature sensor.
What is the switch down in the lower radiator hose fitting? Is it the fan switch? Should I replace it, too?
Thanks.
OD
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Yes. Exactly. They do it down here. They also change batteries for free here (you just pay for the battery).
Welcome from the land of Mystic Seaport.
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You are having electrical problems. I had a little bit of electrical problems with my 1994, which had almost 150K on it. And it took a hurricaine to kill that car. I think you will get at least another 50K out of your car. Start using a good oil, like a semi synthetic. Like Mobil Drive Clean 7500 or 5000.
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LeighCM is right. Gas is expensive right now---get the best stoichiometry you can.
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3250 sound right to you?
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What part of the USA are you in? Most Auto Zone and Advance Auto Parts will pull a code for you for free. But they are not always right. If you get it done by two seperate locations you will be able to get it right much of the time.
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I am totally familiar with this car.
1. NV00203 deals with cracking sounds from the windshield. Are you having any of this?
2. Are you having any steering wheel squeaks?
3. I'll look into the other TSB.
Hi. I hope I am posting in the appropriate place. I have a 2002 Camry LE automatic 4cylinder purchased new 3 years ago. It has performed flawlessly sans rattles, creaks and vibrations. The dealer has (to a degree) quited several of these. They added some felt around the radio to quiet a vibration from there; that one was 90% successfull. They added some felt around the passenger dash speaker; that one was successfull for summer months, I wedge a stuffed animal in between the speaker grill and windshield to quiet it in the winter. They replaced the winshield cowl; that eliminated aboyt 75% of the noise from there. Each oil change they tephlon all door seals; that quiets ticks an pops for a few weeks anyway. They have been unable to do anything about the seat belt tensioner rattle/vibration...it is there maybe 50% of the time.The number one offender though is at ears height and appears to come from the weather strip that the window seeds itself in to at the top of the drivers door. All along they said the best they could do was to lube it. It has gotten progressively worse. It sound like cross between a vibration and rattle. You hear it over bumps and at high speeds. At this point they say it would no be covered anyway since the car has over 3 years on it. (and my platinum plus warranty does not cover it) I argue that it has been there, getting worse since day one. Anyway, I have wedged some felt in all areas and at times it does get quieter but I have been unable to locate the exact offending spots. I think it is where the seal goes up into the door frame. Anyway, I heard there is a TSB: # NV01003 that deals with door rattles and wind noise. My dealer says it does not apply to my car and does not provide the details...of course the cowl replacement was not for my car either....it was eventually replaced though.
Does anyone have any details on this TSB or better yet a proven fix to this annoying issue? THANKS!
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I wonder if anyone else knows the NOT dirty little secret people without (or fake) cat converters can do to pass an emissions check. In the South, what people are doing--- is they wait until the check month comes up. They drive the car until it has only 1 or 2 gallons of gas in it. Then they go to Home Depot and buy a gallon can of denatured alcohol and a small can of acetone. Then they fill up a huge 5 gallon or more gas can with premium gas and stash it in the trunk. While the car is still hot and running, they put the alcohol and acetone in the gas tank. Then they drive it for 10 miles to get the alcohol into the engine. So they are running on 50% alcohol and the car runs like a 2 legged dog......but they pass emissions. Immediatley after passing, they pull into the nearest parking lot and pour that big can of golden dinosaur juice into the tank and drive happily every after. Until next year.
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I am going to research this to see if there are any legal issues here.
yeah, i think i have heard of roadside checks in California..
can anyone confirm?
where is lexusORtoyota from?
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I have noticed that your info request has sit dormant for a month. The reason for this is that tire/wheel alignment folks are sometimes artisans in themselves. You really are going to have to talk to a tire shop about this. Do not entertain any conversation that ends with....."But if you let me do it right now, I'll only charge you...". He'll send you on your way with no warranty. Try to talk to 2 shops at least.
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How many miles are on it? And when is the last time the alternator was checked?
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The diagram that I have for your Camry is the same as his Camry. So the colors are the same as I see them.
While questioning a witness on cross examination, never ask a question you don't already know the answer to, but..........are you SURE it's the JBL system? what does the head unit look like? Someone else asked me this some time back and it turned out that they didn't know the just-turned-off-lease Camry they bought had an aftermarket head unit in it. And it didn't have a brand name on it so they didn't know it.
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Welcome to the club. You will meet a lot of nice people here who come to exchange ideas, diagnose problems, improve performance, and show off the new set of wheels.
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The Switch you see by the upper radiator hose...is it actually mounted into the intake manifold? That would be your coolant temperature sensor. From what you say, it may be bad. You should be able to get one for $20 bucks.
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1. Run a vacum check. 2. Replace cap, rotor, and perhaps spark plugs and wires if it has been a while. 3. Check idle speed. 4. When is the last time the fuel filter was replaced?
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How long ago was this done? Did they give the strut dampers a really good look?
And when were the tires last rotated?
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You say the new O2 sensor was a screw in type, right? You want to use anti-sieze compound so that the sensor does not get stuck to the exhaust header when that day comes in the future when it goes bad and you have to replace it. Otherwise you may have stripped threads, a damaged header, etc. Theere are a few different types of this compound, but the good type contains copper in it. Copper conducts electricity. You may presently have a ground problem with the new O2 sensor. I would take the cable off of the battery, pull the fuse, unscrew the sensor, reinstall it with copper compound, tighten it up, make sure it's tight, then put everything back together and drive it on the highway long enough for the ECU to reset itself.
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ABSOLUTLEY buy a Corolla. You will be very happy with the reliability of the car. I had a 1994 Corolla LX. The only thing that ever went wrong with it was when the radiator sprung a leak. I replaced it and kept driving it until it had over 148,000 miles on it. It took Hurricaine Ivan to kill the Corolla. Which it did with water over three feet deep in the middle of the road.
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Have you tried going to www.sharpcar.com? It's a new sit that competes with edmunds.com but without the extensive tech info/reviews.
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This has been going on forever. The best example has to be GM. I mean, why would I sell someone a Chevy Monte Carlo when I can sell then a Chevy Monte Carlo AND a Buick Regal AND an Oldsmobile Cutlass AND a Pontiac Grand Prix? And Big Blue does it too. Why sell someone a Ford Crown Vickie when I can sell them that AND a Mercury Marquis AND a Lincoln? So Tokyo is no different. They can sell me a Toyota and a Lexus.
Japan In The Passing Lane. Great book.
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Well I did pick up a bit of a mileage gain with Tornado, but it also may be that I am using it with the K&N air filter. So I did both.
When you removed the cat converter, was there another O2 sensor down there? I have not worked on that year Corolla in some time. And what kind of anti-sieze compound did you use on the front sensor with the new header?
Changing shift light in 95 Corolla
in Corolla Club
Posted
The only way you are going to get better directions to do that is to get I believe it is volume 2 of the factory service manual. I had that manual.