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Everything posted by stevelaw

  1. I may have it in PDF on CDROM. I will look for it as soon as I get settled back in.
  2. Thanks again for posting that link to the board.
  3. If you are using the braided steel brake lines that are lined with PTFE, as some of them are, they are compatible with all brake fluids. I use Valvoline Synpower DOT 3/4. It has a high boiling point.
  4. 1 - Are they "correct" about the front brake rotors and pads needing replacement? 2 - Are they correct about the rear brake drum needing replacement ? You know, without pysically seeing the rotors, I can't tell if they need to be replaced, but at that mileage? Sounds odd to me. As for the rear drum, I doubt that it can't be turned and used. Like fidgits said, get another opinion.
  5. How many miles are on it? And is it the proginal carburator on it?
  6. Whoa--you mean it hasn't been changed yet? Have you looked at it lately? The Sienna has 100k with original antifreeze. John
  7. Is that the oil you got the analysis done on?
  8. Yeah, but one of those years, I can't remember, there is a different biscuit/engine mount. But I suppose he'd just buy it at a junkyard and then make the swap.
  9. Thanks, Humanoid. Got my weekend project cut out for me.
  10. I still can't believe it blew a rod. You'd pretty badly have to abuse that motor.
  11. You're not under any warranty at this time, are you? I think the chemistry of the 2 technologies are similar, but if they are not and you try to use the Zerex, you'd probable be best to flush all of the old coolant out totally.
  12. Mind telling me who does oil anaylsis? I'd like to see what a 500 mile result would look like with the Mobil Drive Clean 7500.
  13. Way to go. Love to see a job well done by a do it yourselfer.
  14. Personally, I never wait more than 3000 miles for a total oil/filter change. And I am still using the Mobil Drive Clean 7500. I get good mileage with it, so you might do better with the Mobil 1 super synthetic. But I am hesitant to use ANY oil for more than 3000 miles. I think Humanoid has a good idea with 2 filter changes, but I don't do it. I also don't know about the BP oil. How long have they been making a synthetic? I used to use Nitrex sometimes.
  15. I think you can do it without taking the panel off...but if you were to do it yourself, there is a door fastener removal tool you can get at any auto parts store for less than 10 bucks. I have also removed the fasteners with a "pickle fork" (ball joint tool). They are small plastic push-in anchors that run around the perimiter of the door panel. Probably 8 or 10 of them. They are very easy to remove.
  16. Yeah, but he also might have gotten H2O in the distributor cap. And that cap might have a lot of miles on it, so that's another issue, H2O or not. Fuel filter or fuel pump, possibly? ...if so, the engine wash would be just a coincidence...
  17. I think LeighCm is right, that year has full size spares. Funny though, your situation has to be the only one where someone actually would actually have preferred a donut tire in the trunk.
  18. I'm going to go with a new short block for *GULP* $4200. Hmmm. Why? Did the rod put a hole in the block?
  19. stevelaw


    DTC P1705 Direct Clutch Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction is the code you have. This sensor detects the rotation speed and compares it with the speed sensor. You might have a problem with the wiring harness going to the sensor, and not the sensor itself--the sensor itself might not be bad.
  20. Once you get inside that door panel, look to see if there are any spacers/washers/bolts/other hardware down in the bottom of the door. Sounds like something that holds the track to the mounting points on the door has come loose---or off. Happened to my 1994 Corolla--the screw that held the track to the door came loose, this made the window misalign with the track, this made the window then come off of the track.
  21. Well, if you can't find a filter for it, and I doubt another cabin air filter would fit it unless you actually took the filter to the parts store and came up with a match, at least you could blow the existing filter out with compressed air.
  22. We have several dealers here in Georgia who sell the unichip. I have not yet had an opportunity to meet & talk anyone using the unichip, but it seems that this chip has a better stoichiometry ratio than previous chips. Looks like it's too new of a chip to determine if it's worth it.
  23. Well, of course, I like synthetic/semi-synthetic oil. Mobil drive clean 7500. But fuel addititives do not seem to have a proven track record.
  24. With gas prices as high as they are right now, the opportunity is more ripe than ever for unsubstantiated claims about fuel additives to spew forth. I am surprised, frankly, that 100 new gasoline treatment/additive companies have not arisen in the last year or so. A lot of fuel additives that claim to increase mileage are comprised of toluene, methyl ethyl ketone, alcohol, etc., which you can buy at home depot cheaper by the quart. But as always, put the lawyer hat on, and to more closely examine how much of a problem the gas additive unsubstantiated claim problem goes, see the following link: http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/09/shellcastrol.htm
  25. Yeah, and if he's in the southeast, Advance auto parts will pull it for free as well. Do you need to pull just one code? If so, you can get that done for free at places like AutoZone.
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