stevelaw
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Posts posted by stevelaw
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I managed to find some internet literature, not from Toy, that also says the power curve maximizes at around 7600 rpm. But anyone who has ever built engines knows that to get that much rpms one has to use roller cams with solid lifters, all kinds of measures to prevent valve float. I don't see Toy advising people to pull 8 grand.
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I HAVE TWO TSBs THAT MAY HELP--give me an email address to send them to. Physical diagrams.
:!:
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I :!: HAVE TSB diagrams. What year Camry?
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JEFF: I GOT IT--IT'S NINE PAGES LONG. Give me an email address to send the pages to. I also just got a hold of a lot of other TSB diagrams.
:!: :!: :!:
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I am curious: did you get that redline spec from writeups or from Toy?
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Have you thought about using Valvoline Synpower full synthetic brake fluid when changing the lines? I just flushed out my lines today and refilled with the Synpower. It has a boilingpoint of over 500 degree---far higher than DOT 3 and DOT4 standards require. I will keepeveryone posted as to how the brakes feel over the next couple of days. Hey--for $4 it couldn't hurt.
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I have the check engine light on continuously with trouble code P0773. It resets but comes back on after some driving. Automatic shifting from first to second seems a bit rough at times especially when cold and can also slip at times. I understand that this solenoid in inside the tranny pan. How difficult is it to remove and replace the solenoid (there are pipes obstructing them?) and where can I purchase this at a reasonable price besides the expensive dealer? Thank you very much.
What year Camry is it? Which tranny?
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Try cleaning out the EGR valve and see if it stops that code. Don't forget to disconnect the negative and reset that computer. How many miles are on it?
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The engine is not even broken in yet. But when it's time for your first air filter change, why not use a K&N?
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Thanks for sharing that info! This has been a hot topic on this board for about 3 weeks now. People have been asking about this.
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Jumper wire clean? Good continuity?
My check engine light is on. When I check the 1996 Toyota Camry four cylinder OBD1 check engine procedure to place a jumper from TE1 to E1 and then turn on the key to the on posistion the check engine light just remains solid - it does not blink to give me what the error code is. Any suggestions what the problem is? I can clear the code by pulling the EFI fuse for the recommended 15 seconds but the check engine light comes back on again after driving it. -
TSBs are not warranty issues to begin with. They are "secret recalls" advising a dealership how to fix a particular problem the best way. But they are called "secret recals" in events such as follows:.......the manufacturer discovers a constant recurring problem on a particular car. let's say, for example, the radiator caps keep going bad prematurely. So you might get a flyer from the dealership saying, "Hi Mr Smith our good customer: it's customer appreciation day. Bring your Corolla in for an oil change for $5 for your good patronage". Then, while you are in the waiting room watching TV or reading the Wall Street Journal, they are busy replacing your radiator cap.
So what was that TSB number?
Hi there..I have a 2003 LE Camry with popping-like noise in the steering column when I am turning.. The dealer replaced the intermediate shaft and the noise is now gone ..I haven't heard the steering column noise anymore...
The repair was done under warranty as the warranty is 3 years or 60000 km and my car was within the warranty period..... I don't know if there is a TSB for 2004 Camry with similar problem?? I don't know how you can find out if TSB is out for 2004....maybe Stevelaw knows, since he mentioned that TSBs were out before...
Are TSB's covered by the manufacturers regardless of warranty period?????
Does anyone know this for sure???
STEVELAW:: How do you find out about TSB's????....
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I would have to see the diagram to know which wires you need out of the harness, but the ground might be brown instead of black. Every Haynes manual has the diagram. This mght be woth the $15 to you. As for the instrument panel light, if the fuse turns out to have continuity, check to see if while you were putting the CD player in you might have inadvertently loosened another connecter just enough to break continuity. As a final resort, Crutchfield can probably sell you a connector which has the correct switchover and perhaps a diagram sheet.
HiAfter i installed my new cd-player in my camry, the light disapierd in the instrumentboard. So i would like to find the elctrical diagrams for my camry, (91 CS)
Another thing: can anyone tell me wich color cables i need fon the power site on my new cd-player? I need Accesery, Bat.. and (-).
Hope you can help me
Thomas
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I have the same stereo and I was just asked this question by another forum member. I have a scan of the wiring diagram if you want me to email it to you, but it does not show the other input connection. And hey: the tape player adapters is what we used to do with portable CD players, remember? They worked OK.
Hello,I have a 2002 Camry XLE V4 witha JBL Stereo (single CD player)
I recently bought an IPOD and wanted to connect it to my car. One solution is to buy one of those tape adaptors which plug into the tape player.
However, I am looking at options to connect it more directly.
I came across this:
http://catalog.belkin.com/IWCatProductPage...oduct_Id=178147
It says it will work with a car-stereo with an auxiliary input. I checked my toyota car manual - it does not say anything about the back connections.
Would someone please advise ?
regds
arjun
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I cannot find any txt information on this TSB---try to see if the parts department will help you on this. Make like you were coming to buy something else and see if he gives in. They'll figre you are a good customer anyway.
NV010R-03: Body - Front Door Glass Wind Noise....I see it referenced on the net but have no details. Anyone who has this TSB or has had it performed, please let me know the details. The dealer is of no help.....Re: prior post:
The vibration in question comes from either where the drivers window seeds itself into the seal (on the top or back side or both) OR from where the seal itself seeds itself into the door frame. It will occur over bumps and at high speeds and sounds like a vibration, similar to wind noise but worse. If I apply outward pressure to the window while driving, the noise stops. If I lower the window just a click is becomes quieter. This morning I pulled the upper and back side seal out of the door frame (this is where the upper window seeds itself) and pushed some felt in. It got better but I have done this before and it eventually comes back.
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Here are the general instructions:
On the 2S-ELC, 3S-FE and 1992 5S-FE engines, the spark plugs require replacement at 30,000 miles (48,000 km). On all other engines the spark plugs are platinum and require replacement every 60,000 miles (96,000 km). When you're removing spark plugs, work on one at a time. Don't start by removing the plug wires all at once, because, unless you number them, they may become mixed up. Take a minute before you begin and number the wires with tape. Disconnect the negative battery cable. If the vehicle has been run recently, allow the engine to thoroughly cool.
Remove the cap nuts and valve bank cover(s). On 1MZ-FE engines, disconnect the ignition coil wiring from the right and left cylinder heads. Remove the ignition coils from the cylinder heads. Arrange the coils in order on a table. Carefully twist the spark plug wire boot to loosen it, then pull upward and remove the boot from the plug. Be sure to pull on the boot and not on the wire. If compressed air is not available, use a rag or a brush to clean the area. Remove the spark plugs when the engine is cold, if possible, to prevent damage to the threads. If removal of the plugs is difficult, apply a few drops of penetrating oil or silicone spray to the area around the base of the plug, and allow it a few minutes to work. Using a spark plug socket that is equipped with a rubber insert to properly hold the plug, turn the spark plug counterclockwise to loosen and remove the spark plug from the bore. Yours may be 5/8. Inspect the spark plug boot for tears or damage. If a damaged boot is found, the spark plug wire must be replaced.
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I don't know which carb and intake to use, but as for the electrical, every Haynes manual has a wiring diagram in the back.
Hello all I have a question, i have a 1984 camry that i plan on racing in a local mini stock class,is their somplace i can get a diagram for eliminating all the unnecessary wires on the car.I cant get it to run,it runs for about 5 seconds then dies,i just need to use the injector control,injectors ,and charging system, the charging system is not that important, or is there a carburetor that will fit this engine,1995 cc i need an intake and carb. thanks for your time larry -
You're not going to cut the wires, are you?
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I wanted to bring it up because I think ALL toyota owners will benefit from using fyully or at least semi synthetic oil. And even though it is expensive, it's worth it. Consumer Reports ran an article in July outlining certain identified engines which were, by failure, demonstrating a propensity to cook conventional oil. Unfortunatley, two of the engines were Toyota engines: the 3l v-6 and the 2.2l four.
Is it true that SABB invented the turbo?
Hey Steve, You are right on the money on this one. I forgot to mention that I switched to a high grade synthetic oil when I installed the turbo. I have been monitoring the temps and all seem fine even under extreme conditions. I may not have had a probelm with the regular blend because the Toyota has an excellent cooling system but why take the chance. I know some folks will say but.....you live in the frozen tundra of Wisconsin. Well I am native of Alabama and travel the old road quiet frequently and during some of the hottest times of the year and even under heavy load, 15 hours of solid driving, engine running the entire time and extreme driving conditions the temps have stayed in the normal range. I am astutely familiar with synthetic oils from 20 years of wrenching on military jets. So thanks for highlighting this topic. -
Welcome to the board. I think in 2001 the rear brakes on the RAV4 were 9 inch drums.
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Synthetic oil or a blend like Mobil Drive Clean 7500. Turbos cook oil. Our millitary uses Mobil 1 as lube in the .50 calibers.
I see you really know your way around mechanics. Haven't broken anything yet and have been on and off the road considerably up here in the frozen tundra of Wisconsin. If it breaks then there will be a lot more stuff broken other than the turbo ie: the gas tank, the bed, shocks all made of softer material than the turbo. I'm not concerned with debri anomally because this turbo is tucked up under the bed very nicely. Heat reduction is a major concern when you have it all trapped under the hood. I'm certain there are pro's and con's to this argument but I tend to lean toward less heat in the engine compartment. Any other experienced mechanics want to help this guy out so he understands and just doesn't flip out. -
Air intake sensor..why not just drill a hole and put it back in?
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Time to go up the food chain. You've got a grounding problem or something going on with the distributor. You are under warranty---use it.
I have an 05 Solara with a radio problem. On AM stations especially stations not in the immediate area there is a tapping sound. The fast you go, the quicker the tapping. When the engine is idling there is no sound, step on the gas and tap tap tap. They have replaced the radio, alternator, and suggest I listen to FM stations. To me it sounds like the interference from the engine is a wiring issue. At this point an help would be great. I have had the car to the dealer 5 times with no improvement or hope.Thanks for any insight or direction on get this problem taken care of.
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Seems like this is an issue with Toys. If you end up designing something, I would like to talk to you.
Hello, all! I'm brand new to the TOC & its forums. I just purchased a 2002 Echo to replace my Hyundai Accent which was totaled in a rear-end accident.So far I'm vvv. pleased w/ my 5-speed dk. green Echo (great gas mileage & style!). The only thing that I would change is the size & height of the 3 drink holders; they are a bit too wide & shallow; almost every time I turn a corner, whatever they contain tips out or moves perilously. Does anyone know of converters or inserts that would make them more secure & user friendly?
All my Internet searches have resulted in finding complaints of car owners whose drink holders are too small (esp. for 32oz. + BigGulps, etc.); I seem to have the opposite problem. A person at a Toyota dealership parts department said he'd seen something that might work, but unfortunately I have been unable to locate what he described. My local auto parts stores do not carry anything suitable.
If anyone has any ideas/solutions to share, I will be v. appreciative!
Repairs
in Other Toyota Models
Posted
Go to an Autozone near you, if there is one, and ask them to pull the code for you. Most of them will do it for free (in the expectation that they will sell you a sensor or something). Some Advance Auto Parts (AAP) will do it for free as well. After you see what the code is, then go from there.