stevelaw
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Posts posted by stevelaw
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This is probably the most clear case of a warranty issue I have seen in a while. Take it back, and get the dealer to give you the warranty diagnosis in writing.
As for the starting RPS, my Camry starts a little high but runs great. You might have an electrical issue, but the car is brand new--have you looked at your idle screw?
hi guys,i have a 2005 corolla S, and its less than a year old, and have about 15K miles on it.and i am already having problems with my clutch, its slipping. what is the best way to fix it and save money?....oh and also what do i do when every time i turn on the car the rpm is about 1700? -
Yup. You just gave him the best advice. If he wants to do it, once each year he needs to swap it out. And then of course swap it back 12 hours later. Liquid Wrench is totally in order here. Plus a set of crowfoot wrenches that go on the end of a socket extension.
http://www.gunk.com/oe2.asp?pic=L204
Yes, and if you have eCheck in your area, you can definitely count on not passing your emissions check if you take off the cats. Of course, if you're good at that sort of thing, you could just swap out the pipes right before you take it to be tested. -
Thanks for posting this. I have not yet worked on an '05.
Before you buy a remote start, check to see if it's compatible with your car. If you have a Toyota alarm, you might have a problem because a lot of Toyota factory installed alarm systems will have a kill switch as part of the system, and that presents a problem with a remote start. Some of the remote start systems will trigger the engine kill switch and the car won't start. -
You definitley have an intermittent problem with your car. Are you having any problems with the tilt wheel?
STEVE
When I select the "Set" button on the cruise, it will work for a few miles, then the cruise shuts off by itself. The power light on the cruise stock is off when this happens. Now, If I turn on the power to the cruise but do not set it, it will not go off. Suspect the control board is bad, but don't know if the control board is on the servo or if it is separate. Anyone have an idea on this? -
Steve,
I'm new to the board. Thanks for your kind offer! If the Haynes manual has the wiring diagram for the 28 pin radio connector which I asked help for I will take you up on your offer. You can email me a PDF at
Marc.beauregard@videotron.ca
Thanks again
which model and year?
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Hi--did you send me your email address? I'll send the scans of the 2 pages.
STEVE
If you give me your email address I will send you the 2 pages of the manual on this. Unless Fidgits tells me that there is a way to post the images. -
Welcome to the club, and a big hello to all in Cook County. Chitown has some of the best places to eat in the whole world. Berghoff. Portillo's. And of course, the biggest auto parts place in the nation, J.C.Whitney is there.
Welcome! Corollas are great cars... -
did you turn the rotors when you put the pads on? they might be out of round.
I have had a squicking noise before, and heard that driving in reverse and fast stop will kill that squicking, well it does help untill the time my brake pads were flat to metal and i was always squicking except when i used the brakes at stopping there was no noise. I bought Brembo Cross-Drilled Rotors, and Semi-metalic Brendix Brake Pads, lubricated pads with quiet stop lubricant, as a result GREAT, SHORT, FAST, and QUIET stopping. It has been one month already and no squicking since:) Brendix brake semi-metalic pads are cheap and the best for street driving. -
If you give me your email address I will send you the 2 pages of the manual on this. Unless Fidgits tells me that there is a way to post the images.
Hi there Stevelaw: For a 2003 Camry LE 2.4L 4 cylinders...does your manual indicate the location of the coolant air bleeder on the engine block... I plan to drain and replace the coolant soon but... I don't know the location of the coolant air bleeder on the engine block...Your help is appreciated.. :) -
UPDATE: TSB'S: Toyota released two Technical Service Bulletins on 2002-2003 Camry's. First, steering wheel noise while turning--ST002-03 2003 Camry, second, front suspension knock or thump--SU001-03. So this should apply to all the 2002-2004 Camry's.
Carlearner, I have not had a chance to get back to the dealer yet. What's the word on yours? I feel my dealer may be trying to avoid this repair, perhaps too costly.Thanks
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1. What is the pad material? 2. Sis you get anti-squeal shims to put under the pads? 3. Did you use any silicone anti-squeal compound? 4. Were the rotors turned?
I just recently bought new brakes pads for my corolla at first there were fine but recently they make the noise wich sounds like i need new ones. I dont hear the noise all the time. What can it be? I really hate that noise it's one of the things that annoys me the most so if anyone can help me I would appreciate it thanks. -
Usually you can tell between which 2 cylinders the leak is because they will be next to each other. So you pulled all 4 plugs? or is it a v6?
i pulled spark plugs ther is coolant in there ...and its going straight to the H and is smoking really bad -
Fram G7767. His fuel filtr is a replaceable one. Crowfoot wrenches come in handy for this----Metric, regardless of vehicle location.
Check and see if you have a replaceable fuel fitler, also I recommend a compelte trans flush, as drain and fill doesn't get it all. You can do it yourself, I would advise, but I am trying it myself for the first time so search on the net, you can go auto-rx.com and look under the trans flush it will tell you how to do it yourself. -
I just sold cars for 2 people (1-a Mercedes) and (2-an Infiniti) by listing them on www.sharpcar.com.
It's free. But you need to go ahead and list the car.
$4000 obo pics by Monday Apopka, FL, My husband is thinkin of selling his Toyota 4x4 on 35's. He just bought a 87 ranger for the good gas millege since we are moving to Altoona & he is working in south Orlando. He may be interested in trading for a motorcycle also (better gas mil). Has a tool box & CD player, white with spray in bed liner & step bars on the side & A/C that will make you think your in Alaska. Was originally built by Chucks Trucks & on 44's(?). If you want more info pm or email me & he will write back. lilcountrygirlsl@aol.comNow here's the info from the owner - It has a 22RE motor with 103,330 original miles, 4 cy, 5 spd, 89 regular cab & bed and a 95 Tacoma 2 wd frame, motor & trany; 83 rearend & straight axle front end with a floater transfer case, dual flow master exhaust, 12" Alum rims with 35" A/T Wild spirit tires, 3" body lift, the body has no damage & we consider good shape just needs a good washing. I will try & get some pics this weekend.
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There is a possibility of a CV joint problem here, especially since you say it happens more when turning one way.
I am curious to see what Fyrwall says when he lets us know. (re: CV joint) -
Have you pulled the spark plugs yet?
from what my mechanic is telling me is that there is coolant is everywere sd that fixing the head will cost me about 1500 and putting in another motor + labor ..would be 1500 thats how much he charges for a swap like that from what you guys are telling me thats a good deal! now he is in process of looking for a motor for me but i was thinking if i could get a motor were would be a good place i have checked ebay not that many on there seems like the junkyard is the place to be ....when i get a chance i will take some pics and post it on there the mechanic is closed today -
This is for all 2002-2005 Camry owners: I have had several weeks to peruse the Haynes repair manual for 2002-2005 Camrys. The manual also included Solara and Avalon models. Let's just suffice it to say that my HP 7290 Scanjet and I "took a few liberties here". Anyone who needs information just ask me, and as time permits, I will step up to the plate. This is the North America manual. However, because there are Britons posting to this site occasionally, I would like to point out that there are numerous technical differences in the Toyotas sold to our very very good friends just across the big pond.
And we all ought to give a righto! to Fidgits for being a great site administrator.
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I am curious to see what Fyrwall says when he lets us know. (re: CV joint)
I just bought a 2004 Camry ~34000 miles. I have the same problem with the popping noise which I not only can hear but feel through the steering wheel. It occurs more when the car has warmed up, when steering over uneven ground, when accelerating from a stop, etc.Any suggestions or answers. :!:
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This is a folow up on a problem I had with changing the manual transmission oil on the 2001 Toyota Corolla ce.
As mentioned in the notes above the oil for the transmission was changed using jack stands to support the car. The car was still on jack stands when the transmission was refilled. I had eye-balled this and thought the transmission to be about parallel with the ground. I was wrong. The first day following the change the car was not driven on a highway. On the second day the transmission jumped out of fifth gear two times on an hour drive on a freeway.
Took the car into my garage and left it on the floor and reopened the fill/check hole. This let about a half cup of transmission fluid overflow out of the transmission. Looks like it had been too full. It has been 5 days since doing this and it has not jumped out of gear since.
It seems I over filled the transmission by tilting it back and raising the fill/check hole while it rested on jack stands. I don't understand the dynamics of how this led to it jumping out of gear. Perhaps someone can help.
Bottom line of all this is that all four wheels should be on level ground when the transmission is refilled. Both the fill/check plug and the drain plug are reachable from the driver's side of the vehicle without getting under the car. The splash board can also be removed without jacking up the car.
Yeah, its just like checking your engine oil--do it on level ground. Overfilling an automatic tranny will cause foaming, and all kinds of problems. So I assume it is similar for a manual tranny.
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Mike, as a X-mechanic, let me thank you for posting the information that you did. There's going to be 1000 other people looking for that information. By the way, Liquid Wrench works wonders with O2 sensors that are frozen. I know, it recently happened to me with my girlfriend's Sentra. Liquid Wrench was just the trick!
Also, whenever replacing an O2 sensor, because they are mounted in the exhaust, use the copper anti-siexe compound to prevent it from happening again.
Thanks for the reply fidgits - I actually have an update on this quest for the 02 sensor.======
I managed to find some another useful site on the web and the discussions held there led me to finding this O2 Sensor - Bank 1 Sensor 1 on my engine type = 1MZ-FE.
This other site is: http://about.com/
Search for "O2 toyota" or code "P0135" and a whole list of discussions come up.
I pieced together my answer there.
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Anyways - back to the actual location of the O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 on my engine, it's physically located at the "back" of the engine when you lift open the hood. The "back of the engine" is the side closest to the firewall/passenger's compartment.
It's not easily assessible at all from the top - as you're looking into the engine area. I can only see it by standing on the driver side and peering into the lower back side (between the engine and firewall) of the engine.
It looks like the shape and size of a spark plug with a cable attached to the end of the unit. The cable leads to a connector - which needs to be detached in order to test the resistance. Inside the cable - there are 4 wires.
The only way I was able to reach this O2 sensor is to get "under" the car, lifted on ramps. And then - you need a rather small sized arm to sqeeze in - to reach and remove the sensor.
Also - since the sensor is attached to the exhaust-like pipe - it's normally extremely hot in this area. So - the sensor was almost fused tightly together in the socket. I had to use WD-40 and other "liquid-wrench" - rust penertrating type spray to loosen it. I struggled for more than an hour with an adjustable wrench before it finally came loose.
I measured the resistance of the O2 sensor and it read 2.5M ohms. The spec book said it should be between 11 - 16 ohms. So - it's definitely defective, which will need to be replaced.
It's not what I would recommend someone doing it themselves - because it was quite a struggle to physically get access to the O2 sensor unit. Unless - you're really determined to save (and I'm just guessing - $150 parts and $200 labour) - it's not worth the hassle. - I was only determined to do it because people said to leave it for the "pros".
Anyways - I hope someone else will find this experience useful.
mikeFromOttawa
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Hello! Welcome. Vilkommen.
Hello, I'm a new member. I just joined to list my husbands yota for sale it is in the for sale section under 89 4x4. It seems like a pretty nice forum hope to meet some new people. -
Yes---run the filter first and see how you do with it before purchasing the spacer.
quote=PeteA,Oct 3 2005, 10:38 PM]
Actually, it's on it's way now, any advice on the Airaid Poweraid?
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By the way, Toyota Corolla 1992-96 automatic transmissions (though yours is an automatic) also have a 24 millimeter drain plug for the differential. 24.5 millimeters equals an inch, so a 15/16 socket works as well. In fact, the easiest way to get to the differential on the aforementioned is with a 15/16 inch open end/closed end wrench.
Did manual transmission oil change today for first time. Got data from Haynes Repair Manual to use API GL-5 75-90 w gear oil. Found it at Advance Auto parts store in quart containers.Jacked up car and used jack stands. Slid under car and could not find either drain or fill/check plugs. Took off splash cover on left side to get better view of tranmission. It has about 6 small ( 10 mm) bolts and two screws. Screws come out of a plastic backing and the bolts from nuts held in place. Want to note which came from which hole. Used a six inch extension on the ratchet to remove some of these.
Still could not find drain or fill/check plugs even after rechecking Haynes. Went to the Toyota Repain Manual and found the plugs pictured in a diagram in the transaxle section. The plugs are 24 mm hexagonals. The fill and check plug is at the front of the car and the drain is on left side. It did not seem to me that the plugs were separated vertically by much . Maybe 1.5 ". Got 24 mm socket from Sears for about $4.00.
Undid the fill/check plug and had some run off of the fluid. Let me know it was full. Replugged this and removed the drain plug.
The pain is in getting the gear oil back into the transmission. The plastic bottles are too big for the space available to be able to squirt it in directly. Got a funnel from Advance Auto with a calibrated cup on top and about 18" inches of tubing at the bottom. Could thread the tubing down from behind the radiator and stick the end into the fill/check hole. Supposed to fill until the fluid just begins to come out or about 2.7 quarts. Moved the drain pan under the fill hole and put the first two quarts in pretty quickly. Went slower in adding the last part letting the tubing clear before adding more to the funnel. When it began to overflow, pulled the tubing out and let it drip in the drain pan. Put in the plug and tightened. Did not see a torque rating for these plugs so just tightened them.
The time delays were in getting the 24 mm socket- get the short socket -and in getting the funnel with the tubing. Had also tried a suction pump but it was faulty and would not suck. Funnel worked well and quickly and it was cheaper.
Seemed silly to have to take off the splash board to get to the drain and fill/check plugs but I could not figure any other way. It is really a pretty quick job to undo the bolts and screws and to set the splash board aside.
Given the right tools, this job can be done in less than 30 minutes including the jacking up of the car and the placing of the jack stands. I combined it with an oil change and I fooled around trying to figure out things for a long time. Hopefully I will remember what to do next time<G>.
BTW on the Car Talk web site someone recommends letting your service people do this job. They said they can do a better job of flushing the transmission. Might be so but it was a fun job if you just want to play with your tools.
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If you don't end up getting it, at least consider a K&N air filter. 1 or 2 horses added.
99 Camry power steering
in General Toyota Discussions
Posted
HI and welcome. How many miles are on your Camry>