B-R-T

It should be on a firewall somwhere around the brake booster or on one of the strut towers. Mine is punched on a stainless steel plate wich is on a firewall. Its not the same car though.. But you should look for something like this

If you want to get to this car thing I suggest you to get yourself a Civic. Because they can be modified very easily and internet is stuffed with mods for them. But I don't like civics, because its not fun, when its to easy <_< And I love Toyotas I dont like Nissans too much, so I cant tell you much about them.. About a Pontiac.. Engine specs kinda makes me laugh.. one example: 1988-1992: L03 5.0L V8, 170 hp and 255 ft·lbff My 1.3L engine is making 180hp with stock internals.. And right now I'm looking for a forged ones with them I will squeeze about 250hps or more..

This summer I got a good lesson. Don't drift with FWD car using handbrake + burnout (to correct the trajectory when sliding into a turn or to end a 180 turn). Because you can end up with a differential that really needs some "dental care". Gotta get a limited slip differential.. or a lockable one.. For now I'v just got a new transmission. I gues I have to be more careful with the stock transmission.

You better get your car to a transmission repair shop before you broke something inside of it. Then it will be messy.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-91-92-93...sspagenameZWD1V + http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Camry-Celic...sspagenameZWD1V + http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/F1-RACING-S...sspagenameZWDVW (you can get a cheaper one, not "racing") + http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-SWS-REV...1QQcmdZViewItem + http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-99-BUG-B...1QQcmdZViewItem + A lot of work and some more parts maybe. Like a clutch master cylinder, shifter cables, etc.. But it's worth it.. Automatic takes all the joy from driving.. You dont feel all the torque and HP your car has.. Although it will cost you a lot of money and time. Besides, you need to have a lot of tools and to be able to work from under the car. Actually I think it would be better for you to sell this car and get a celica with manual tranny. You can sell your car for about $4000 - $4500 and get a celica for about $2500 so you will have ~$2000 for upgrades. Now thats a project ;) But its always your choice..

Engine mounts: try to move the engine with your hand and you will see which mount is bad. You can try to change the worst one. You dont have to change all of them if some of them are good. Intake: 2a. O2 is inside the exhaust pipe, before (and sometimes another one after, if two O2s are used) the cat. Although there should be a breather hose going form valve cover to your intake. You can either put a breather filter on the breather outlet on the valve cover, or you can leave it open and just hangin (although it will spill some oil occasionally). Another option is to get an oil catch tank from ebay. 2b. Yes, thats why you should route it in to a colder place. The best way to do it: Aluminum pipe with least sharp turns as possible routed to a really cold place (like in front of a radiator), and the pipe should be routed away from hot engine parts. Aluminum - because it is light and it transfers heat very good. Not like plastic or rubber - when they get hot, they stays hot. Aluminum cools down faster. Anyway, dont expect too much from air intake. Actually I doubt that you will feel any change. Unless your air filter is clogged now. Ok, so how much money are you going to spend on your car? And.. is it automatic?

Ok.. I just gotta comment this guy.. Since when "O2 sensor controls the air-fuel mix"?! A/F mixture is controlled ONLY by ECU. Yes, ECU uses O2 signal (which is 0.5V = stoich, anything lower - ritch, anything higher till 1V - lean for narrow band) for mixture correction, but it is not using it 100% of a time. One of the examples when engine is running only from a fuel map is when ECU is on the Warm-up, or when the coolant temp is lower then operating temp. Temperature signal for ECU is comming from a temp sensor which is a simple thermistor (resistor with variable impedance, which changes according to temperature it is in, lower imp - higher temp). The thing you are calling "CHIP" is actualy a resistor. When you put it on a wire from coolant temp sensor to ECU, ECU will "think" that engine is not in operating temperature, so it will keep enriching mixture and ignoring O2 sensor. Actually I never used this crap, because I'm using programmable standalone ECU.

Yeah, you better change those mounts. My car has four (well it's actually 1 engine mount and 3 transmission mounts, but they all are holding engine+transmission). Its not to hard to change 3 of them - front, left and right mounts. But the rear mount is a real pain in the a**.

2. Cat is the first one. 3. Most of "cold air intakes" are not actually very cold. They jus are less restrictive. And routes to a "colder" (but not always) place of the engine compartment.

Speed sensors are not under the hood. Sensors are located on both front wheels (on all wheels with ABS). "Open Sensor" means either bad connection, either fried sensor.

Do you have a car alarm? Because it looks like a car alarm problem to me. Or maybe a faulty relay.

Racing wheels are lighter and much more resistant to damage. But I really doubt that you'r going to get a real racing wheels. Because today there are a lot of alloy wheels, but the cheaper wheels are really weak and they can deform easily if you bump a pothole or something. "Real" racing wheels are much harder to deform and they are made of light alloys. And most of them are forged. Lighter wheels increases performance a bit. Because wheels are lighter, so less power is wasted. But increasing diameter will actually reduce the performance, because it increases inertia momentum (which is mass for a rotary motion). Decreasing weight and increasing diameter will reduce performance (not really noticeable though) because inertia momentum is I=mR^2. So weight is not as important as radius. But thats for racing. Did you ever saw a Formula 1 or Nascar with large diameter wheels? Of course not ;) For a street driver I suggest tu put "plus" tires (the wider ones). Because it increases the grip. But of course you will burn more fuel. And you will probably need spacers and some bodywork on the front arcs. Dont go crazy with diameter though.. 17" is enough.

my bad with that P, wrong letter But N will not work either, because in N all planetary gears spins inside of the transmision and you still need at least runing engine. If you cant start your engine, you CAN'T tow even for a short distance! Because oil pressure is too low when engine is off (actually there are almost no pressure at all). About a truck.. You missed my point. I wanten to say, that you HAVE to call for a truck. If you have manual transmission, you can call your friend. Which of those calls are cheaper? It's not dangerous to tow with a rope.. If you know what you are doing. But when towing car even with manual transmision with engine off, the brakes will be almost useless because of absence of the vacuum inside intake manifold. Thats the only problem. Well, steering to, but thats not that important. Hell, I was driving my old '87 BMW without a power steering and I'm still alive :D I even made some good drifts <_< :P Damn, I miss that car

Try eBay, there are a lot of different bumpers.

You will need to take out the transmission, remove the pressure plate from flywheel and put a new clutch disc. And maybe you have to change the pressure plate to. It depends on how bad it is. Bu I think it could be enought to change the disc. If you dont have any skills or you dont even know what's under your hood you better leave it to the mechanics. It's not easy to remove tranny if you dont have a garage and tools.

The bolt is located in the center of each wheel hub. You should see it, when you remove the wheel. It has a bent pin and a cap on it. Don't know the torque though. But I suggest not to waste your time. I doubt that it could cause any trouble. But if you want to...

NO, tranny wil not fit. And you have to get an ECU for this engine to. Because your ECU will not work. Just get 4EFTE with ECU.

As you see from his fotos, he has alot of free space around the wheels.

He just needs to put lower springs and stiffer shock absorbers. Nobody puts only springs to lower a car (of course, nobody with some brain). If you want to make a job right, you have to modify body too. Like cutting the fenders around wheels to expand the wheel well. But that's not necessary. You have to do it when lowering a lot or when using large diameter rims.

Oh, BTW, did you know, that you cant tow a car with your beloved AT? ;) Even in "P". If your car brokes down a few miles from home, you cant call your friend to tow you with the rope. You have to get a truck with platform. If you tow it with a rope - your tranny's fried :P good luck with that

11) due to the up-to-3.0x torque multiplication feature of the torque converter, a car has more acceleration when you accelerate out of a stop. Moreover almost all automatic cars today have the torque converter lock-up clutch, that eliminates the slippage between the pump (input power, engine side) and the turbine (output power, transmission side) of the torque converter. This by-pass function is studied to improve fuel economy at constant speed. More acceleration? nope, wrong again ;) ATs ar for dummies, who are to slow, to shift ;) And, obviosly, you are one of them :P Thanks for a good dose of humor ;) You are a funny guy good for you

9) with automatic transmissions there's less wear than on a clutch, and there's less wear on suspensions and crankshaft/lower engine because of lack of transmission snatchs; how does manual transmission adds more "wear to suspensions and crankshaft"?! are you &%#$* stupid or what? manual transmission is bad only for one thing. for a turbo without BOV. because, when throttle is closed when shifting gears the surge of compressed air smashes into turbocharger compressor blades, which in time causes shaft failure. but thats it. and if you have bov, you dont have this problem. 10) due to the automatic transmission kick-down feature you can get speed very fast, pulling yourself out fastly from bad and dangerous traffic situations; Total bull$&@%...

5) for the life of car, there isn't to worry about the expensive clutch-disc substitution; yeah, right.. expensive.. ~100 bucks in 10 - 15 years.. VERY expensive... 8 bucks a year..

[6) with a manual transmission, how many burning-wheels dragster-style starts can you do without the clutch overheats? With an automatic transmission, instead, you can do this for the times you want, endlessly; 7) with a manual transmission, when you are at a stop on a uphill, when you have to start you have to release very carefully the clutch pedal, risking to overheat it; with an automatic transmission, instead, you have just to apply trottle, regardless of the weather, grip, slope, car load and anything else; overheat clutch?! WTF?!