B-R-T

Don't drive too fast then

Mr. Ferdinand Porsche?

Actually it's much easier to do it with manual ;) Rev it up, release the clutch and have fun

High beams projects light diffrently. It "aims" higher and projects light much wider. But you don't need them if you are only driving in lit areas such as cities or suburbs.

What model? :)

My friend has an older S4. He's making 450hp on its 5 cyl 2.2L engine. He only reprogrammed his ECU for higher boost and remapped fuel/spark maps. Then he added larger intercooler and changed turbochargers coolant pump for higher flow. S and RS for Audi is same as M for BMW. It's not just a trim. It's totally different car from A4 or A6. I know alot of people who are driving Audi. From technical side it is almost perfect. It is more reliable then Mercedes or BMW. Audi 5 cyl engines are very strong. They can hold alot of additional power without a need to change any internal components. Transmissions are very good too. Audi is a very reliable car. My friends father is still driving the good old Audi 80. Damn.. his car was built in 1982. And he never had any problems with engine or transmission. I personaly don't like Audi. I don't know why... I just don't Maybe because a lot of my firends has Audi. I don't like to be like everybody else Oh, besides.. Audi and VW (Volkswagen) is the same carmaker But Volkswagen was supposed to be making cheap cars for the people (Volk or folk) and Audi was making more expensive cars. It supposed to be until Volkswagen made a Phaeton So Volkswagen is not anymore a folk-wagon ;)

I know that, but when it's "proper"?

Or you can get one decent kit for low beams and cheaper for high beams (crappy kit from ebay). I doub't that you will be using your high beams very often. At least when you still learning how to drive :)

You'll need two pairs of bulbs + balasts. Low beam bulb type for your camry should be 9006 High beam type 9005 Bulbs should look like this (9006 and 9005 bulbs looks almost the same): Stock HID

"Proper burnout" what a hell is that? When it's considered to be not proper? You can alter, but it takes time, and you have to do it before race. And if something goes wrong, you can't just lower your gear.. Besides.. it's still an auto tranny... it breakes.. Manual breakes too, but its not that sensitive for oil shortage (if you have an oil leak or something) or increased power. And you actually can change your gear ratios in manual. You only need to change diameter of a single gear that is responsible for changing torque for certain gear. I'm not saying that's something you can do at home or it's cheap, but it's much easier than changing entire planetary gear system of an auto tranny.

This Micey will be faster anyway

They WILL do that, but it'll still going to look like crap..

IX looked better.. The only good thing, that the new impreza looks worse

Of course he will help you. Only difference between RWD and FWD trannys are that FWD has differential inside of a gearbox and driveshafts connects to a transmission directly. In RWD differential is located in the back of a car, between the wheels and only thing that goes from tranny is a cardan shaft, which goes to a differencial. So its even easier to take out transmission in a RWD, because you don't have to take the driveshafts from wheels (and tranny). Which takes about 15 minutes and I had to do front wheel alignment afterwards

You must be joking.. You will eat dust if you drag race with automatic (except CV tranny in some cases) Auto tranny has VERY bad acceleration. It feels like your clutch is slipping when you step on gas pedal. Even if car is more powerful then opponents you still can be the second one, because you cannot alter the way your gears are shifting. And shifting is the most importatnt thing in drag racing. Horsepower is just second most important thing. Yes it's easier to drag race with auto tranny, but easier is not always better ;)

For heat transfer? Or grounding?

hmm.. since when Mitsubishi is Toyota?

"Kit" includes two bulbs and two balasts ("starters" for each bulb). Your old bulb connectors connects to a balast and balast connects to a HID bulb. You can choose whatever temperature you like. I don't know what do you want more, a good visibility or a "cool" looks.

They do not blind if headlights are aligned properly. And if you didn't forget to switch to low beams But they are brighter (less temperature - more light). Like 4500K are very bright and just a little bluish. When temperature increases brightness decreases and light becomes more bluish until it becomes violet. Violet looks cool, but are not going to see a sh** Temperature doesn't change. All bulbs have they own temperature rating.

Put xenon HID lights in these headlights. But not that cheap crap. Get those over $100 with balasts. Just don't go over 6500K of heat.

Site where I got my stock clutch kit (I later put a ceramic clutch disk on it from ClutchNet.com but you dont need racing parts for now): http://www.carpartswholesale.com/cpw_store...;my=1&cat=h Clutch kit. http://www.carpartswholesale.com/cpw_store...mp;make_code=TO Clutch master cylinder http://www.carpartswholesale.com/cpw_store...mp;make_code=TO Clutch slave cylinder http://www.carpartswholesale.com/cpw_store...mp;make_code=TO They don't sell pedals. You have to get something on ebay and make necessary modifications, or find a junk car (I think celica's pedals could work too). You will need a brake pedal too, because stock pedal is wider and you could press it when shifting. Same with the shifter. And you will probably going to have problems with ECU too, because there is a neutral saftey switch so you couldn't start your engine while in gear but you can short-circuit wires that are coming from that switch so it will be always on. And you have to wire backing-up lights to a switch on a manual tranny. Yes, short shifter shortens distance between gears of your shifter. I don't have one. I think it was made for slow people

You have to get flywheel for manual, because auto tranny flywheels has torque converters instead of pressure plates on them. So you probably will not going to find holes for bolts to fit a pressure plate. You need a clutch kit so you can connect your engine to your tranny. When your clutch pedal is released, pressure plate presses clutch disk to a flywheel. Clutch disk is directly connected to transmissions imput shaft. So when pressure plate presses clutch disk to a flywheel clutch disks spins at same speed as an engine. When you press a clutch pedal you are releasing pressure plate so it is no longer pressing clutch disk. So pressure plate and flywheel spins @ engine speed and clutch disk spins @ transmission speed (or wheel speed with added gear ratios) or it's not spinning if car is not moving or if you're not in gear.

It should fit. Transmission fits engine, not the car. You can get a stock flywheel (for manual, to fit a pressure plate), light weight F/W is not necessary. But you have to get a clutch kit (pressure plate + clutch disk + release bearing) and clutch master cylinder (and slave cylinde with lines if transmission doesnt comes with them). You also will need a clutch pedal and shifter with cables. Speed sensor may be different from auto tranny. Dont know about driveshafts though.

Basic turbo kit with crappy turbocharger and old-school fueling using FMU. Max 5-7psi. About 60hp. Still have to fiigure something out about ignition timing and knock detection (stock ECU has knock detection, but I don't know what its going to do when engine is knocking. It could retard ignition or simply light up check engine light). For 5psi of boost ignition timing is not necassary. Or a manual transmission.

Do you think he's THAT stupid? :lol: But yeah, you right about that. And engine can start and then die, because when ECU is not receiving voltage signal from MAF it will run in a "safe" mode, or will cut ignition. I have MAP sansor it's easier to work with, and fueling is still accurate. Don't know why they are putting MAFs istead of MAPs though...