Naz

hmm, think i'll have to pay a visit to a tire shop and see what they say. The optional alloys on my car were 15" so maybe 17" wouldn't be too difficult. Aren't the settings for ABS, odometer, and the revolution distance easily changed by a dealer or expirenced tire shop? Well the price for geting new alloys is of course more then getting another set of tires but at least it'll be a good $200 some dollars cheaper because of the free tires, each tire actually costs $80 new so I'm saving a decent penny.

hmm depends how long, the max downtime I could survive with would be 2 days on a weekend, since I need the car to go to work M-F. Do you think its worth it for me to get the alternator repaired/rested now? or wait till the condition shows again in the winter?

So a few weeks ago, a buddy of mine threw out a set of almost brand new tires from his car since he purchased a new set of rims that were a differnt size. So he let me have the tires so the set that i currently have on passed inspection but pass the quarter test JUST barely so i'll be in the market for a new set pretty soon at my current pace along with winter coming. So I was thinking maybe i'll just buy some decent alloys that fit the tires that my friend gave me. My car right now has 14" stock steel wheels/hub caps, the tires my friend gave me are 17" tires. Now when I measure, the diameter of the entire wheel is very close about an half inch difference if that. The Width is also about a quarter inch wider then my stock tires. So any advice as to what would need to be done to fit 17" wheels onto my car? I've seen people on cardomain with 19" on my gen camry that fit in the wheel well no problem, but I was wondering could 17" be too big for the front wheels to turn all the way without some sort of modification? I could use some new shocks, i still have my stock ones after 162k and they do tend to make some noice when going over big bumps and in the winter their horrendously loud. Guess thats what philadephia pot poles can do to a car ;)

Hi, last winter back in feb. i started noticing some power issues with my car. When it was very cold below 30 degree's i'd notice that at stoplights the interior instruments and headlights would slightly dim then when i rev'ed up or started acclerationg they would all be slightly brighter. So I assumed it was my alternator since the battery had been replaced only a few months prior. However now that its summer, I see no problems anymore whatsoever with my power system, no diming of the lights at idle or anything. Anyone else hav this situation? and if so when did your alternator die? right now i'm at 10 years/162k. Also anyone know if alternators can be serviced? A buddy of mine once told me that you can get the brushes in an alternator cleaned/replaced and its realatively inexpensive compared to the price of a new alternator.

well i can help you out to make the passenger be able to operate the nav system while your driving. If you access the service menu from the nav you can override it. 1)Go to the menu for the volume of the navigation 2)Touch the upper left corner of the screen 3)touch the bottom left corner of the screen 4)Touch the upper left corner again 5)touch the bottom left corner again 6)the service menu should come up 7)Find the button labeled "override" hold it until the car beeps Enjoy being able to let the passenger find POI's while driving!

yeah i would try another phone, i used my old motorola razr and paired with a new camry it worked like a charm

If it really bothers you that much and you don't find the voice dial useful, override the system by accessing the service menu from the nav screen. 1)Menu 2)Volume 3)Touch the top left corner of the screen once 4)Touch the bottom left corner of the screen once 5)Touch the top left corner of the screen once 6)Touch the bottom left corner of the screen once 7)On the service menu screen that pops up find the button labeled "override" and push & Hold it until u hear a beep 8)enjoy driving with all the functionalities of your nav. :) ah the perks of working at a lexus dealer

personally i'd go with the handpainted, I always like to think if i'm gonna do something to the car i should at least try and get/do the best i can without settling for something cheap/easy. The end result is always worth it :) However if you do get the long sticker type a good quality like the one from the factory should last a long time. The factory pinstripes on my car are still intact and have the original color but in 2 spots it seemed to of come off and just be missing but the spots r very minor and only a trained eye would pick up on it. Not bad for a car thats 10 years old w/161K and temperatures ranging from the teens in the winter to triple digits in the summer.

yeah sorry for being MIA! work/school have been keeping me pretty busy

nice! i'm thinking about putting a similar light set up with my camry

yeah i once had a corolla loaner car when i put my camry in for service and it had JBL sound w/6 disc changer double DIN factory headunit. You should be able to just stick the JBL system into your double DIN slots and it should work like a charm. Although the JBL system is made for 8 speakers where as your car i believe would only have 4? Don't know exactly how that would work out though. because the way the base system is set up is that it has 4 speakers each speaker having a cone and a tweeter, However the JBL set up has 8 and uses a component set up where u have 2 Separate Tweeters and 2 Separate Cones and 4 normal cone/twetter combination speakers. 2+2+4=8. But i'm sure you can figure it out lol you could probably just ignore the 4 connections on the back for the 2tweeters and 2 cones and just use the 4 connections on the back for the normal cone/tweeter speakers.

yeah that high idle sounds perfectly fine. in my case my camry does the same thing, on cold cold starts it'll idle at around 1700RPM then drop down to 750 after its warmed up. i wouldn't worry about it at all, it sounds perfectly normal. only thing you could do if you wanted, just use synthetic motor oil, i'v seen that the car warms up much quicker with synthetic motor oil, along with better fuel economy/performance/smoothness.

lol yeah deff

really? you sure about that? I'v been in 1 rear end collision before and I guarantee that if i didn't have my head rest positioned correctly I could of easily gotten seriously injured. "Since January 1, 1969, the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) under Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) No. 202 has mandated head restraints in the front outboard seats of all new passenger cars. On September 1, 1991, head restraint standards were extended to pickups, vans, and SUVs." "In December 2004, NHTSA upgraded FMVSS 202 to require head restraints that are higher and closer to the back of people's head" ^ http://www.iihs.org/research/qanda/neck_injury.html

I have a "98 4 cylinder camry and I experienced the same exact problem. The car would only make the pop noise when it was very cold outside but besides that it would be fine and turn on normally throughout the rest of the day. I didn't think much of it and by the time i decided to get it looked it, it was warm again and the problem went away completely. I'm not sure at all what it could be, my car right now has 160K on it so since you only have 70K I wouldn't worry about it too much. We'll see when winter comes around again if I have the same problem i'll get it looked at. To say the truth my car has a habit of fixing itself lol. Alignment was out..then all of a sudden it was fine again, that popping noise then when it got slightly warm and it completely went away. My camry has been a angel to me in the department of reliabililty and i'm sure if you treat yours well it'll reliable as the sun as well. In the past 10 years of ownership and 160K miles later my car has NEVER broken down or not turned on due to mechanical failure of any kind. (knock on wood) And I do put the car through its paces, weather changes in my area throughout a year easily go from the negative temperatures to 100+ and my car is used as a everyday work car so it is almost ran every single day in the worst of weather and driving conditions. Quite literally the car has only ever not turned on twice in the past 10 years, once 5 years after ownership when the battery died, and again very recently 10 years after ownership when the the second battery died.

did you seriously remove the headrests? Not to act like a parent or anything but without the headrest that car is basically a death trap lol

Sounds pretty accurate, my guess would be that it most likely is the remote starter and not anything else related to the power system since your car is so new.

As far as i'v seen the system is set up to automatically turn off the recirculate whenever it thinks theres too much moisture in the air so that you don't end up fogging up your windows or causing mold to form in the HVAC system. I personally have a 98 camry which doesnt hav it but my dad's 2001 Lexus does. Its actually quite helpful, i'v seen lots of people complaining about my gen camry's where the HVAC smells terrible and its always been because those people left their cars on recirculate all the time, causing mold to build up in the HVAC from all the excess moisture making the terrible smell.

I Ran into the same exact thing! and I had the same solution. All i did was wrap the cable running to the trunk lid with more electrical tape and it fixed it easily. Looks to be a pretty common problem.

Actually I fixed the problem. Seemed like some of the wiring going to the rear tailights/reverse lights/license plate lights was a little damaged in one spot, so i used some electrical tape and the all the problems went away completely

My 98 I4 camry has about 156K on it and I just expirenced a very weird issue. When i turned it on today the P and R on the gear selector on the dashboard were both lit up even though it was completly in park. Then when i put my foot on the brake the check engine light and the fused tailight indicator came on. So i put it in neutral and turned the car off and turned it on again. When i did the car sounded funny when it turned on, not like it does normally and the symtom's happened again. Then i let it warm up, it was about 27 degrees outside. Then after warming up i did the same thing and the P and R problem went away and so did the weird start when i turned it on and so did the fused tailight indicator but the check engine light remained. Then after a short drive when i turned the car on again it went away and is still running and driving normally so i really don't know what to make of it. Anyone else out there expirienced something similar? I'll be taking in to the mechanic shorty to see if theirs anything i should worry about.

That costs around 500+ I assume right? with price of the new alternator and labor? jeees if my alternator goes idk whats going to happen. right now i'm in school so its going to be a struggle to afford to fix the problem and i dont use the car much anymore except weekends. anything i can do to prevent it going soon?

My 98 I4 camry has about 156K on it and its running into some minor cosmetic issues I've never encountered before. When stopped at red lights i notice that my interior lights are slightly dim as if there not getting enough power. So I put the car in neutral and rev up to maybe 1500RPM and the interior lights/headlights get slightly brighter. Is this just a sign of my electrical system/alternator wearing out? I just replaced the battery 3 months ago. I found this DIY page for something called "The Big 3" where it changes the cables running from the battery-alternator-ground/chassis. Think its worth the investment?, note: this problem just started occurring after the temperature dropped below 40-30 degrees, in the heat its fine but in cold seems to make this cosmetic problem occur, and I do one day hope to install a more powerful sound system and I'd assume fixing my electrical system would be the first step. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t89855.html

I had a similar problem with my dads car. he has a 2001 lexus RX300. once in a while the check engine and VSC and traction control light would come on and stay on for maybe a week? then it would just go away. It was very odd my dad never paid mind to it because he just says it goes away after a while, so if the cars driving dynamics aren't changed then its prolly not a big deal, but i would recommend taking it in to the dealer to see what they say. The check engine used to happen to my dads RX because whenever he went for a oil change, the placement of the oil filter on the 3.0L V6 is in a hard to reach area and its very very easy to brush up against the oxygen sensor causing the check engine light to come on.

yeah deff. from all gen4 camrys have either the 2.2L I4 or 3.0 V6