Naz

Hmm any idea what the OEM bulbs were? If I remember right they were Slyvania which is one i'm using now. but maybe the new slyvania's have different resistance then the older bulbs? That's all I've been using in the car since I bought it new 14 years ago lol

So the other day I got into my 98 Camry and the fused tail light indicator light came on, so I go look there's one tail light out, changed it. light STILL stayed on....all lights still working but the warning light still comes on. So..assuming that one of the other two bulbs are just getting old and not giving off enough resistance I replaced them with new bulbs. STILL giving the warning light. Took all three out, cleaned the terminals with condensed air installed bulbs again..and light is still on. Anyone else have this issue??

yess it was. The part is only $100 to purchase on ebay new with a 2 year warranty. Looking at the ehow.com etc. on how to replace the valve, it seems pretty straight forward. Might just have to go that route, $100 + elbow grease > $750. Looking around I found some people saying that by using a carb cleaner it was a good fix too. Anyone ever tried it?

Hi all! It's been a while since I've last come to the forum, looks like a lots changed since I last visited!. Anyway I have come across a dilemma with my Camry. It is a 98 with about 198,000 miles on it and the check engine light recently came on. Got it diagnosed, said it would cost $750 to replace the EGR valve. Now with the cars age i'm not sure if I want to go ahead of replace it right now. The car was just inspected last month so I have almost a year until state inspection is due again so basically a year until I'd be forced to have the EGR valve taken care of. Any one else come across this issue? Is the EGR valve really completely shot? or could it be cleaned/mended in some way? Thanks! Specs 1998 Camry 2.2L 198,000+ Most recent work: New catalytic converter and flex pipe (damaged from a tow truck when it got towed away from being "illegally" parked) Iridium spark plugs, new wires. Timing belt, Accessory Belt, and a seal for the oil pump. Other then that, the car still runs great and I don't really have any huge rush to get rid of it, only thing that makes me consider it, is from a financial aspect.

Hi, I recently had a Viper 5901 remote state, alarm, and keyless entry installed onto my car. So far it has worked flawlessly until a few days ago. For someone reason once in a while the alarm will just go off on its own maybe 3-5 Mins after I armed the car for no apparent reason. The alarm reports the shock sensor was set off but the car wasn't moving and no one was around it each time it went off. I lowered the sensitivity of the shock sensor all the way down to 3 out of 15 and it requires a pretty strong hit to set off the warning chirps so to just set off the alarm without even a warning chirp would be a major hit. Seems to be very random, once in a while it'll do it, once in a while it wont. Any one else experienced something similar?

I Have this exact same problem on my toyota. you don't need to replace the sensor or anything of the sort. My case, every time I opened my trunk the "R"-Reverse light turned on in my gear indicator and the orange symbol of a fused tail light would come on also, but it would go away when i closed the trunk. Some investigating seems the cable that holds all the wires for the lights on the trunk lid was damaged, probly happened sometime when i was loading/unloading cargo. The cable runs along the left hinge for the trunk and is in a black insulated tube. The point where the tube bends everytime the trunk opens and closed needs to be mended or reinforced, if you just play with it you'll be able to see the lights come on/off and you should be back in business with no problems.

yeahh i actually found a local speed shop that sells them, they said my set should come in tomorrow $10 for all 4!

Naa everything is stock lighting besides the blue LED license plate lights and HIDs. Inside i have a blue LED dome light, and a blue neon tube under each seat that light up the front and rear foot wells, pulsating to the bass of the music, its pretty sick! I actually called the HID company and they said to switch the bulbs from right headlight to left and see if its the bulb or the wiring set up, I did and it did the same exact thing, so I just need to give them another call and see what they'll do about it.

wondering if anyone knew about hubcentric spacers for my car? I've been driving without them for a while without much issue but a recent trip to the shop the mechanic let me know that they would make it a drive much better and be smoother. thnx!

http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-sn...7_3529192_n.jpg ohh yeahhh. one problem though my highbeam on the right side is non operational :/ have to call them and ask for a replacement. How my kit works is, its 1 bulb and when i turn on my high beam the bulb moves to the correct position to shine the light higher (instead of a normal twin filament halogen bulb, my car has a single filament xenon bulb), the method works like a charm on the drivers side headlight, but on the passenger side the light goes Down when i turn on my highbeams...so i gotta ask them what to do, or send me another bulb. we shall seee but in the meanwhile my low beams are blinding motorists who are too hypnotized by the blue color to look away!

niice. i'll give it a shot and see what happens.

ahh. also did you see how he put the ground cable on the negative side of the battery? he just unscrewed a small bolt and put that ground cable on and screwed it back on, could i do the same for my positive terminal even though it doesnt have support for the extra inputs?

leighcm!! lol wish i read that before i bought my kit the other day :/ oh well. by the way is that kit bi-xenon for the high/low beams?

thanks man! i'll keep you posted. hopefully the weather around here gets a bit nicer, the only thing really stopping me is the cold weather :/

I found this vid online, and it looks pretty similar to what i'm going to do, think those ballast mounting points are good spots?

my engine bay looks just like this, however this isnt my exact car http://images.cars.com/phototab/DMI/185967...FitPad/b:dddddd

Hi I have a 1998 camry and just bought a HID kit for my headlights and needed some help on installation. I can wire it all up correctly but 1 instruction is to connect the high/low beam controller to the positive end of my battery terminal...and unfortunately i've never dealt with doing anything to my battery before besides jumping the car so i was wondering how should i go about doing this? here is a photo of the instructions that came with my HID kit. thanks! http://www.hidxtra.com/ebay/bixenonSetup.jpg my car is the top photo H4 Bi-Xenon headlights.

mines a 98 4 banger camry with 180k on it now. HID's, 18" wheels, and a new suspension make my car drive like new :)

I've looked everywhere for aftermarket headlights and have come up with zip lol only thing I could suggest would be retrofitting something on your own.

I haven't personally tried this, but I know that VIPER alarm systems make a bypass specifically designed for toyotas with smart keys so I'd say that is your best shot!

leighcm is right forget about useing the bluetooth with an aftermarket, however i have seen some stereo's from pioneer that offer adapters to utilize factory steering wheel controls, don't know how well they work though never tried it :/

Anyone know a good place to get my aftermarket wheels repaired at a inhouse repair shop in the greater Philadelphia, PA area? i unfortunately nicked a curb and have some minor damage to the edge of the rim. thnx!

I actually get a bit of the stiff shifter too in my 98 camry but i found a solution. If you put the car in Park and let your foot off the brake and let the vehicle rest on the trans then try to shift out again it needs some force to get out. What i do is put my car in Park then put up the handbrake, Then take my foot off the brakes. Now whenever I shift out nof Park no forced needed :)

Hi, i just replaced my stock 14" rims/tires with some aftermarket 18"s and needed to know the proper tire pressure. The tire place put about 40psi in the front tires and 35 in the rear the max PSI the tires can take is 50psi. The car weights about 3200 w/ driver and my tires are Hankook Ventus V4 ES. I found a method of figuring out proper tire pressure but don't know if its right, take the vehicle weight+drivers weight divide by 100 to use as a base. So 3200 comes out to 32PSI. then add 2 Psi for OE sus, then 2PSI for heavier side of the car which would work out to 36psi front and 34psi back. Maybe? lol I have no idea, the pressures I'm running now feel/look/seem fine but i don't know if their right. Thanks for the advice!

thnx! :)