Toyota Owners Club

I know the noise you are referring to and I would be tempted to believe it is coming from the master cylinder side rather than the pedal side. It may just be worth pulling the master cylinder back from the servo and visually ensuring the actuating rod is in place and that nothing is untoward in the vicinity (leaking master cylinder, actuator rod not rubbing against anything, etc) Also worth checking the vacuum pipe connection is secure as sometimes if leaking it can create a rasping sound when the pedal is applied. This also applies to the pedal side where it can also be heard when the pedal is applied as the valve switches from vacuum to ambient air which works the servo diaphragm. If this is the case then you may need a new brake servo

Hi JayKay....welcome to the Forum Fine looking Avalon and always look best in white I reckon Great to have you onboard!

there is usually a release button located on the unit https://www.google.com/search?q=2007+Toyota+Avalon+DVD+release+button&rlz=1C5CHFA_enGB830GB831&oq=2007+Toyota+Avalon+DVD+release+button&aqs=chrome..69i57.9168j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Probably not worth getting the app as it seems there are issues of lack of support and the app disappearing over time

Sounds like loose connections in the engine bay if the running fault is associated with bumpy roads. Start with checking the battery connections and terminals are tight. Check the earth leads going to the engine/trans are tight and not damaged When the code appears again then leave running and fiddle with leads in the engine bay to see if anything changes in the way of running (Ford call this the 'wiggle test' and is by far the best way to diagnose where a fault is)

Thermostat would be my first thought and only other one would be the fact that the heater matrix may need another back-flushing if lots of debris came out on the previous flush then it may have dislodged more of it and it is sitting in the matrix. A temperature gun works well to measure various parts of the system to see where there is a hot or cold spot

Starter motor leads or connections, poor earth lead from battery, battery terminals not tight or starter is defective Check also the brake lights work, as could be a defective brake pedal switch

Did you replace the crank sensor with a reputable make? a lot of cheap aftermarket sensors (from dubious sources) don't work from the off and definitely worth trying a better quality sensor Also check you have spark/fuel, etc as this will not be present if the crank sensor is bad. If it is fuelling/sparking then it is unlikely to be the sensor at fault

Welcome to the Club quite a culture shock from BMW 5 series comfort to the Highlander Good to have you onboard!

I would recommend genuine Toyota belts as I have fitted quite a few to cars that have had the slipping belt syndrome. It appears that even the top belt manufacturers that I would fit are now made in China and fall way short of the mark. Turns out there is hardly any rubber content in the belts anymore and they slip no matter how much you tighten (overtighten) them Manufactured with a fabric coating to ensure high resistance and to reduce belt noise (to quote: 100% heat resistant ethylene propylene diene monomer (EPDM) rubber) Not just plain old rubber belts that were made for the job but did perish very quickly 😞

There are a few for sale in the UK so maybe have a look at some that are in similar condition and get an approximate value from there

That's a great old truck and getting quite rare now Got any photos of it you can post on here?

You could certainly try an external CD player plugged in through the USB and set to Aux

I think I would replace all of the spark plugs to start with (ensuring the gaps are correct as this can knock out the coils) and go from there to see if the misfire is cured. Replace any coils that are defective and easy to swap over to another cylinder to prove the coil if the fault changes to that cylinder

Wow! that's insanity. Certainly the weather/ambient temperature will have an effect on the batteries and charge rate but it certainly is not a viable form of transport if you encounter stations which are out of order or need to be somewhere in a set time. Thanks for sharing this information with the club....always handy to know if you are in the market for this model

I think I would refer to your local dealership on this one as it may have a revised pressure setting and the manual is outdated?

Hi....welcome to the Club Crikey, that sounds like a colorful car....post some pics up!

Maybe able to source some from Japan or Europe but watch out for carriage costs and import duties Its an easy enough job to change them and spring compressors are cheap to buy

I have experience this with mis-shaped tyres (bulge, not circular, etc) worth jacking up each wheel station and rotate the wheel to see if the tyre is completely round....you'll be surprised with what you find sometimes

Welcome to the Club Hope you're managing to work your way through all the different jobs in hand....sometimes take a little time to iron them all out but satisfying when you do get it sorted

It should be a case of carefully removing the trim parts (would use plastic trim tools or fingernails as much as possible otherwise damage to the plastic can occur if you use a screwdriver or pick). The parts snap together but sometimes they can break on the clips so glue may be needed to reassemble

Usually there is a wire that connects to the handbrake which signals the audio that the vehicle is stationary. It is a case of connecting it an earth (I believe) or actually to the handbrake switch

Suggest an urgent oil and filter change as well as an engine oil flush to ensure the engine is thoroughly clean

Hi fiercefelix ...welcome to the Forums Good to have you onboard!

Not sure if you have resolved this but does sound like something has dropped into a channel and is jamming the mechanism Can you try winding it open some more to see what is occurring in the channels where the roof slides