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humanoid

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Posts posted by humanoid

  1. 87 octane is plenty good for your Yaris. You don't need hight octane unless your engine knocks or pings or if you are tubocharged or supercharged. Buying higher octane, some say, yields better gas mileage, that's debateable. Save your money and just stay with 87 octane.

  2. Personally, I never wait more than 3000 miles for a total oil/filter change. And I am still using the Mobil Drive Clean 7500. I get good mileage with it, so you might do better with the Mobil 1 super synthetic. But I am hesitant to use ANY oil for more than 3000 miles. I think Humanoid has a good idea with 2 filter changes, but I don't do it.

    I also don't know about the BP oil. How long have they been making a synthetic? I used to use Nitrex sometimes.

    The 3000 mile oil change is the thing of the past, a waste of resources and just some oil company con job now. With oil technology these days, you can go well past 3000 miles. You can go 25K with Amsoil, but I would get an oil analysis first. I'm changing my oil out at the next 5K mile interval and will do an oil analysis then to find out how much longer I can extend the change interval.

    BP owns Castrol so I think we would be referring to Castrol here in the States rather than BP.

  3. I am planning to change the oil that i am using now for my toyota avalon 2005 from BP oil which is used for 5000 kilometer to Mobil1 super synth oil which is for 10000 kilometer so i want to know two things:

    - Is Mobil1 super synth oil that is for 10000 kilometer is better than BP oil that is for 5000 kilometer with telling the reasons?

    - Regarding Toyota Avalon 2005+ Engine Oil Filter, Can i use it with 10000 kilometer oil or its made only for 5000 kilometer oil?

    I'm unsure about the answer to your first question so I won't give you one purely on my speculation. As for the filter, I would change it out after the first 5000Km. The oil filter can only hold so much contaminants and it will get full. After that the contaminants the aren't filtered out will just be circulated in your engine, not a good thing. Just change out the oil filter at 5000Km and you should be OK. I go 5000 miles between oil changes and I change my filter out at 2500 miles just to be on the safe side.

  4. I have a 2003 sienna and my engine light is on. I ran the ob scanner and it came up bank 1 sensor 1 so I changed the sensor and the light came right back on, so I figuered it was a faulty sensor so I again replaced it.....and the light came right back on. :angry: has anyone experinced this and does anyone have any advise on what i should do, I will be needing and inpection SOON and I know it wont pass withthe light on.

    PLEASE help.... :(

    THanks

    Did you reset the code with the scanner? If you don't know how, just look in the fuse box for the big black square-ish looking fuse and pull that and leave it off for about 15 minutes and put in back in the slot. That should clear the code. If not, you'll have to clear it by undoing the negative battery terminal for the same amount of time and that should clear the codes. Make sure you don't have other codes in the computer, have your computer re-read to make sure there aren't other codes stored.

  5. Hey guys/gals...

    I work with a lady that has a 2000 Camry that needs the grill replaced. How difficult is that to do? I have a pretty high mechanical aptitude but wanted some expert :D advice before I agree to help her out.

    TIA!

    I'm pretty sure it's easy. I don't have a Camry, but I would suspect that you will need to remove some screws and or clips and you should be good to go.

  6. Located in SoCal, San Gabriel Valley, USA. Have a pair of Taco OEM leaf packs off a '99 PreRunner Xtra Cab. Has about 114K miles on them and will sell them for $50. Maybe good for a pack rebuild? No delivery, local pick-up only or I can meet you somewhere for the exchange if you are local. Reply to this thread or you can email me, thanks!

  7. Would the damage caused by cross-threading show up at the very next oil change or several oil changes later? Would there be any oil leak?

    Yes, there would be a great possibility that it would show up the next oil change and no, since the bolt was so tightly screwed up in there it wouldn't show any signs of leakage I would think. BTW, where is your car now since they couldn't tighten the bolt up, still at the $tealer?

  8. I own a 1998 Camry V-6 with 80,000 miles on it. I just had the oil changed at my Toyota dealership and I was informed that the drain plug wouldn't tighten up. I was told that the oil pan threads were worn out from "normal wear and tear" and that I would need a new oil pan.

    The dealership is one that I have just changed to after going to my origianl one since I bought the car. I have had the oil changed three times at the new dealership. This is my fourth Toyota and I have never had this happen before and I have never heard of anyone's Toyota having this problem. My last Camry had 190,000 miles on it before I sold it.

    Has anyone on this forum ever had this happen to them? I have an appointment to talk to the Toyota regional service manager on Monday.

    I think during one of the oil changes the knucle-dragger at the $tealer probably cross threaded it causing the drain bolt to not thread properly and messing up the threads. I think one option would be to have the threads re-threaded, but I'm not sure if that's feasible. The only other option I can think of is to change out the whole oil pan.

    The crap that happend to you is the reason why I do a lot of my own maintenance on my rig.

  9. I would check all the fuses to make sure any of them aren't busted. Also, does the car start OK? Did these problems start all of a sudden? This could be a sign of an old or dying battery and/or alternator.

  10. I would lik to change my spark plugs on my next oil change, but Imnot really sure what spark plugs would be best for my car. Are iridium spark plugs really that good and would they be good for my car. I would appreciate your suggestions.

    Stick with NGK or Denso. Iridium plugs... well, I guess they couldn't hurt too much, if you don't mind paying a premium for them.

  11. ~snipped

    Do I have to disconnect the battery and reconnect like for the engine check light?

    thanks

    Are you sure you checked all your exterior bulbs? That light should reset itself once you've replaced all the burnt bulbs. It sounds as though you have another burned out bulb somewhere.

  12. Double check the bulbs and see if they are burnt out. I'm not sure what type of bulbs you have, but if you have dual filament bulbs then I'm 99.9% sure one of the filaments/bulbs are burned out. You may also want to use some sandpaper and work the contacts on the bulb real good. One or more of your bulbs may have a bad contact with the connector. Keep us posted on your progress.

  13. The knuckledraggers at Firestone probably knocked a vacuum hose off near the throttle body when they were cleaning it. Check around for any signs of loose hoses at the like. I had did the same thing when I was cleaning my throttle body and accidently knocked a vacuum hose loose under the throttle body and my truck was idling very rough.

  14. Also, the best thing to do is have a trusted mechanic look at the problem if all of this confuses you. I know it can be overwhelming at times, but read up on things so you don't get duped by someone in the future.

  15. Steve - Yota's have the same problem as the Chevy's do. I know from experience as well as annecdotal evidence from members on other boards. They foul up the MAF and cause more headaches than they're worth IMO.

  16. P0130 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

    P0171 System too Lean (Bank 1)

    One of your O2 sensors may be bad or dirty. Do you have a K&N filter or other foam type filter that needs to be cleaned and oiled? It sounds like your MAF (mass air flow) sensor is dirty or something.

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