humanoid
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Posts posted by humanoid
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Synth fluids all around may help too... tranny, diff., crankcase etc. May cost a little more in the beginning, but may also increase performance and fuel mileage too.
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I realized that my 1.8l engine is capable of delivering more power than it does regularly. This has been proven by how well it runs after an oil/oil filter change. What I'd like to know is this: what are some fairly simple, risk-free (as much as it can be) mods that will improve overall performance, even just a little? It'd also be great if they're relatively cheap since I'm on a budget. Thanks for your ideas!
You have to also remember that you must sacrifice some gas mileage if you want some performance gains and vice-versa, nothing is free in this world.
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I just purchased a 2006 4-Runner without Daytime Running Lights (DRL). Has anyone had success in activating that feature and if so how did you do it? jeffc
You either have it or you don't, you can just "activate" it. Have you checked your owner's manual yet?
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I have first production year Tundra with valve pinging under heavy acceleration. Have done all I can to correct problem; including new ECU plug-in with TRD Supercharger. Changed plugs and thermostat when charger went in as per TRD. TRUCKS MOVES... BUT...SOUNDS LIKE HELL WHEN JUICED. The only thing now is to re-shim valve spacing. Any other help would be appreciated.
Try going over to Gadget's site at http://www.urdusa.com/ . He's got a lot of stuff there that may help your pinging. Many SC users have bought stuff from him and have been more than extremely satisfied. You may also want to check out http://www.tundrasolutions.com and ask the folks over there about your problem. Hope all this helps you out and keep us updated on your situation.
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I just bought this car in April/May (it was a used 2001), so I don't know when the last time pads/shoes were replaced.
Low brake fluid level isn't the problem; like I said, I have checked it numerous times and it's always at full.
No, there's nothing specific about the times it comes on. It's coming on most of the time now.
Most likely your brake pads/shoes are worn. Have a mechanic look at them, or you can do them yourself. Good luck!
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Can anyone tell me all the possible causes of an intermittent lighting of the brake warning light (on the dashboard)? I know some of them... the emergency brake is in fact all the way off, and the brake fluid has been consistently on the "full" mark. Could it be a simple problem with the switch making the car think the emergency brake is still on? Could it be a lot worse?
Any help you can give me before I spend a lot of money having it looked at would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Check the level of your brake fluid, it might be low. If so, fill it to the proper level. Also, if your fluid level is low it is also a sign that your brakes may need to be serviced. When was the last time they were serviced? Check your front pads and rear shoes. I bet one or both of them may need to be replaced.
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Hi all,
I recently purchaced an K&N typhoon (EU), 69-8752TR, for my sons 2005 GTS. After a couple of days the check engine light comes on. Resetting the code does no good. There were several vacuum lines disconnected during the install and no instructions on what to do with them.
I have contacted K&N, and they have told me that the typhoon is meant for european models only. And that they do not currently have an intake for the vehicle. However when you do a vehicle search, on their web site, for this vehicle, this part is one of many listed. I complained about the misinformation on the site, and was told that they were aware of the problem, sorry. The (EU) stands for Europe. Would have been nice to know when looking at K&N products.
I want to know if anyone else has installed a similar intake. And if they have had the same problem. Is there a work around?
thanks
Pushmatic - check out my post on another thread about the K&N below...
http://us.toyotaownersclub.com//index.php?...&st=0#entry1907
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So what happened with your MAF sensor? You ended up replacing it, or did you clean it?
It got gunked up with all the oil from the filter along with the dirt and dust that the K&N let through. I carefully cleaned the MAF with electrical contact cleaner, which you can get at any auto parts store. The link below will help you clean it the right way. Hope it helps.
http://4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/taco...ntenancep5.html
Just scroll down to the middle of the page.
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The FIPK is a worthless piece of junk. Many have had their MAF (mass air flow) sensors fouled up because the oil from the filter gunked it all up. BTW, after a few thousand miles, check the intake tube that leads to the engine. I bet if you rubbed your fingers on the interior of the tube you will find that your fingers will be covered with fine layer of soot-like material. Why? It's the crappy K&N filter letting all the dirt and dust getting by and getting into your engine. How do I know this? Because it has happened to me. Should have saved your money and did the deckplate mod (link below) with the same effect and performance for almost nothing.
As for the TB spacer, also a waste of $$$. Take a look at your intake plenum. I assume you have a 3.4L V6 engine. How is that swirled air supposed to make its way down to the combustion chamber? The air needs to go through those seperate openings and into the chamber while still being "swirled"? I think not. The spacer may work on carbed engines, but not on injected engines such as ours.
To sum things up, both items are a waste of money.
Below are some links for your reading pleasure, enjoy!
deckplate mod: http://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/jackso...e/deckplate.htm
http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=7...light=deckplate
TB spacer: http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=7...tle+body+spacer
http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=5...tle+body+spacer
Just a few threads from other sites to get your started.
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5k should be OK if you do mostly highway driving. If you're in a lot of stop and go traffic then 3k would probably be a better choice.
Tacoma won't start the 1st time
in Tacoma Club
Posted
I'm thinking the temperature may have a big part in what's happening. Does this also happen when the weather is warmer? Maybe the fuel pump needs to be looked at.