B-R-T
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Posts posted by B-R-T
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Mr. Ferdinand Porsche?
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Actually it's much easier to do it with manual ;)
Rev it up, release the clutch and have fun
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Who needs high beams when you've got HIDs, anyway?
High beams projects light diffrently. It "aims" higher and projects light much wider. But you don't need them if you are only driving in lit areas such as cities or suburbs.
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What model? :)
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Saw another very cool car on the road today:
New Audi A5...not bad. In "S" trim, it's somewhere around 350hp. Nice little cruiser.
My friend has an older S4. He's making 450hp on its 5 cyl 2.2L engine. He only reprogrammed his ECU for higher boost and remapped fuel/spark maps. Then he added larger intercooler and changed turbochargers coolant pump for higher flow.
S and RS for Audi is same as M for BMW. It's not just a trim. It's totally different car from A4 or A6.
I know alot of people who are driving Audi. From technical side it is almost perfect. It is more reliable then Mercedes or BMW. Audi 5 cyl engines are very strong. They can hold alot of additional power without a need to change any internal components. Transmissions are very good too.
Audi is a very reliable car. My friends father is still driving the good old Audi 80. Damn.. his car was built in 1982. And he never had any problems with engine or transmission.
I personaly don't like Audi. I don't know why... I just don't
Maybe because a lot of my firends has Audi. I don't like to be like everybody else
Oh, besides.. Audi and VW (Volkswagen) is the same carmaker
But Volkswagen was supposed to be making cheap cars for the people (Volk or folk) and Audi was making more expensive cars. It supposed to be until Volkswagen made a Phaeton So Volkswagen is not anymore a folk-wagon ;) -
As in "when your wheels actually spin and the tires get warmed up".
I know that, but when it's "proper"?
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Or you can get one decent kit for low beams and cheaper for high beams (crappy kit from ebay). I doub't that you will be using your high beams very often. At least when you still learning how to drive :)
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Much easier to do a proper burnout in an automatic. Yes, I understand that it CAN be done in a manual tranny, but it's more difficult. And you can alter the way your gears are shifting...think eShift, etc.
"Proper burnout" what a hell is that?
When it's considered to be not proper?
You can alter, but it takes time, and you have to do it before race. And if something goes wrong, you can't just lower your gear.. Besides.. it's still an auto tranny... it breakes..
Manual breakes too, but its not that sensitive for oil shortage (if you have an oil leak or something) or increased power. And you actually can change your gear ratios in manual. You only need to change diameter of a single gear that is responsible for changing torque for certain gear. I'm not saying that's something you can do at home or it's cheap, but it's much easier than changing entire planetary gear system of an auto tranny. -
This Micey will be faster anyway
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They WILL do that, but it'll still going to look like crap..
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IX looked better.. The only good thing, that the new impreza looks worse
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True...it just seems like it would be less fun. Honestly though, I haven't been able to drive a manual yet. However my grandpa isn't exactly a certified mechanic, but he's worked on tons and tons of cars, and once I get my license I'll be driving up there so he can help me replace the motor mounts. After that if I can find a cheap manual tranny cheap enough, we may go at that also. He says it's harder in the FWD cars because there's hardly any space to work with the tranny and the clutch...he's more into classic cars or newer RWD cars. But hopefully I'll have at least some sort of manual in *my* Camry sometime..
Of course he will help you. Only difference between RWD and FWD trannys are that FWD has differential inside of a gearbox and driveshafts connects to a transmission directly. In RWD differential is located in the back of a car, between the wheels and only thing that goes from tranny is a cardan shaft, which goes to a differencial. So its even easier to take out transmission in a RWD, because you don't have to take the driveshafts from wheels (and tranny). Which takes about 15 minutes and I had to do front wheel alignment afterwards
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Easier to drag race in an automatic...
You must be joking..
You will eat dust if you drag race with automatic (except CV tranny in some cases)
Auto tranny has VERY bad acceleration. It feels like your clutch is slipping when you step on gas pedal. Even if car is more powerful then opponents you still can be the second one, because you cannot alter the way your gears are shifting. And shifting is the most importatnt thing in drag racing. Horsepower is just second most important thing.
Yes it's easier to drag race with auto tranny, but easier is not always better ;)
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For heat transfer? Or grounding?
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hmm.. since when Mitsubishi is Toyota?
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This is cool...so Xenon HID lamps actually draw less power than the stock halogen bulb. But people are saying you need some kind of conversion kit? What's that about?
"Kit" includes two bulbs and two balasts ("starters" for each bulb). Your old bulb connectors connects to a balast and balast connects to a HID bulb.
You can choose whatever temperature you like. I don't know what do you want more, a good visibility or a "cool" looks.
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Xenon HID lights...hmm..alright I'll keep those in mind. They aren't obnoxiously blinding are they? People who do that sort of piss me off when I'm trying to drive.
They do not blind if headlights are aligned properly. And if you didn't forget to switch to low beams
But they are brighter (less temperature - more light). Like 4500K are very bright and just a little bluish. When temperature increases brightness decreases and light becomes more bluish until it becomes violet. Violet looks cool, but are not going to see a sh** Temperature doesn't change. All bulbs have they own temperature rating.
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Put xenon HID lights in these headlights. But not that cheap crap. Get those over $100 with balasts. Just don't go over 6500K of heat.
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Can you recommend any good sites to look for some of this stuff? I guess I could get the transmission itself from ebay....but I can't find decent clutch kits or shifters...or clutch pedals there. By the way, a short throw shifter just allows for faster shifting, right?
Site where I got my stock clutch kit (I later put a ceramic clutch disk on it from ClutchNet.com but you dont need racing parts for now):
http://www.carpartswholesale.com/cpw_store...;my=1&cat=h
Clutch kit.
http://www.carpartswholesale.com/cpw_store...mp;make_code=TO
Clutch master cylinder
http://www.carpartswholesale.com/cpw_store...mp;make_code=TO
Clutch slave cylinder
http://www.carpartswholesale.com/cpw_store...mp;make_code=TO
They don't sell pedals. You have to get something on ebay and make necessary modifications, or find a junk car (I think celica's pedals could work too). You will need a brake pedal too, because stock pedal is wider and you could press it when shifting.
Same with the shifter.
And you will probably going to have problems with ECU too, because there is a neutral saftey switch so you couldn't start your engine while in gear but you can short-circuit wires that are coming from that switch so it will be always on. And you have to wire backing-up lights to a switch on a manual tranny.
Yes, short shifter shortens distance between gears of your shifter. I don't have one. I think it was made for slow people
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You have to get flywheel for manual, because auto tranny flywheels has torque converters instead of pressure plates on them. So you probably will not going to find holes for bolts to fit a pressure plate.
You need a clutch kit so you can connect your engine to your tranny. When your clutch pedal is released, pressure plate presses clutch disk to a flywheel. Clutch disk is directly connected to transmissions imput shaft. So when pressure plate presses clutch disk to a flywheel clutch disks spins at same speed as an engine. When you press a clutch pedal you are releasing pressure plate so it is no longer pressing clutch disk. So pressure plate and flywheel spins @ engine speed and clutch disk spins @ transmission speed (or wheel speed with added gear ratios) or it's not spinning if car is not moving or if you're not in gear.
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Or a manual transmission. Hmm. :)
And I'm seeing these clutch kits and light weight flywheels....are those necessary?
EDIT:...and just browsing Ebay, I see tons of manual Celica transmissions, just not Camry ones. Didn't you say a Celica transmission would fit in a Camry? It says it fits 5SFE engines, which is what mine is, but it doesn't list it as fitting the Camry. What do you think?
EDIT: Like
This 93 Celica Transmission w/ 150k on it
or
It should fit. Transmission fits engine, not the car. You can get a stock flywheel (for manual, to fit a pressure plate), light weight F/W is not necessary. But you have to get a clutch kit (pressure plate + clutch disk + release bearing) and clutch master cylinder (and slave cylinde with lines if transmission doesnt comes with them). You also will need a clutch pedal and shifter with cables. Speed sensor may be different from auto tranny. Dont know about driveshafts though.
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Ok let's change the question a bit.
You're me, you've got $2,200USD to spend on your completely stock 2.2L 4cyl 94 Camry LE sedan. I'm curious what you'd get. Keep in mind the only thing I really bought so far was a pair of Pioneer speakers for the front doors....nothing else.
Thanks!
Basic turbo kit with crappy turbocharger and old-school fueling using FMU. Max 5-7psi. About 60hp. Still have to fiigure something out about ignition timing and knock detection (stock ECU has knock detection, but I don't know what its going to do when engine is knocking. It could retard ignition or simply light up check engine light). For 5psi of boost ignition timing is not necassary.
Or a manual transmission.
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Hi, make sure you are not removing or unplugging any Mass Air Sensor. Your car will not run without it. It's an electronic contraption which is normally built into the airtube between the air cleaner and the throttle body. To know what it looks like, go to www.autopartswarehouse.com and plug in your year make and model and look for "intake sensor" and you will see a pic of it. It meters all the air that goes into your engine, and if you bypass it, your car will not run since the computer would not be getting any info to run the car. A CAI is fine but you cannot do without that particular sensor. I've been there. Good luck, attached pic for you here
Do you think he's THAT stupid?
:lol: But yeah, you right about that. And engine can start and then die, because when ECU is not receiving voltage signal from MAF it will run in a "safe" mode, or will cut ignition.
I have MAP sansor it's easier to work with, and fueling is still accurate. Don't know why they are putting MAFs istead of MAPs though...
94 Camry LE 4cyl
in Camry Club
Posted
Don't drive too fast then