B-R-T
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Posts posted by B-R-T
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Bleed the fuel system.
If that doesn't help:
Could be the fuel pump. If the engine ran until the fuel tank got dry, fuel pump can be fried. If you don't smell any diesel from your tailpipe and dont see it dripping from after cranking it must be the pump.
Injection timing can be off. Diesel cannot combust if it's injected too early or too late.
Check the glow plugs, if it has any. If it's cold outside it's very hard to start the engine with only few glow plugs working... I couldn't start may car in winter with only 4 of 6 plugs working.
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I have a92 paseo andwant to do a swap to a 3sgte but i dont know if the speed o meter will match or the rewireing
process from the motor to the ecu can anyone help?
Speedometer signal doesn't go to ECU. It goes to a combination meter.
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I am replacing the CV axles on my 1996 CXamry. The driver's side came out fine but the passenger side refuses to budge (the bearing bolt is totally removed). Is there a trick to removing these axles?? I have been trying brute force with no luck.
Thanks for any help, suggestions or 'tricks of the trade"....
Get a puller tool
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Air in the hydraulic brake lines is a very bad thing. Liquid cannot compress - gas can. If any air pockets are in your system the brake fluid will not transfer all pressure from master cylinder to the calipers. So if your brake pedal feels "spongy" or you changed your brake calipers, you must bleed your brakes. Two people are required to do the bleeding.
First locate the bleeder valves. They should be located on the top of the inside side of the calipers.
Bleeding is done from the farthest wheel from the master cylinder. If it's on the drivers side (Left), then - Right rear -> left rear -> right front -> left front.
Clean the bleeder valve, connect a drain hose from bleeder to a some kind of container. Then ask someone to pump the brake pedal several times and then hold it down with moderate pressure. While someone is holding the brakes, slowly open the bleeder valve. After fluid mixed with air has stopped flowing, close the bleeder valve. Ask the guy who's holding the pedal to slowly release the pedal. Repeat this procedure until fluid that flows from the bleeder is clear and free of bubbles.
Repeat everything for all wheels.
Some warnings:
Always refill the brake system with fresh brake fluid. DO NOT reuse fluid that was drained.
DO NOT allow the master cylinder to run out of brake fluid during bleeding.
Clean master cylinder and cover before adding fluid.
DO NOT spill brake fluid on the car's body! It will REMOVE the paint.
Only use approved brake fluid.
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Recomended oil for 1NZ-FE (Toyota Echo) engine:
Cold climate: 5W/30 Semi-Synthetic
Moderate climate: 5W/30 Semi-Synthetic
Hot climate: 10W/30 Semi-Synthetic
Moderate climate, alternative: 15W/40
Why do you want to put something else?
Manual tranny - Gear oil - 75W/90
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Hi
I have a 2003 Toyota corolla RUNX Z Aero Tourer (2zzge) and I am thinking of going with the greddy emanage ultimate. Has anyone tuned with this unit or maybe the V manage? What gains can I expect to get out of using this on a N/A application?
Thanks
First get a good air fuel ratio meter (like Innovatine LC-1 with a wideband sensor and a gauge - ~$300).
I wouldn't recommend Ultimate or V-Manage for a stock N/A car. e-Manage blue will do the trick. It will increase power, but don't expect any miracles. Target AFR should be 12.5 - 13.1 for maximum power, but it will hit the fuel economy a bit. If you are putting an e-manage (or V-manage) for power, I would suggest to make some minor "addons". Like cold air intake, high flow air filter, better flowing exhaust manifold and the whole catback exhaust system.
One thing to consider when tuning.. ritch mixtures will upset your ECU. You can get an add-on for e-manage to turn off the O2 signal when RPM is over the setpoint, but this will cause a Check engine light to come on. There's nothing to worry about fuel mixture, cuz you will see actual fuel mixture inside your car (if you have wideband AFR gauge installed). You can't go too lean if you are only adjusting injector duty cycle additions and not the MAF/MAP voltage adjustments. But ignition should be tuned for richer mixture too.
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They have funny thing with older Saabs (prior O-Bus equiped vehicles). A DICE module is "married" to a factory stereo. If you just pull it out and put it in the other Saab it will not work, because it is still "married" to a DICE module of the old car
You first have to "divorce" the module from the old car, then "divorce" your old stereo from your car and then "marry" it to your car's DICE module It's like a soap opera
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..cranks for 7 – 12 seconds minimum before it will start
now that's crappy..
Does the fuel pump run with key in the on position? Or only after the starter is engaged?
If you don't hear the pump, it's most likely is not running. ECU turns on the pump, not the key. If Toyota didn't changed too much from my Corolla, it only runs, when engine is turning (when injectors and ignition system are "firing").
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I have a 2005 Camry LE, and have been dealing with a terrible left pull issue fo rthe past few months. First, took it to my normal maintenance shop, and they had said the alignment was bad off, so they fixed it. Car still pulled to the left. Got new tires, still pulled left. Took it back, and they adjusted the "camber" (??) rod, but still pulled left. Tok it back again, and the alignment was off AGAIN, so they fixed ... guess what? Still pulls left. I have had the tires rotated, still pulls left .... anyone else have this issue, and get it solved? I see a TSB ST002R-04, but can't get to the detilas without paying a fee. Please help, as I am tired of dealing with this, and my wife is tired of fighting the steering all the time. Not to mention this surely affects MPG and SAFETY!
Thanks for any help!
Try other repair shop. Appearently those guys don't know what they are doing. After they are done with alingment they should give you a sheet with Before-After data.
Ranges for Camry '05 front wheels shoud be:
Toe-in: from 0,12deg Negative to 0,12deg Positive
Camber: from 1,25deg Negative to 0,5deg Positive
Castor: from 1,47deg Negative to 3,17deg Positive
Front castor, and rear camber are not adjustable.
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SO, can anyone help tell me what gets gunked up?
Breather hose, EVAP purge hose, vacuum hose, idle air control valve.
I doubt about throttle plate, cuz my throttle is gunked up. It only affects gas pedal response after a heavy load, when alot of vacuum is created. It doesn't have anything to do with "cold" idle. Unless throttle is electronicaly controlled (with stepper motor).
I don't think it could be fuel system, but you could check fuel pressure, just in case.. If injectors or ignition system are bad DTC (misfire) will be generated.
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...saying it was gunk clogging something. I just forget what it was he said...
EVAP hose?
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Hello People, Norway speaking here, and i need some help to find out where that knocksensor is placed on the engine block..its a 3SGTE engine.. Someone out there, that got a pickture or something???
"intake" side of the engine:
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on the other hand.. valve timing can cause knocking. check the alingment of crank ant cam gears.
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remove manifold and check for warpage (exhaust manifold flange and head). put a new gasket.
about retighting.. it depends on material of manifold. If its stock (probably cast iron) - no. If it's stainless steel - yes
a week for a turbo swap?! 5 hours max.... better luck next time..
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sounds more like a drive belt
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1. Incorrect ignition timing. The car has started pinging or knocking when the accelerator is floored and the engine is under load. It didnt do this prior to the timing belt change. Not sure if incorrect timing and impropper combustion process would foul out the converter.
ignition timing by itself can't cause knocking. check spark plugs. if they show signs of extreme heat, put the ones, that are one step colder.
higher gas grade will help too.
about the cat..
cat's lifespan is about 95k miles. after that it could be useless.
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Need help urgently!!
While I drove to work, the engine started rumbling after 15 minutes at 80km. Then the engine lost power and I had to pull aside. After waited for 1 minute or 2, the car ran again (without shut down and restart the engine). This problem happened about 6 months ago and just a few time over this 6 months period. However, this happen every day recently especially in the wet weather. I took the car to the dealer for checking. They checked the fuel pump and found that the pressure was OK. The gas tank was fine. Then they switched the relay as well. At the end, they still did not find out the exact problem even using their computer to diagnoize (because this problem did not occured during their test drive).
Any advise how to fix it is much appreciated.
sounds like a misfire in one cylinder, caused by failing ignition coil. strange that they didn't checked that. did they found any DTCs? like misfire?
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Hey, I've been off of this site for awhile, but thanks to a new computer, I'm baaack!! I'd love to help you, but what you are asking is waaay over my head, even after 20 years as a Toyota parts dude. I know that there are more technologically adept folks out there somewhere. I hope they can contact you. I have always thought that one thing that makes a good "car guy" is knowing your limitations, and some of the tech and specs stuff certainly exceed mine. Let me know if I can help you with anything else.
Thanks anyway
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whatever the season. I did a service and told the tech about it awhile ago and he fixed it free of charge, saying it was gunk clogging something. I just forget what it was he said he did--he said it took a couple of seconds. After about six months the problem came back but I was told by three different techs three different theories which sounded like nothing the nice tech in Oregon told me he did, so I keep having to gas the idle when the engine is cold--a pain in traffic and on hills. The local Totota dealer here in NY (I now live in NY) said it was a $1000 + job to fix and I was like yeah right they don't do helpful fixes for blokes what work for their money--what did that other dude DO?
SO, can anyone help tell me what gets gunked up? Fuel injector treatment seems to help a teeny tiny bit better but it still stalls when just started and for about five minutes after. After five minutes of driving, it still idles rough till a little warmer...How does the fuel injector system work--is it an atomizer? Could it get clogged? Is there just one or four? Where are they how do I get at 'em? I had this tech do that little trick every six months over the course of 18 and it worked each time but what did he do!!? hahaha --asking him is not an option or I would...heh heh...Again when the engine is warm, it idles just like paradise even in bloody cold weather
vacuum system, ignition system, coolant temp sensor, idle air control valve. Probably cylinder head deformation. Compression is low when head is cold. when it heats up, aluminum expands and compression slightly increases. but thats the worst case.
first check for vacuum leaks. start the engine, open the hood and listen for hissing sound. check vacuum hoses
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Fuel filter, probably.
if it would be the fuel system it would had bad idle even when the car is warmed-up
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Damn rednecks..
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maybe you are in the wrong post?
"This section is for guides and tips only... Please DO NOT post questions here." -
Location?
1971 Toyota Corona Mark II Wagon
in Classic Toyota
Posted
Can't you fit one from a newer car? they didnt changed much.. In worst case you can put a new master cylinder with the booster too (if you can't fit your old cylinder on the booster). Pushrod from pedal should work with the new booster.
Unless you want everything OEM...