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Very nice touch. It is interesting to see what license plates from your country looks like. Different shape in front from the one in the back. Very smart. We in US have not figured that out yet. Both of our plates (in the states where front and back plates are needed) are the same size so they hang over the space allowed for the plate in the front. So they get bent easily. In what country did you get the upgraded lights?

What about the radiator cap or hoses. They could be leaking only when the pressure is up after the car has heated up. Alos, is there white smoke coming out of the tail pipe? If so the coolant could be leaking into the combustion areas of the engine and going out the tail pipe. That would be very obvious however. Clearly you are loosing coolant so it has to be going somewhere. Is there any leakage from the heater core? That too would have an obvious effect inside the car. There would be a sweet smell in the car. And the rug would be wet near the front passenger's feet.

I have several cars with this engine and I think that all filters will eventually drain. Some faster than others. I always use Fram. If I remove it shortly after running the car the oil runs all over the block. If I wait (sometimes I wait up to 1 hour to let all of the oil drip out of the oil pan) then the filter is empty when it is removed and there is no mess. I always change the oil immediatley after the car has been run for a while and fully warmed up. This ensures a complete removal of sediments that may sit in the engine if the oil is drained cold.

I just heard on Motor Week TV show that if you are having problems with the evap system, have the repair shop check the evap system with a smoke machine. Apparently many times the problem is due to a leak in the system, which can be hard to find without a smoke machine pumping pressurized smoke into the system which makes any leaks readily apparent. They also said that many times the problem is due to a bad gas cap. If is does not seal well you will get a "check engine light."

Sounds like the evaporative emissions canister is bad. There are also some valves that may be malfunctioning. I have the same problem with 2 of my 3 Toyotas. I am going to try and change the units myself this summer. They are near the gas tank. I have been looking for a guide for how to do it. At least my check engine light has not come on yet. This problem sometimes happens by the overfilling of the gas tank. When the gas pump stops do not top off the tank. This can lead to these problems.

I see no need to go with a synthetic. If you drain and refill every 40K you can probably get away from a full flush. If you wait until the recommended interval (probably 60-90K) I would recommend a complete flush. You can tell how bad the fluid is by the color (brown or black is not good. Red or orange is good. Smell the fluid too. It should not smell burnt. Regular service to the transmission fluid should make the trans mission last a very long time.

Sounds like the switch is bad. Since the light works with the 4 way flasher it is not the bulb or circuit to the bulb.

I have 2 toyotas that are very difficult to fill with fuel. One is a 2000 Camry with 105,000 miles, the other is a 2004 Corolla with 85,000 miles. The sensor on the gas filler nozzle keeps shutting the gas flow off from the pump. There is a service bulltetin on this. And it says you need certain diagnostic tools that the dealer only has. Has anyone ever fixed this problem in their driveway? I am handy with mechanical things. I know there are a few check valves in the system and the charcoal canister. How would I go about deciding what to try first. The check engine light is not on. The charcoal canister is expensive. Has anone done this? And could you provide some advice? Thanks.

I'm not sure about the fuse situation (ask the dealer) but I know that there is a resistor near the glove box that is probably the problem. The way it works is - there are resistors that limit the electrical current to slow the fan down. I understand that this is fairly easy to repair and inexpensive. In fact I have to do this same thing on my 2000 Camry.

If you are looking for longest lasting tires at a reasonable price check out Michelin X radials at Sam's club. They are warrantied for 80K miles. If you want low cost good tires (would last 35-40K miles) try Kumho. I have had Kumho and am very pleased with them Good performance, reasonable price, great smooth ride. Your struts should not be worn out at 55K and 8 years. Perhaps have an expert that you can trust check them. Or, look for any fluid leaks around where the piston goes into the cartridge (usually under a rubber protector). Also, bounce on the fender and the car should bounce up then come down to it's original position. If it bounces more than that they are shot. You have inherited a great car. I'm glad you want to take good care of it. It should last a long time. Remember to change fluids at the recommended intervals. Yes, even, power steering fluid, brake fluid, as well as coolant, oil, trans fluid. I wish you well.

I concur that it is likely the serpentine belt (or some belt) that is chirping. A method to test this is to open the hood with the motor running (and chirping) and spray some water on the belt (use a hose). The chirping should stop for a few seconds and then come back as the belt dries. It you don't like the chirping just have the belt changed. The chirping probably means that the belt is old and hardened enough that it should be replaced anyway.

Thanks for your advice. I think I'll just watch the oil level and if the smoking does not get worse just let it ride.

You have a filter which (I think) is behind the gove box. You probably can (if this is still like it was on 04 corollas) just open the glove box past it's normal stop and reach in and remove the cover of the filter area. Then the filter sides out and can be replaced or just cleaned. Be careful to keep any debris from falling off the filter when you take it out. It may have leaves etc that need to be removed wit the filter. Hope this helps. I just cleaned out my daughter's 04 corolla filter. It is not hard. Just be careful not to break any of the plastic parts.

My daughter's car, an 04 Corolla S, may need the charcoal canister replaced. The car is very difficult to fill with fuel. Anyone have experience like this? What is involved in replacing the canister. It has a lot of connections but it looks like it should not be too hard to remove. Any Advice?

I recommend that you resubmit this post onto the Avalon section of the website. This is the Camry section and Avalon readers probably are not looking on the Camry section.

I have an 2000 Camry 4 cylinder with 102K miles. Only on cold startup does a bit of blue smoke come out of the tailpipe. It just occurs right at startup and disappears within a second or 2. Warm startup no smoke at all. It is worse in cold weather than warm weather. What could be the problem? And what could be damamged if I let it go and didn't fix it. Are the valve guides leaking? How would I fix this? How complicated is it? Or could it be just a need for valve adjustment?

Since the auto manufacturer made the car I'm sure they are best to tell us how to maintain it. It is a waste of resources to change the oil every 3K miles. That is old school. Just follow the manufacturer's recommendations on all items and you will be in good shape for many many miles.

Uneven wear on brake pads is usually due to a restricted slider due to corrosion. Since the wheel has one caliper piston the pressure is equalized by the caliper sliding. That sliding needs to be able to occur with a minimum of friction. On the alignment situation, I would say that the person doing the alignment for the 2nd time in a week should have tested the car for worn parts before charging for a second alignment. If he can not determine what is wrong, definitely go to someone else.

I have an 04 Corolla S with the mag wheels. I have had lots of problems with air leaks around the valve stems. This is probably due to corrosion from winter salting of roads. Any one else have same problem? How did you reslove the issue?

What you heard was timer bell. What they said was timing belt. Per the instruction manual it should be changed at 90K miles. (or 144K km) . The timing belt is made of rubber so it ages with time and miles (or kilometers). I too have a 2000 Camry with over 100K miles on it. I have not chnged the belt yet. I would say in the next year you should consider getting it changed since it will be 10 years old. I have heard of people getting much more mileage than 90K miles out of a timing belt but why risk it. I would say after 10 years just get it done. You might investigate what other items ( like serpentine belt, water pump) should be changed at the same time since they are easy and cheap to replace when replaing the timing belt. Perhaps other can give you a more complete list of items to consider replacing when the timing belt is done. Good luck.

It is very possible that you need new brake pads. They usually last about 40K miles. There are wear indicators on the pads (if they are toyota pads) that make a noise when applying the brakes when the pads are thin enough to need replacing. (The noise is a faint screeching sound). They can also be looked at visually to see if they need to be replaced. Regarding resurfacing of rotors. It can be done but it is usually better to replace them with new ones. It is very difficult to resurface them without removing so much metal that they become susceptible to warpage. The serpentine belt could be in need of replacement but usually after just 4 years and 73K miles it might still be good. Look for cracks in the rubber. That is a sign of needing to be replaced. It might be safe to get it replaced just to make sure it does not break. However I have 2 - 2000 Camrys that have their original serpentine belts (at 105K and 75K miles) so the condition of the belt must be determined by inspection. Maybe take the car to someone else you trust to get a 2nd opinion.

I'm curious too because my daughter with an 04 Corolla S wonders the same thing. Sorry I do not myself know how it could be done.

Your problem is so timely. I had a similar problem that I found to be a leak in the low pressure return line. I have a 2000 Camry with 99K miles. We live in an area where salt is used on the roads in the winter. The metal return line rusted through. Dealer wanted $250 for the parts ( a set of the high and low pressure lines. I went to NAPA and bought a foot length of 3/8 ich ID tubing (I think it is gas line tubing). I used an electric hack saw to cut through the line a couple inches to one side of the leak. Then I put the tubing in the microwave for about 30 seconds to warm it up (which expands it). I picked it up with a pliers (since it is hot) you could use gloves if ou choose. And then I quickly slid it onto the return line several inches past the leak. (I used about 6 inch length). I put a clamp at both ends and inserted the other side of the line into the end of the tubing and tightened the clamps. It is a little messy because the steering fluid is leaking all over my hands and arm. I drove the car up on ramps to do the job. I worked great and cost me a total of $10, which includes the cost of the new power steering fluid (which is automatic transmission fluid). It took a little while to get the air purged out of the system and get the level right in the reservior but I'm sure I saved $500 with labor. Maybe this is your problem. Hope this helps. If you are not interesed in getting into this messy job have an independent mechanic do it would probably be the cheapest route. I could od it for you if you are in the vicinity of Grand Island, NY.

Do they use any salt on the roads when it snows or gets icy?

You beat me by a lot. I have 2000 Camry with 99K, 2000 Solara with 75k. Have you replaced the power steering lines? I am just now on the Camry. They are leaking due to corrosion.