Moffmo
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Install a Tachtometer/Rev gauge - EXTERNAL LINK*
* TOC cannot be held responsible for information, images etc for external links (blah blah
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Thanks to a dude called dj_davo
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HOW TO CHANGE YOUR COOLANT IN YOUR MR2 MK11.
maybe not definitive - but i did it this way and it worked a treat :-)
1.set fan to hot
2. remove spare wheel and all bonnet area plastic trim. (behind spare wheel, and on top of rad - front of car).
3. under front bumper (jacking up will help), on drivers side at bottom of rad is a little black tap thing (mine also has a clear hose attached). put a plastic jug or similar nearby and undo the tap. catch the coolant that will pour out in your jug (or let it spill on floor if you're messy)!
I GOT ABOUT 4 LITRES FROM THIS AREA.
4. you could now move to back of car and locate the engine bottom hoses (there are 2 major ones just behind seat area and just infront of engine. (jacking up rear of car will certainly help - as may removing underbody plastic trim).
i couldnt find a tap and i assume most people would crimp or undo the retaining clip and pull off the hoses letting the coolant spill out. I DIDN'T DO ANY OF THIS!
5. i cut corners and instead i used a hosepipe to blast down the main filling point on the engine upper hose (passenger side metal lid) and forced any remaining coolant to come out of front rad drain plug. do this until clear. i.e no red/brown coolant left.
6. tighten up lower rad tap and start to refill with new coolant (at main filling point - as above). do it slowly as air will get trapped. EXPECT TO TAKE AN HOUR NOW!
7. when coolant reaches top of pipe (with me, v. frequently - took a good 5 mins to get down 1/2 litre) go to front of car and bleed. there is a new bleed valve to work on now. behind spare wheel trim (which u have already removed) on bulkhead of car, bang in middle, there is a little while cap with a flat screwdriver hole in it. this is the bleed valve for the heater system. (mine also has a clear hose attached which makes the job easier). undo the cap until air/liquid comes out. when the air stops and it is just coolant, tighten up.
8. now go back under car and bleed the lower rad tap (which u will have tightened up b4 filling up with new coolant right?!) undo this until air stops and coolant comes out. re tighten.
9. go back and fill up some more coolant into the main area (engine bay) again until coolant reaches top again.
KEEP DOING THIS WHOLE FILLING / BLEEDING PROCESS UNTIL SYSTEM COMPLETELY FULL. EXPECT TO TAKE AN HOUR AND ABOUT 5 LITRES. MY TURBO HOLDS 7.5 LITRES.
10. when you think you can get no more coolant in, go to rad top valve (passenger side), hidden under the plastic trim that you removed at start - right?!). open this valve, there may be lots of air (and maybe no coolant coming out). when all air has stopped, go back and fill some more at main filling area. MINE NOW TOOK ANOTHER 2 LITRES QUICKLY WITHOUT BLEEDING ANY MORE! when coolant comes out of top rad valve, close it.
11. top up main filling area until nearly at top. put lid back on.
12. fill expansion bottle to top marker (just before neck of top tube). if empty you may get a litre or so in here.
13. run engine until warm and allow to cool. top up at main filling point if neccesary. DO THIS A COUPLE OF TIMES.
14. DRIVE YOUR CAR HAPPY IN THE KNOWLEDGE THAT U HAVE NEW COOLANT IN AND DON'T HAVE TO DO THIS JOB FOR ANOTHER 2 YEARS!
to quickly sum up:
tools needed: 1 flat blade screwdriver, maybe some pliers (if rad valves too tight). car jack (maybe 2).
remove spare wheel and all bonnet area black plastic trim, exposing rad top valve (passenger side) and heater valve (white screwdriver lid).
7.5 litres of toyota red coolant
1 to 2 hours of time and patience.
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Nice lil quick guide from a dude called ryan
I find it easiest to first remove the crew just under the left of the steering wheel and the cigarette lighter. I normally store these bits and bobs in the ashtry as it's never used for safe keeping.Next remove the gearnob and lift the gator (all thought htis doesn't have to be done I find it easier to remove the center console without it in place (be careful not to snap the plastic gator surround).
Pull out the ashtray and remove the 2 screws below it (again I store these in the ashtray).
Now all the screws are out it's time to take the centre console out, starting at the sterring wheel end pull with medium force as low as you can, bottom left of the steering wheel, this should now come away enabling you to work your way around the centre console releasing all of it. You will need to pull out the two cable connected to the cigarette lighter (one led and one power) and the centre air con vents (be careful with these as they have a tendancy to snap. The rest should pul away nice and easily.
To replace the console just do the same in reverse.....
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As far as i know, corollas dont come with a rev meter at all.
having driven a car without a rev meter i found it very hard to know how much grunt you *could* give it.
Well..........
On my sad, but useful net travels i came across this website...
How to install a tachometer/Rev gauge
Please note that this is a EXTERNAL link and is not Affialated with TOC in any way, so therefore cannot be responsible for anything this website may contain
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As the corolla seems to be a popular section i thought i would link you to a brillant guide by system~g.
The photos are off a corolla so you can worship his class :D
http://us.toyotaownersclub.com/index.php?s...view=getnewpost
Thanks
Matt
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Toyota Front Brake Disc/Pad Replacement
How-To - Part 3
17] Put the piece of 18mm wood on top of the piston and then tightening the G-Clamp push the piston back into the cylinder of the calliper. Make sure you place a dirty rag around your brake fluid reservoir BEFORE pushing the calliper into the cylinder as fluid is likely to overspill and will make a mess of your drive and engine bay... Doh!
18] Replace the calliper by fitting it over the pads. Apply some copper grease to the two bolts and bolt calliper into original position in the bracket.
19] Clean off excess visible copper grease from shims / pads with a cloth (do not use metholated spirits).
20] Refit wheel
21] Jack the car up and remove axle stand
22] Drop car back down and tighten wheel nuts as you normally would and directed in manual.
23] Pump the brake pedal a couple of times.
24] Repeat procedure on opposite side and take the car for a very slow test drive. Avoid high speeds and sudden harsh braking.
25] Check your wheel nuts are still tight once you get back from your test drive
26] Stand back and admire your work.
27] If all is well drive car very carefully with no sharp braking for first 100 - 150 miles and let the pads and discs “Bed-In”. Failure to do this will cause discs to warp & possibly crack. The pads can break down too ultimately not stopping you, potentially causing death... NOTE: That during this “bedding-in” period the brakes may feel a little spongy and unresponsive. This is normal. Once you have completed 100 -200 miles you will notice the brakes to be much improved over the originals.
28] Check all wheel nuts and all other bolts are still tight after the “bedding-in” period.
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Toyota Front Brake Disc/Pad Replacement
How-To - Part 2
10] Fit the new disc to the hub and hold it in place with two of the wheel nuts.
11] Clean the calliper bracket using the wire brush and metholated spirits and apply some copper grease to the four areas where the bracket makes contact with the calliper and hub.
12] Replace the bracket by fitting over the new disc. Apply a small amount of the LocTite to the bolt threads and bolt the bracket in place.
13] Clean the new pads with metholated spirits and fit the old wear indicator clips (taking note of their original position) and apply a thin, even layer of copper grease on the back of the pad and refit the old anti squeal shims. (Note: Some cars will not have these shims. Do not worry, just put an even layer of copper grease on the back of the pad. My brakes did not have the shims - thus these photos do not show them.). Refit the pads into the bracket.
14] Clean the retaining springs with metholated spirits and re-fit them to the pads in the same way they were before they were removed from the old pads.
15] Clean the visible sides of the shims (or pads if shim not available) with metholated spirits and apply a thin, even layer of copper grease.
16] Take the clean calliper and note the position of the piston. It should still be raised.
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This applies for most modern cars.
This fantastic guide is by system g, None of this work is mine.
Toyota Front Brake Disc/Pad Replacement
How-To - Part 1
The following is a step by step guide with photos describing the replacement of the discs and pads for most Toyota vehicles. There may be some slight variants and some differences in models, but the basic principle remains. Various problems can be encountered and a little technical savvy may be needed to overcome these obstacles. I have written this How-to based on my experiences with MR2’s and Corolla’s.
When replacing any brake components, the work must be done “per axle” i.e. both driver and passenger sides. If for instance the pads only need changing on the passenger side, then you will also need to do the pads on the drivers’ side.
Read this How-To thoroughly from beginning to end before attempting to undertake the work yourself. If you are not technically minded or do not have the confidence take you car (along with the parts) to a garage to get it done properly. Your car will not stop without any brakes or faulty brakes and can cause serious injury or even death.
Although the work is easy for many of us, you can not hold the club or me responsible for any incompetence or lack of technical ability on your part.
I reiterate; if in doubt, get a competent person to assist or oversee the work.
Parts Needed:
* Replacement Discs
* Replacement Pads
* Copper Grease
* Tie-Wraps / Cable Ties / Bailing-Wire
* Metholated Spirits
* WD40
* LocTite Blue
* Old Rags (to catch oil)
* Clean Rags
* Jack
* Axle Stand
* Wire Brush
* Ratchet / Ring Spanners
* G-Clamp
* 18mm block of wood
How-To:
1] Park vehicle on flat surface with handbrake on securely but left out of gear. Place anti-roll wedge (included in most Toyota tool kits) or brick behind the opposite rear tyre to avoid car rolling back. Loosen slightly (but do not remove) wheel nuts. Jack car up and place on Axle Stand. Do not leave the car on the jack!!! Remove the jack and place wheel under sill (outside up to avoid scratching the wheel). Continue to remove wheel.
2] Remove the calliper from the calliper bracket, by loosening and removing the two bolts shown.
Be careful not to damage the rubber seals.3] Suspend the calliper using cable-ties or bailing-wire from the suspension spring. Avoid putting strain on the brake hose.
4] Remove old pads from calliper bracket. Take note of the position of the tension springs, wear indicator clips and anti-squeal shims on the pad and remove. There is no need to remove any pins or clips from the bracket. Remove any rust and dust from the calliper with the wire brush. Do not inhale any dust. Clean the calliper and inside of the piston with metholated spirits.
If replacing the Pad only - skip to step No.135] Remove the calliper bracket by loosening and removing the bolts shown below.
6] The disc now should be able to be pulled off easily. However, if no copper grease was used on previous installation, the disc may seem to be fixed to the hub. You can either use a special removal tool available for around £15 from Halfords or get a couple of bolts and screw them into the two threaded holes not taken up by the wheel nut threads. These holes go through the discs and when putting bolts through them, the bolts will push against the hub, pulling the disc free.
7] Clean off all rust and dust from the hub with the wire brush. Do not inhale any dust. Remove all traces of grease (copper or otherwise) from the hub with a cloth and the metholated spirits. Clean all the bolts with metholated spirits and apply a generous amount of WD40 to the two bolts that hold the bracket in place.
8] Apply a generous and even coating of copper grease to the hub. Try not get too much of the grease onto the wheel nut bolt threads.
9] Clean the new replacement disc with the metholated spirits to remove any production oils or packaging agents. Apply a thin and even coating of copper grease to the inside where the disc will meet the hub when in place.
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thats very interesting, i never realised that it would affect handling as such, all i knew is that if you got the offset too wrong you would be rubbing on the arches
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Well i never would have guess lexus and toyota were the same company, i was very surprised when i found out.
But even now i see lexus as luxury cars, and toyota as down to earth cars..
and i see the is200 as a drift machine :D (the effects of a LOC meet ;))
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How to fit an aftermarket headunit(CD player etc) in the cash slot! by Moffmo
Differences between Phase 1 and Phase 2 echos by moffmo
A Toyota Yaris Stealth Installation: 6cd Mp3 Multichanger by whsmither
Changing Springs and Shocks on echo, guide by jaxx
Fitting Springs - GUIDE, With pictures!!, by Norm and Earpl
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Pictures are a bit naff but it helps netherless
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Fitting a fujubitso power getter to a 2003 yaris T-sport, by Earpl & Norm.
firstly I’d just like to point out that the more amateur mechanics may like to do this in the dry, light etc preferably inside. not outside at night in the snow like we did :) this should be the same for pretty much any back box designed for the yaris cause the pipe & mounts should line up. hopefully :).
Tools required;
· long reach socket (12/13mm cant remember….. again? )
· about a 6” extension, if you haven’t got one, guys I recommend one as I really needed a 6” extension as I was lacking.
· a ratchet to suit the sockets.
· a large and a small flat bladed screwdrivers.
· hammer
· wd40 or something similar.
Remember when working under cars always support them! and preferably don’t do it alone just incase.
hope this is easy enough :)
1/. find the clamp on the rear of the back box pipe.
2/. undo the bolt (don’t worry you wont loose the nut as its captivated).
3/. hit it gently with the hammer so it comes loose then bend it. yet again just a bit and gently, so it will slide down the pipe (as shown)
4/. spray oil on the rubber mounts and small screwdriver to lubricate and the idea is to get the rubber over the lip of the mount & then push over with big screwdriver, do this carefully so you don’t slip & hurt your self.
5/. do it to both the mounts. which look like this.
and this,
6/. remove the standard back box.
7/. put the new seal (comes with fujitsbo) on the end of the tail pipe, after removing the old one of course ( may require a gentle thrash :P .
8/. put the mounting ring on the fujitsbo (taking time to look at it and say…”hmm shiny shiny bling bling”) . oh yeah line the nipple up with the rings hole. :P
9/. Put the new zorst in the same way the old one came out. line up the pipes and push the pegs in the mounts.
10/. put the clamp back in place with the seal in the right place, + put the ring back on. this can be a bit tricky so it helps to have another pair of hands (NORM :D ) to push the pipes together whilst you put the clamp on.
11/. I think that’s it. it should look a little like this.
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Handy info and downloads
Yaris Verso Workshop Manual
an excellent set of guides on
- Yaris Verso Echo Verso Electrical Wiring Diagram
- Yaris Verso Echo Verso Repair Manual for Chassis and Body
- Yaris Echo Repair Manual Supplement for Chassis and Body
for you to download, thanks to Robie (hosting), Yves, earpl and norm for contributing.
this is great for learning the basics, and some bits are revelant for the normal yaris
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30/. compress the spring
31/. take the compressors off.
32/. new and old :)
33/.the flat side of this must face the inside of the car.
34/. fit new spring with rubber seat in place.
35/. get your wheel....... and fit it.
36/. repeat for other side.
37/. clean up :)
38/. hope fully it should look something like this :)
now hope fully things went ok, remember this is only a guide, i apologise if i left anything out.
cheers Earpl and norm.......
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20/. put the strut back in place, and put the tower nuts on to hold it in place.
21/.do them up properly because trained monkey (norm) shears the threads in the nuts :(
22/.put the bolts back in the bottom of the strut.
23/. tighten them up.
24/. Hit your yaris in frustration.
25/.put your wheel back on and lower the car down onto a board because its too low to get the jack out!!!
26/. repeat for the other side :)
27/. your at the 1/2 way mark. stop for a well earned smoke.
28/. take your back wheel off (after jacking etc) :)
29/. da daaaa
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10/. remove rubber gaitor.
11/. remove comressed spring and then remove spring compressors.
12/. you should be left with a spring less strut.
13/. You should be left with all this.
14/.put the new spring on makeing sure its seated properly in the notch (as shown)
15/.put the top back on, bearing leather seal etc.
16/. put the nut back on top of the strut.
17/. grease it (if possible) and put the plastic cap back on.
18/. line the plate up with spring as shown.
19/. use the assembled strut to comfort the fact you have a small *****.
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Lowering Springs. By earpl and norm. (from TOC UK(Thanks guys!!))
This following guide is on how to change your original springs on your yaris with a st of lowering springs. (this was performed on a 2003 yaris T sport, so i apologise for any differences) weve also tried to make it as easy & fun as possible. Cheers Earpl & Norm.
Plus my car is fitted with a strut brace, so replacing the turret nuts only appled to that, other wise keep the nuts.
This is a job that you want to tackle inside, so get a garage or if your going to do it outside, pick a good day & start early.
Tools Used.
*12,13mm combination spanners (ring on one end, open ended on the other), these are for the suspention turret nuts.
*17, 19mm sockets (1/2" drive) and combi spanners.
*1/2" drive wratchet.
*Loctite stud lock.
*wheel brace,locking wheel nut key etc.
*one set of spring compressors.
* other tools that can help, full metric set of spanners & sockets.
hammer etc.
*axel stands
*Jack
*rubber or plastic mallet.
*bench vice
1/. Jack up the car & remove the wheel nuts. (loosen them before jacking up car.) ****ALWAYS SUPPORT THE CAR WHEN WORKING UNDER IT NEVER RELY ON THE JACK***
2/. Remove the strut turret nuts, but be carefull with these as you could round the heads off, so where possible try to use the ring spanner. and if its too tight try to tap it loose, dont pull & rost at it. leave one on but loose so the strut doesnt drop out later.
3/. Remove the brake lines from back of the strut take out the bolt, *note which way the abs & brake pipe mounting plates go on for when you put it all back.
4/. remove the two bolts from the bottom of the strut, i believe these are 19mm but they could be 17mm. the plastic mallet can be used to knock out the bolts, if not a piece of wood & a hammer ( so you dont damage the threads)
5/. You should now beable to remove the strut, after taking off the loose nut on the strut tower. shown here modeled by norm :)
6/. compress the spring using the spring compressors.
7/. clamp this part (as shown in the pic) in a vice supporting the other end of the strut, so you dont bend the the plate. be gentle.
8/. Undo the nut at the top of the strut, whilst plate is clamped. **MAKE SURE SPRING COMPRESSORS ARE ON**
9/. remove the top plate containing bearing ( dont let any **** get in the bearing).
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this was one of my first mods, helped me out NO END
My dad and my mum thought i was stupid, but now they are impressed
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wow they seem very cheap.
we pay well in excess at least 500$ for some decent shocks
Rip off britain
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This is a a guide how to change your shocks and springs in an echo....
This was written by Jaxx, (hes on here, from the UK forum...) ALL credits to him...
This was done on a T-Sport but i would asume that the same setup is the same throughout the echo range (?)
Also the new bits were TTE springs and Koni adjustable shock absorbers
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A few pointers and notes first
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I aim to show this towards an amature car mechanic but also has an amount of basic knowledge on a car. I myself am like this in the respect that, i know where everything is on a car, what it does and how it works (nearly) but i may not be fully aware on how to do something properly or possibly know the best way about doing something.
So if there are any critical errors within this write up then let me know!
I cant remember all the different nut sizes and what was where so ill possibly just refere to 'remove the nut' for example. Just try and gather the tools i recommend and work from there.
I wish i could add pics to this as i go but unfortunately no good stuff is availble!
Some words will be abreviated and maybe slang! Sorry if they dont make sense let me know and ill make ammends!
Oh yeah - complete satisfaction when ya complete somat like this yaself!
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What you need
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A quick run down of some ideal tools and other stuff.
Somewhere flat, level, solid and possibly sheltered (car port or garage) incase of any weather changes!
A good set of C and ring spanners (10mm to about 22mm)
An adjustable spanner if desired aswell
Socket set (possibly 1/4'' and 1/2'' tackle if possible? Special strut socket - read on later)
Set of metric allen keys
Small lump hammer and maybe a rubber mallet.
Spring compressors
Wheel brace (and ya locknut key!)
A good trolly jack (possibly get a second if possible although its not critical it can be really handy at some points)
A few bits of board (ie foot square pieces of MDF or something. ill explain in a bit biggrin.gif )
A couple of axle stands
One of them magnetic trays to keep nuts an bolts in, and another couple of containers to keep gubbins safe!
Pot of grease/coppa slip or equiv.
Tip-ex pen
Latex gloves (its either that or ya loose knuckles and other bits of skin! also stops grease and dirt gettin embeded in the skin)
A friend! (An extra set of hands is crucial!!!!)
A few select swearwords if desired!
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Ok here goes.
Im going to start with the back as this is the easiest bit then work to the more tricky front end.
This can be done without even removing a wheel and the springs can be done without even undoing a bolt! (Bar the spring compressors!)
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REAR SPRINGS
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1. Set the car on somewhere level, flat.
2. Use a trolly jack to lift the car so it is possible to easily work beneath the rear end.
3. Use axle stands to support the car in the air, but place them just behind the chassis members that run the length of the vehicle at the front of the beam axle (the black bit that goes from wheel to wheel - placing them on the rear of the axle will cause th rear of the car to sink when you remove the springs!)
4. Place the spring compressors on one side and tighten the nuts equally a bit at a time to squash the spring.
5. Once its small enough take it out of the spring cups.
6. Pull off the rubber seat stuck to the spring and put it on the new spring.
7. Release the compressors from the old spring Aand compress new spring.
8. Sit it back in the spring cups on the car and begin to release the compressors, again a bit at a time either side so the open equally. Observe that the spring is sitting in the cup at alltimes or itll pop out if ya not careful when drivin! Not good)
9. Once its in do the same on the other side.
10. Remove the stands and lower back down.
11. You have just dropped the back end by XXmm!!!
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REAR SHOCKS
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1. Open the boot
2. Look on top of the wheel well and remove the plastic cap on top
3. There is two nuts on top of a stud stuck out. You need two spanners of the same size.
4. Place one spanner on the bottom nut and hold it tight, then release the nut on top with the other spanner and remove it.
5. Now put an allen key in the top of the stud to hold the ram still (or it spins round) and remove the bottom nut from the stud. With them off pull off the rubber mount aswell.
6. Now jack the car up by lifting it with the jack placed under the spring cup from the rear of the car. (Lifting it here helps prevent the spring falling out)
7. Now release the nut from the bottom of the strut holdin it to the suspension arm.
8. Remove the nut and washer and put them safe.
9. Pull the strut off the stud at the btm and it should pull down from up the back of the wheel.
10. Pull off the dirt sheild/cover from the shock
11. Now get the new shock (and in this case the Koni adjustable ones) and if applicable do any adjustment to it you desire.
12. Replace the dirt cover onto the ram.
13. Extend the ram to about 2/3 or 3/4 of its full extended length. **CAUTION** NEVER USE ANY TYPE OF GRIP OR CLAMP THE RAM ITSELF IN A VICE OR THE LIKE OR YOULL RISK DAMAGING THE SURFACE AND THIS KNACKERS IT UP!! GRIP IT JUST BELOW THE STUD THREADS ON THE TOP (AS NOT TO DAMAGE THEM EITHER) AND PULL IT OUT.
14. Once its like this it should reach from top to bottom.
15. Looking under the car you should be able to see up behind the wheel and light shining through the stud hole at the top.
16. Feed the shock up so the stud goes through the hole and then push the bottom of the shock onto the stud on the suspension arm. MAKE SURE ITS THE RIGHT WAY ROUND, THE STUD WILL BE TAPERED AND SO SHOULD THE BUSH IN THE BOTTOM OF THE SHOCK.
17. Now replace the nut and washer at the bottom.
18. Lower the car to the ground.
19. Now get the stud nuts again (in the case of the Konis, new bigger nuts are supplied).
20. Now replace the rubber mount thingy you took off before. Ensure that it sits back in the hole properly.
21. Bit of copa slip on the stud and then use allen key and spanner to replace the first nut. It will feel like its not gonna get tight because of the rubber mounting. Use judgement for when its ok and feels tight enough.
22. Now spin on the other nut and lock it down against the first one.
23. Replace the trim cap
24. Sorted!!! Repeat on the other side.
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FRONT SHOCKS AND SPRINGS
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Ok these are the more tricky ones which definately require a 2nd pair of hands
Now this is my rendition of how to do this if you know or find a better way of doing anything in particular then do so.
The way im going to explain this includes removing the front wipers and all the 'scuttle panel' from the bottom of the windscreen. I recommend this way as the nuts on top of the strut tower are very tricky to get to otherwise. You can attempt to remove them with a normal spanner although they are very tight and it is very easy to round them off. Removing the panels allows easy access with a ratchet to prevent rounding them and to add torque back on when replacing them.
Here goes then
---Removing strut
1. On the windscreen wipers open the flap at the very bottom to get to the nut.
2. Undo the nut and then pull the wiper away from the serated spline, dont try and twist it as it will open up the hole, the splines help to turn the wiper without skipping.
3. Pop the bonnet open
4. Unscrew the small black screws ontop of the plastic section at the end of the screen, dont try and unscrew them all the way just until they stop retracting, you can then just tug them out(sort of a special clip)
5. Pull off the rubber bit along the front and then remove the plastics in two bits
6. Now undo the bolts with a socket that are holding the metal section on that has now been exposed, they are here there and everywhere so just look closely for them. Your best releasing the nust for the wiper motor aswell cos i think one of those holds it on aswell.
7. This is where a friends handy as you now need to wiggle and manouver the metal section out of the car TRY NOT TO MOVE THE WIPER MOTOR TOO MUCH OR DAMAGE THE LINKAGAES
8. Now starting on one of the strut tops - ideally do one at a time start to finish
9. Undo the three small nuts around the top of the suspension mount - be careful as they can be very tight - a bit of heat sometimes helps to free them.
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while just at this point it may be possible to release (DONT UNDO IT COMPLETELY!) the nut at the top of the suspension ram which will need to be done later to remove the spring. i did this a different way which is explained later. im unsure if this can be done because the ram spins within the cylinder when you try to remove it without securing it first, IF ANYONE KNOWS LET ME KNOW AND ILL MAKE AMMENDS ACCORDINGLY.
***************
10. Now release the wheel nuts, jack up the car and removed the wheel.
11. Add axle stands to support but not on the lower suspension arms or gear box etc.
12. First things first is to unclip the brakelines from the back of the strut, try an get round with a torch an remember exactly how they unclip as its quite intricate how it does so.
13. Now you need to release the two big nuts at the bottom just behind the hub.
14. With them off, tap the bolts through the holes, possibly with the use of a bar to get them through the rest of the hole. DONT DAMAGE THE THREADS!!!. IF THE SUDDENLY GET TIGHT WHEN TAPPING THROUGH TRY LIFTING THE HUB AND SUSPENSION ARM TO RELEASE THE WEIGHT A BIT.
15. With those out you should now be able to push down on the hub and pull the strut down for the top of the turret and then pull it out of the wheel arch. IF YOUR DOING THIS ON THE PASSENGER SIDE ITS LIKELY THAT THE C.V. JOINT WILL POP OUT. JUST BE SURE YOU KNOW HOW TO GET IT BACK IN!!!
16. You should now have the complete strut in your hand!
---Fitting spring
17. First of all the spring needs closing up with the spring copressors to release the tension
18. Now the nut at the top of the ram has to be removed. (refere to note at step 9) i removed this by using a tool that belongs to the mate who helped me do this. it was a sort of clamp with cylindrical rubber faced grips to grab onto the ram of the strut (DONT ALLOW THE SHINEY SURFACE TO GET DAMAGED!!!) the clamp then sits in a vice and holds it tight so the nut can then be removed with the use of a socket and wrench.
19. Before completely unscrewing the nut study and make a note of what way round each bit is on the strut set-up as its got to go back in exactly the same way, ie which way round the top plate is and the way the end of the spring sits in the notch at the bottom. (i used a tip-ex pen to dot a mark on each bit along a straight line of the bits i then just lined the dots back up when rebuilding to get them all in the right place.)
20. Now remove the nut from the ram completely
21. Now remove the plate, rubber seat, bump stop and spring from the setup
22. Release the sping from the compressors and compress the new spring to be fitted
23. If fitting new shocks get them and make them ready in whatever way needs to be done, otherwise just get ya original shocks - its all the same for any from here
24. Place the new spring onto the shock, followed by the bumps stop, rubber seat and top plate. (make sure they are all the right way up)
25. Now put the top nut back on the ram and tighten it up. It doesnt matter about the plate lining up as the ram can be spun round to line it up later.
26. Check the spring is sat in the notch at the bottom of the strut and begin to release the compressors. Do it bit by bit (and get help ideally) and just make sure everything is going back together properly as the spring is opening up. (check the rubber is sat on the spring properly and its all the right way round)
27. As long as this all goes ok you should have a new shock and spring setup ready to go back on!
---Replacing strut
28. Push the top of the strut up into the suspension tower and manouver it round the hub/brakes etc.
29. If prefered lightly screw the strut top nuts back on to hold it up (but dont tighten!)
30. Now lift the hub and push it onto the bottom of the strut so it slots back it.
31. Push the two big bolts back it thorugh the holes and spin the nuts onto the threads
32. Ensure everything has gone into the right place and check if the C.V. joint is ok
33. If thats a yes then tighten the big nuts at the bottom
34. Now reassemble the brake lines onto the back of the strut.
35. Replace the wheel
36. Remove axle stands, drop down to floor, tighten wheel nuts etc.
37. Now tighten the three strut top nuts
38. That SHOULD be it
39. Now go back to step 8 and do the other side! Otherwise go to the nest step.
---Finishing off
40. Count number of lost knuckles and tally swear words!!!
41. With a bit of help manouver the metal section back into place and bolt it all down including the wiper motor if you undid it.
42. Now fit the plastic bit back on with the black screw clip things. They just sit in the hole and then you push the screw down into it to lock it. Well i think thats the idea! Theyll more than likely get knackered and squashed like mine did!
43. Fit the rubber bit back on the front of the plastics
44. Close the bonnet
45. Sit the wipers back on the splines (be careful of those spring loaded bits at the bottom theyve got a hell of a bite if they get ya! i know!)
46. If the wipers look good then bolt them down.
47. Test the wipers to be on the safe side
48. Now take it for a steady drive to make sure it doesnt collapse
49. Ideally get it tracked
50. If its all good SORTED!
Like i say any problems with this at all or any quereys then let me know.
Rob
Thanks
Matt
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This was done by a brillant guy called FredSmithers in the UK forum...
ALL credits go to him...
See it here....
http://www.aozh25.dsl.pipex.com/yaris/index.htm
Thanks
Matt
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The Differences
the main way to tell between a phase 1 and a phase 2 is the headlights, if the hearlights have a teardrop, then it is a phase 1, phase 1 have a SLIGHT one....
The interior in a phase 1 is greyer, and the buttons are rounder, and the dash board (Non TSPORT) has rounder symbols and gauges.
The phase 2 has square buttons and squarer gauges...also, the middle section of the dash goes right up to the odometer surround..... on a phase 1, this doesnt reach the odometer surround and is completly different
The phase 1 DOES NOT HAVE A BOOT LIGHT
Will add more if i can rememer...
Why you need to know
Well for a start, the bumpers are shaped differently, so some bodykits will only fit phase 1 as apposed to phase 2, this is entirely different for tsports as a body kit for a normal echo will definatly not fit a Tsport....
It will help you to know what phase your yaris is when it comes to adding headunits for example...
Hope this helps you all!
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Hi guys, forgive me if the echos are different from Yaris...
here goes....
The tutorials in the workshop only work on phase 1, but on the phase 2 the layout of the dash is very different, for example the top half of the dash is actually attached to the speedometer bay...
So what you need to do is firstly is pull off the Speedometer by gripping sides and pull, quite tricky, but dont worry it will come out eventually...
This is why its different in phase two, in phase one you can ignore the steps involving taking the speedomter out.
After doing this, again for phase 2 only, you have you unscrew the screw holding dash to the dash lol...as shown here by the arrow and circle :)
After this you need to take heater knobs off and unscrew the screws as shown in the pic. When you have done that, place your hands where the red lines are along dash (picture went a bit off, but you can figure it out), grab the edges and pull, and i mean really yank it! (dont be scared!)
You should end up in this situation
Try and put this put this out of the way without breaking the wiring, i just shoved it in speedo dash hole and it stuck it in there, its holds it pretty well ;)
Anyway, now you need to unscrew bottom half, you need to unscrew the screws shown by the arrows here....(Screws cannot been seen in pic, arrows show where it would be)
Now remove the ashtray (press down on metal tab and pull it out) then unscrew the screws there as shown here...
Now again grab the sides and pull, i found it easier to pull at the very bottom where dash board is and lever it out as far as possible. then i gripped the top and placed my thumbs on the sides of top bit, i levered with my thumb (pushed with my thumb) and it came out with a bit of a fight...but at least you dont hit yourself :D
Disconnect ALL the wiring that goes into the headunit and lighter. Congratulations you have a free unit...
To put new headunit in, you need to unscrew the cash tray and put your headunit in from BEHIND where cash tray was, screw the headunit on like the cash tray was held. hey presto, you got a heavier lower dash :D
Start putting the bottom bit in, but leave it reasting agaist gear shifter...This will allow you to wire it all, get your halfords adaptor and plug the old toyota connections into it, then connect the adaptor the the headunit wiring, and if need, plug the headunit wiring into the headunit :D
Like this
S - Standard plug/wiring
HA - Halfords adaptor
HC - Headunit Connection :D
After that, get it all put away screw it all in and this should be a finished project :D
Hope this helps you all!
Tips
Dont leave key in ignition this will blow your fuse :S (when disconnecting and connecting)
test the headunit works before putting everything back ;)
If you find the headunits memory resets itself, you need to look for a yellow wire and a red wire, there will be two halfs, you need to make sure the red wire is connected to the red wire and the yello wire is connected to the yellow wire.
Hope this helps
Cheers
Matt
)
Aus Sportivo
in Corolla Club
Posted
Mate that rolla looks sweet...
I like it :D
Hi btw