Naz
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Posts posted by Naz
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So a few weeks ago, a buddy of mine threw out a set of almost brand new tires from his car since he purchased a new set of rims that were a differnt size. So he let me have the tires so the set that i currently have on passed inspection but pass the quarter test JUST barely so i'll be in the market for a new set pretty soon at my current pace along with winter coming. So I was thinking maybe i'll just buy some decent alloys that fit the tires that my friend gave me.
My car right now has 14" stock steel wheels/hub caps, the tires my friend gave me are 17" tires. Now when I measure, the diameter of the entire wheel is very close about an half inch difference if that. The Width is also about a quarter inch wider then my stock tires.
So any advice as to what would need to be done to fit 17" wheels onto my car? I've seen people on cardomain with 19" on my gen camry that fit in the wheel well no problem, but I was wondering could 17" be too big for the front wheels to turn all the way without some sort of modification?
I could use some new shocks, i still have my stock ones after 162k and they do tend to make some noice when going over big bumps and in the winter their horrendously loud. Guess thats what philadephia pot poles can do to a car ;)
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Hi, last winter back in feb. i started noticing some power issues with my car. When it was very cold below 30 degree's i'd notice that at stoplights the interior instruments and headlights would slightly dim then when i rev'ed up or started acclerationg they would all be slightly brighter. So I assumed it was my alternator since the battery had been replaced only a few months prior. However now that its summer, I see no problems anymore whatsoever with my power system, no diming of the lights at idle or anything. Anyone else hav this situation? and if so when did your alternator die? right now i'm at 10 years/162k.
Also anyone know if alternators can be serviced? A buddy of mine once told me that you can get the brushes in an alternator cleaned/replaced and its realatively inexpensive compared to the price of a new alternator.
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well i can help you out to make the passenger be able to operate the nav system while your driving. If you access the service menu from the nav you can override it.
1)Go to the menu for the volume of the navigation
2)Touch the upper left corner of the screen
3)touch the bottom left corner of the screen
4)Touch the upper left corner again
5)touch the bottom left corner again
6)the service menu should come up
7)Find the button labeled "override" hold it until the car beeps
Enjoy being able to let the passenger find POI's while driving!
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yeah i would try another phone, i used my old motorola razr and paired with a new camry it worked like a charm
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If it really bothers you that much and you don't find the voice dial useful, override the system by accessing the service menu from the nav screen.
1)Menu
2)Volume
3)Touch the top left corner of the screen once
4)Touch the bottom left corner of the screen once
5)Touch the top left corner of the screen once
6)Touch the bottom left corner of the screen once
7)On the service menu screen that pops up find the button labeled "override" and push & Hold it until u hear a beep
8)enjoy driving with all the functionalities of your nav.
:) ah the perks of working at a lexus dealer
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Sounds like a great start. If you just have fine scratches, get a light rubbing compound and that will help you get them out. Deeper scratches may require buffing, wet sanding, or possibly even painting...(hopefully not).
There's two kinds of pinstripes: you can get ones that are just a really long sticker for probably $50-100; or you can have one handpainted for $100-200. The handpainted ones look nicer and are much more durable after the paint sets.
personally i'd go with the handpainted, I always like to think if i'm gonna do something to the car i should at least try and get/do the best i can without settling for something cheap/easy. The end result is always worth it :) However if you do get the long sticker type a good quality like the one from the factory should last a long time. The factory pinstripes on my car are still intact and have the original color but in 2 spots it seemed to of come off and just be missing but the spots r very minor and only a trained eye would pick up on it. Not bad for a car thats 10 years old w/161K and temperatures ranging from the teens in the winter to triple digits in the summer.
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yeah sorry for being MIA! work/school have been keeping me pretty busy
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nice! i'm thinking about putting a similar light set up with my camry
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yeah i once had a corolla loaner car when i put my camry in for service and it had JBL sound w/6 disc changer double DIN factory headunit. You should be able to just stick the JBL system into your double DIN slots and it should work like a charm. Although the JBL system is made for 8 speakers where as your car i believe would only have 4? Don't know exactly how that would work out though. because the way the base system is set up is that it has 4 speakers each speaker having a cone and a tweeter, However the JBL set up has 8 and uses a component set up where u have 2 Separate Tweeters and 2 Separate Cones and 4 normal cone/twetter combination speakers. 2+2+4=8. But i'm sure you can figure it out lol you could probably just ignore the 4 connections on the back for the 2tweeters and 2 cones and just use the 4 connections on the back for the normal cone/tweeter speakers.
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yeah that high idle sounds perfectly fine. in my case my camry does the same thing, on cold cold starts it'll idle at around 1700RPM then drop down to 750 after its warmed up. i wouldn't worry about it at all, it sounds perfectly normal. only thing you could do if you wanted, just use synthetic motor oil, i'v seen that the car warms up much quicker with synthetic motor oil, along with better fuel economy/performance/smoothness.
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Yes, but I think there's probably a lower number of whiplash victims now...more cell phone related crashes, less whiplash!
lol yeah deff
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Yup, removed it bent the side bars a littel so it leaned back at a reasonable angle the reinstalled them. As far as safety, when did head rests become standard? Been driving since 76 and I am pretture sure most cars back then didn't have them and people still drove...
really? you sure about that? I'v been in 1 rear end collision before and I guarantee that if i didn't have my head rest positioned correctly I could of easily gotten seriously injured.
"Since January 1, 1969, the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) under Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) No. 202 has mandated head restraints in the front outboard seats of all new passenger cars. On September 1, 1991, head restraint standards were extended to pickups, vans, and SUVs."
"In December 2004, NHTSA upgraded FMVSS 202 to require head restraints that are higher and closer to the back of people's head"
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Have a 2000 Solara 4 cyl with 70K miles. On just the coldest mornings (below 20F) the engine on first start begins to turn over and start and just as I release the starter the engine seems to "pop" slightly. Otherwise it runs beautifully, gets as good gas mileage as ever. Could the pop be from carbon buildup in the cylinders? Is the "pop" a problem or should I just ignore it? It only happens on cold starts in the coldest weather.
I have a "98 4 cylinder camry and I experienced the same exact problem. The car would only make the pop noise when it was very cold outside but besides that it would be fine and turn on normally throughout the rest of the day. I didn't think much of it and by the time i decided to get it looked it, it was warm again and the problem went away completely. I'm not sure at all what it could be, my car right now has 160K on it so since you only have 70K I wouldn't worry about it too much.
We'll see when winter comes around again if I have the same problem i'll get it looked at. To say the truth my car has a habit of fixing itself lol. Alignment was out..then all of a sudden it was fine again, that popping noise then when it got slightly warm and it completely went away. My camry has been a angel to me in the department of reliabililty and i'm sure if you treat yours well it'll reliable as the sun as well. In the past 10 years of ownership and 160K miles later my car has NEVER broken down or not turned on due to mechanical failure of any kind. (knock on wood) And I do put the car through its paces, weather changes in my area throughout a year easily go from the negative temperatures to 100+ and my car is used as a everyday work car so it is almost ran every single day in the worst of weather and driving conditions. Quite literally the car has only ever not turned on twice in the past 10 years, once 5 years after ownership when the battery died, and again very recently 10 years after ownership when the the second battery died.
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Vehicle in question is an 08 Camry SE with 2.4L & spd auto and 3.2 K miles
The following is a list of items that in my opinion are both good and bad about this vehicle. None of these would prevent me form buying another Camry.
NOTE: Opinions are like ass holes... everyone has one and they quite frequently discharge the same substance.
Safety Concerns:
1) Excessive large blind spots caused by large windshield and central doorposts. I suspect some of this is due to the side air bags. Rear view mirror also creates a large blind spot for me. NOTE: Almost all new cars have this problem.
2) Brake pedal and accelerator are to close together for size 15 boots. Real easy to apply the brake when going for the accelerator or a worse condition is, getting the side of your boot caught under the brake pedal when going from driving to braking condition.
Safety & or Inconveniences:
3) No Key lock in passenger door. This is really bad since I will not carry the “Loaded” (push-button remote) key in my pocket. Almost every time I try it sets off the alarm or locks – unlocks the door or trunk etc. Trying to let wife in first is impossible and if parallel parked you now must stand in the street to unlock the vehicle.
4) Vehicle is very susceptible to being blown around by side winds. This may be a combination of the SE suspension and steering as well as the vehicle height. Don’t recall the Caravan being this bad though…. But it has been a few years since we sold the van.
Likes:
1) Transmission shifts are very smooth.
2) Seats are reasonably comfortable and seat height is better than most. Note: This contributes to Item 3 below.
3) Body panel fit and finish appears to be better than previously owned vehicles.
4) Hood has self-supporting hinges or struts. I never have liked the support rods since they are always in the way.
Dislikes:
1) This is the worst starting Fuel Injected vehicle I have ever owned. It cranks for 7 – 12 seconds minimum before it will start. Once started it runs flawlessly. I have tried turning the key to the on position in hopes this would allow fuel pump to pressurize the injector rails. No change. Does the fuel pump run with key in the on position? Or only after the starter is engaged? I can’t hear the pump run so am unable to tell.
2) Headrests are slanted to far forward and very uncomfortable for both my wife and I. We cannot get them adjusted to comfortable position. Only way is to lean the seat back like we are driving in the “Hood”. I removed the drivers head rest.
3) Extremely noisy in the cab. Note: This is really loud anoying. Only a slight cross wind and this vehicle howls like a banshee. I have checked window and door seals for fit and installation. Tried cracking windows open etc. Can’t seem to find a single source of this problem. Also transmits what seems like a lot of road noise into the cab. This may be in part due to the SE suspension.
did you seriously remove the headrests? Not to act like a parent or anything but without the headrest that car is basically a death trap lol
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If I understand your scenario, it sounds like you are noticing a normal variation in the operation of voltage dependent accessories. If you look closely (darker neighborhood street vs a well lit boulevard) you should see a slight change in the brightness of your headlights that is engine rev dependent as well. (low idle...dimmer lights...higher revs...brighter lights)
I think what you are seeing is the normal fluctuation of these items. As the engine revs increase, the amount of voltage created by the electronic support equipment (alternator etc) is increased proportionately and more volts and current pass through the circuits of the appliance (blower motor, headlights etc) and the faster/brighter they run. To this end, it would appear that your mechanic isn't pulling your leg and is correct.
That said, however, if it's a major dim of lights at night on idle at a stop light or a major drop in blower fan speed, there may be cause for concern. Someone help me here, but it seems (in my experiences over several hundred thousand miles) that if an alternator, regulator, or other part of the "charging circuit" is going bad (battery), this fluctuation is more pronounced when the appliances are, in effect, running entirely off the alternator etc. On the light side, there may be a belt that just needs tension increased a twitch.
My personal (albeit brief) experience with remote starters (especially when done by the individual vs a "shop") are that they're often a source of problems. The ONE I had, I had removed after it killed the engine while driving several times (previous owners kids installed it)!
May be a bare wire causing a ground situation that may be slowly trickling your batter down. Just throwin stuff out there....30/30 guaranteed accurate ... 30 feet or 30 seconds whichever comes first ;)
TL
Sounds pretty accurate, my guess would be that it most likely is the remote starter and not anything else related to the power system since your car is so new.
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As far as i'v seen the system is set up to automatically turn off the recirculate whenever it thinks theres too much moisture in the air so that you don't end up fogging up your windows or causing mold to form in the HVAC system. I personally have a 98 camry which doesnt hav it but my dad's 2001 Lexus does. Its actually quite helpful, i'v seen lots of people complaining about my gen camry's where the HVAC smells terrible and its always been because those people left their cars on recirculate all the time, causing mold to build up in the HVAC from all the excess moisture making the terrible smell.
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We lost the lights in our trunk lid (parking and reverse too). Though the lights in the trunk lid weren't lit, we first noticed that the check engine light was on. That code said that the parking/neutral/reverse shift indicator switch was bad. In addition, the reverse gear indicator light in the dash came on each time the parking lights were turned on but was not on when the car was just turned on/no lishts lit. The R light in the dash stayed on no matter what gear selection you chose whe the lights were turned on. I tried fooling with the shift indicator on the tranny but couldn't get the wiring harness loose so I put it back. Thinking that this problem might be simpler than that (which the check engine code read), I checked the wiring harness to the trunk lid and found a broken wire. It must have broken as a result of the flexing of the trunk lid each time it's raised and lowered. Reconnecting the wire was the solution to both the check engine light and the crazy R dash light coming on when the car parking lights were turned on but the car in was in any other gear but R.
As always, check the simplest thing first.......the guy at autozone told me when he read he code "It says that shift indicator is bad but I've never seen anyone who has had to replace that. You may start by checking all the bulbs, fuses, etc. first".
I Ran into the same exact thing! and I had the same solution. All i did was wrap the cable running to the trunk lid with more electrical tape and it fixed it easily. Looks to be a pretty common problem.
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Actually I fixed the problem. Seemed like some of the wiring going to the rear tailights/reverse lights/license plate lights was a little damaged in one spot, so i used some electrical tape and the all the problems went away completely
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My 98 I4 camry has about 156K on it and I just expirenced a very weird issue. When i turned it on today the P and R on the gear selector on the dashboard were both lit up even though it was completly in park. Then when i put my foot on the brake the check engine light and the fused tailight indicator came on. So i put it in neutral and turned the car off and turned it on again. When i did the car sounded funny when it turned on, not like it does normally and the symtom's happened again. Then i let it warm up, it was about 27 degrees outside. Then after warming up i did the same thing and the P and R problem went away and so did the weird start when i turned it on and so did the fused tailight indicator but the check engine light remained. Then after a short drive when i turned the car on again it went away and is still running and driving normally so i really don't know what to make of it. Anyone else out there expirienced something similar? I'll be taking in to the mechanic shorty to see if theirs anything i should worry about.
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Sounds to me like your alternator is on the way out...unfortunately...
That costs around 500+ I assume right? with price of the new alternator and labor? jeees if my alternator goes idk whats going to happen. right now i'm in school so its going to be a struggle to afford to fix the problem and i dont use the car much anymore except weekends. anything i can do to prevent it going soon?
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My 98 I4 camry has about 156K on it and its running into some minor cosmetic issues I've never encountered before. When stopped at red lights i notice that my interior lights are slightly dim as if there not getting enough power. So I put the car in neutral and rev up to maybe 1500RPM and the interior lights/headlights get slightly brighter. Is this just a sign of my electrical system/alternator wearing out? I just replaced the battery 3 months ago. I found this DIY page for something called "The Big 3" where it changes the cables running from the battery-alternator-ground/chassis. Think its worth the investment?, note: this problem just started occurring after the temperature dropped below 40-30 degrees, in the heat its fine but in cold seems to make this cosmetic problem occur, and I do one day hope to install a more powerful sound system and I'd assume fixing my electrical system would be the first step.
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I had a similar problem with my dads car. he has a 2001 lexus RX300. once in a while the check engine and VSC and traction control light would come on and stay on for maybe a week? then it would just go away. It was very odd my dad never paid mind to it because he just says it goes away after a while, so if the cars driving dynamics aren't changed then its prolly not a big deal, but i would recommend taking it in to the dealer to see what they say. The check engine used to happen to my dads RX because whenever he went for a oil change, the placement of the oil filter on the 3.0L V6 is in a hard to reach area and its very very easy to brush up against the oxygen sensor causing the check engine light to come on.
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yeah deff. from all gen4 camrys have either the 2.2L I4 or 3.0 V6
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Thank you for helping. My Camry has 4 cylinders. I believe it is a 4.0 engine. I will have my mechanic check it periodically.
4.0?
Alternator going bad?
in Camry Club
Posted
hmm depends how long, the max downtime I could survive with would be 2 days on a weekend, since I need the car to go to work M-F. Do you think its worth it for me to get the alternator repaired/rested now? or wait till the condition shows again in the winter?