marc780

Yikes! Stiff steering :o Id check the hoses for a leak, especially at the fittings. Maybe one is just loose. If thats not where the leak is clean the engine well and trace the leak down. Theres not a whole lotta places it can be leaking from as the hose run is relatively short, but check the pump itself (front where the pulley is) and the steering rack. I'd rent a car while this one was fixed...

I go along with the people that say change it. Its a lot of trouble to rip it apart again and most water pumps do not last anywhere near 90 k you have on your engine. So i'd change the water pump too. If you use an OEM toyota pump it might last another 90 000 long, enough to get you to the next timing belt change.

I work in a fleet that has Toyota camry. Today we fixed a stalling problem and the way we fixed it might be worth a try for you. He took the throttle body off the plenum chamber/intake manifold (big french bread shaped, aluminum casting the throttle body attaches to) to clean it. I think you could do an acceptable job with out removing it though. The mechanic showed me a part of the throttle body that regulates air, its the idle air control valve. There is a small valve on this part and it was dirty. After a while it gets clogged by carbon etc. from the PCV blowby and doesnt let enough air pass at idle. So you have to clean it off once in a while. The mechanic used spray can carb cleaner to clean the throttle body. To find the throttle body trace the big plastic tube from the air filter and it is the first metal part it clamps to. Its the part with the throttle linkage in it. Remove the big plastic tube from the air filter. (You should be able to see the butterfly valve) and use a whole can of spray cleaner in there. Clean the throttle butterfly, and remove all the fuel and vauum hoses on it and spray in there too. Use a rag to clean it as much as you can in there. Compressed air is good if you have it, it will save a lot of work. Just soak everything you can get to on the throttle body to clean it. And prop the butterfly open to let the solvent evaporate. Then put everything back together. It might run rough for a minute as the spray cleaner gets burned off but after that it should idle smoothly (if the dirty IAC valve wass indeed the problem and not something else)

Only 55 k miles? I wouldnt flush. Id actually assume the previous lease owner never opened the hood, what would he care. I did my 02 V6 and all i did was just drain the fluid. The trans has a strainer and not a gauze filter. I didnt bother pulling the pan, i just changed the fluid. Takes about 3 or 4 quts cant remember exactly. And check your owners manual, mine says you MUST USe Toyota T IV fluid, ONLY. Only place to get it is at Toyota dealer and it is like 4 or 5 $ qt. (Another reason not to have it flushed, BECAUSE what is more likely: 1. the dealer is going to refill his flushing machine with T IV because toyota says thats what used in your car , or 2. he will just use whatever fluid is already in it?)

1. Try shampooing it with a real shampooer machine not rattle can. If its too far gone, consider replaceing carpet. 2. Soak them hinges with engine oil from an oil can, or tri flo. Work the doors as you spray it on. Wipe off excess. 3. Use a heat gun and brand new single edge razor, the quickest and cleanest way. I do it at work all the time. (Hair dryer not hot enough - HEAT GUN). Keep the heat moving and you wont damage the paint. Do one sticker at a time, keep the gun moving over the sticker for about 30 seconds to a minute, until edges start to peel (carefully use the razor and you wont scratch the paint). Then it will peel off. It would take about 5 minutes per sticker if that. 4. Take apart seat belt. Theyre not complicated. Remove the plastic cover, untagle the belt if need be. Clean the winding mechanism and lube it with a little oil or grease (not on the belt). The springs seldom break or wear out so maybe its just stuck. 5. Antenna?! Dont know. Most unscrew at the base.

Hmm, wonder if you really needed that ps pump. Sounds like just a belt problem - its either loose, worn out, or both. It wouldnt surprise me if they changed the pump but not the belt, alotta shops do things that way anymore. The PS belt is towards the bottom i think, so youd just wanna jack up the left side of car, remove the wheel and remove that inner plastic fender cover to give you access. If the belt looks new (the white manufacturers letters might still be visible on the outside), then just tighten it. To do that you find the pivot bolt and the clamp bolt and loosen those and tighten it or change it. There might be other belts in the way and you will have to do the same to these accesories too, and might as well change them too if they are in the same shape as the Ps belt. Or another possibility, maybe the p.s. fluid is dirty or has some moisture in it. Suck out the fluid from the res and replace it. Then run the engine a minute, do it again, and once more. The pressure relief valve could be sticking and maybe the cold weather aggravates it.

2002 V6. I do mine every 2 or 3000 miles. Makes me feel better.

Sounds like the dealer used a semi metallic with a hard compound. Or maybe left shims off. And yes, i always ALWAYS use the blue goo, it only took one episode of squealing brakes to make me a believer. Id have them change the pads to something closer to OEM pads, dont really need metallics unless you drive hills alot or just drive really hard. Heres what i think the thunking sound may be, maybe the wheel cylinder on that wheel is sticky. Or maybe even worse, missing parts or sticky self adjustors that didnt get cleaned and greased properly. Did you have the drums turned or replaced? If not, maybe you need a new drum (theyre not too expensive).