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Now, I know what you're thinking...bad downstream O2 sensor. We went through this last year with this car. Failed readiness for emissions. Exact same situation. I put in a new battery last year, reset and still the same after lots of driving. I had a local garage put on a new Denso O2 sensor that I found (it was the last one in our very large city at all of the auto parts store locations). Still the same thing after reset and a lot of driving. I looked up virtually every kind of drive cycle I could find, we drove it 600-700 miles on the highway and in the city during this fiasco, stop and go, warmed it up for minutes in the morning, turned on various things in the car while warming it up, let it run for a few minutes after driving. Everything. Went to 2 Toyota dealerships. The first one wanted to change out the new downstream O2 sensor again. They finally did and it still kept doing it. Nobody knew why. They ended up eating the labor and part charge for changing the downstream O2 sensor because that wasn't it and they kept pushing to try it even though a new one had just been put on and 1/4th of the downstream O2 sensor tests had tested each time even after the second one was put on. They kept wanting to reset it and saying to drive it and it seemed like the "drive it" was their excuse every time at both dealerships. Second Toyota dealership, same thing. Reset, drive it. Having seen how fast it tests, it is within 20-50 miles of driving after a battery reset and everything tests when it is working properly. At the second dealership, a Senior Tech looked more deeply at it. Last year, they said he traced the wiring somehow for the OBD2 from end to end. He told the service clerk to tell us that there were "a couple of broken pins" that he replaced and it passed emissions right there. However, this year as we're having the same issue, that Senior Tech has since had a baby and he has apparently retired. So the service rep pulled the paperwork from last year and comments from that Senior Tech last year just say, "Test drive vehicle using drive pattern conformation above 45mph inc 2 30 second stops. Check monitors. Repeat drive cycle, all monitors complete and ready for emissions testing." However, it did not mention the two pins that were said to be broken last year, for some very odd reason. How can I trace the OBD2 wiring to see if there's a short or something loose? The battery is the same as the one newly put in last year before it tested fine with the Tech, so it is likely still good after just one year. It has had a new downstream Denso O2 sensor put on twice in the past year. It's safe to safe that's good. I have a bluetooth device called BlueDriver that you plug into the OBD2 and use an app on the phone to link to it, do real-time Mode 6 readings and such. I can literally see when each thing tests, voltage/temp it is running at, etc. It also lets me grab full diagnostics as seen below. When I reset it by taking the entire battery loose for 10-15 minutes, half of the readiness tests complete within 30 minutes or less of driving. Everything tests within the day except for: Only 1 or 2 of the 4 total Bank 1 Sensor 2 (downstream O2 sensor) tests test. This causes the catalyst to also not test because it apparently kicks in after the O2 sensor tests. It seems to vary between 1 test completed and 2 tests completed, then all 4 may go back to untested status or it may go back down from 2 of 4 tested to 1 of 4 tested. What other things can I check? Where can I find a real wiring diagram that I can understand? Honestly, it seems like the Techs see so many variations of vehicles (even if made by 'their' company) that it's like they don't know what they're talking about. I'm tired of people saying "just drive it!" because that's obviously not the problem. It's a 4-pin square plug going to the oxygen sensor. I unplugged that, checked the pins on it, looked at the pins on the female part of the plug and checked the female pins with the multimeter. A couple of those pins are pushing like 29.5 volts and one registered up into the mid-30's in volts. I saw nothing off about it. I also took off both of the OBD2 plugs into the ECM/ECU under the hood and checked them all and I see no broken pins there, either. Last year when this same issue happened, I got under the driver's side dash and meticulously checked every fuse one by one and nothing was wrong. I checked all of the fuses in the box under the hood, as well. They were all fine. I'm puzzled. Air filter and new iridium plugs (I gapped them and installed them myself) were put in around October 2021. There are no codes in the system. Anyone have any other ideas? Tomorrow I'm going to try to trace each OBD2 connector from the ECU all the way back to the downstream O2 sensor and see if there are any connection issues. Though it seems to be getting a decent amount of power. I don't think the catalytic converter is bad. It was well-maintained meticulously with oil changes and all sorts of stuff before we bought it. I had already pulled the CarFax report and oddly enough, though we bought it about 40 miles away, they were getting it serviced at a garage about 2 miles from our house for all of those years.

Just an FYI... My friend just updated the wheels on his mini cooper and gave me his old rims. It just so happens that those same wheels fit my 2009 Yaris. I've been driving with those Mini Cooper wheels for over 5 years. I never need to purchase Hubcaps again. Plus, the wheels look cool.

T_R_D. not 3rd

New here. Oregon coast. 2019 tacoma 4door 4x4 3rd. 32k miles. boring white. Moving to Tucson this winter. Hope to explore desert in 'taco-19'