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marshmellowman88

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Posts posted by marshmellowman88

  1. Hi to all you Gurus.

    I'm new to the board. It's overwhelming. You guys rock! Its a very useful board and I've already hacked at my Corolla with some of the suggestions found here.

    I looked all over for something on this, and found the parts listing but not what I need to know.

    http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?cont...a_early_abs_ecu

    The Beast: 1992 Corolla Wagon. Automatic, mileage: 275,000.

    The ABS light stays on. Toyota told me it would cost about $1800 to repair. Since the car is driven only by me - and not used a lot, I would like to skip the repair or do it myself if I can find the right part. The car runs beautifully and the brakes work fine without the ABS. However, I can't pass inspection with the ABS light on.

    I took the car to a local garage for a second opinion. All the wheel sensors are fine, they also determined its the ABS ECU. They could not test this however without a known good ABS ECU.

    My question: Where is the ABS ECU (I think I might know where it is) and how do I go about removing and replacing it?

    I don't know about a 92 corolla but on most cars its on the HCU (Hydraulic Control Unit). the thing with lines coming from the master cylinder.

  2. No need to resurface unless your brake pedal is vibrating when you are decelerating your Corolla.

    Some would say just buy new brake rotors as they are cheap.

    Others would say go and resurface.

    Unless there is that vibrating or pulsating when you press the brakes, then don't worry about the rotors.

    what about when your steering wheel shakes when braking from 45 or more?

  3. Dislikes:

    1) This is the worst starting Fuel Injected vehicle I have ever owned. It cranks for 7 – 12 seconds minimum before it will start. Once started it runs flawlessly. I have tried turning the key to the on position in hopes this would allow fuel pump to pressurize the injector rails. No change. Does the fuel pump run with key in the on position? Or only after the starter is engaged? I can’t hear the pump run so am unable to tell.

    now i dont know much about the camry but if the fuel pressure regulator is vacuum operated which it probably is than you might have a vacuum leak which would make all the fuel go all the way back to the tank which would make the pump have to pump the gas all the way to the injectors just to start the engine which would cause that extremely long cranking time.

  4. Dislikes:

    1) This is the worst starting Fuel Injected vehicle I have ever owned. It cranks for 7 – 12 seconds minimum before it will start. Once started it runs flawlessly. I have tried turning the key to the on position in hopes this would allow fuel pump to pressurize the injector rails. No change. Does the fuel pump run with key in the on position? Or only after the starter is engaged? I can’t hear the pump run so am unable to tell.

    now i dont know much about the camry but if the fuel pressure regulator is vacuum operated which it probably is than you might have a vacuum leak which would make all the fuel go all the way back to the tank which would make the pump have to pump the gas all the way to the injectors just to start the engine which would cause that extremely long cranking time.

  5. i hear that living in AZ during the summer its a good idea to have a transmission cooler separate from the radiator but i don't know if thats just on trucks or anything that hauls stuff or if i should maybe look in to getting one for my tiny little 08 corolla considering i drive at least 70 miles a day. anybody living in a toasty climate that can maybe help me with this question?

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