RidgeRunner41

I have not bought an engine for my toyota avalon but a good friend at work did for his wife's '98 avalon. He got it from California and had it shipped to him here in TN some 4-5 years ago. About $1000 then for the new engine w/ 6 month warranty. It worked out just fine. One place that I would recommend from my internet searching is Rising Sun Engines, Inc. in CA. They do a dyno test that most others don't do. This test is the next best thing to you being there to hear the engine run. Hope this might help.

I too have had the similar noise. It is a relay located under the glove box, passenger side floor board. Take off the side panel, interior trim that covers the relays that are found close to being just under the glove box. You can then turn on the key and zero in on the faulty relay. Replace it and you should be good as new. AutoZone or any other parts store has them.

Own 1998 since new. It now has 228,766 miles and going strong. :P

Just thought to share a fix on strut replacement. Had a rattle type noise on the front right wheel, especially when traveling over a bumpy road or asphalt patch area. Changed out both front struts today to try and correct the problem. During the replacement, found the right strut bearing was defective. My favorite parts store, AutoZone doesn't stock this bearing so went over to Advanced Auto. They have it but in a kit with the upper suspension support for a mere $ 74. The new strut was only $ 84 at the Zone. Anyway, going to check with the dealer on trying to get just the bearing. Would appreciate it anyone knows if you can get just the bearing from a Parts store as opposed to the dealer parts dept.

Hello and welcome. Looks like you are new 06 Avalon owner. How is the ride in this year's model?

I don't log in frequently so this is probably too old for richardg2 benefit. I too have a '98 Avalon and thought it was a starter solenoid problem since my wife said the same "clicking" noise was occurring when starting vehicle. Solenoid removal is a cake walk, no trouble at all to remove. Once removed I took it to my local AutoZone store (love the ZONE). They tested it and it checked good. However, counter person recommened that I go ahead and get a new one as sometimes it has just a bad spot and will not start then. However, for $ 145 I wasn't willing to guess on that so took starter back home and re-installed. The key here was doing a good cleanup on the post terminal and cable leads during hook up. Put a little electrical grease on terminal after hookup and have had NO problems since. "Even a blind pig finds an acorn now and then" My suggestion to any future readers on this one---check and clean cable connection on starter without removing entire unit. Mine didn't appear to be that bad but logic tells me differently now.

For anyone who might find this helpful. This was my experience on the fix (Updated) I have a '98 Avalon and got the same P0135 code when checked at Advance Auto Parts yesterday. I purchased the Bosch "universal" O2 Sensor for $ 64 as opposed to the $147 "wired to OEM" special. I agree with Mike that the wiring connection isn't too tough so save some $ and buy the universal unit. However, the rub I had was knowing which sensor is Bank 1, Sensor 1. Going to my Haynes book shows O2 Sensor with Bank 1, Sensor 1 being the front sensor easily seen when you open the hood and look down on the exhaust manifold. But here is the kicker, the Avalon has two sensors, Bank 2 sensor 1 is the other with the heater circuit jumper together. Bank 2 sensor 1 is between the engine and firewall, you can see better on driver's side when looking for it. Going to the electrical wiring diagrams in the back of Haynes shows that if either sensor heater circuit faults I believe you will get the infamous P0135 code "Bank 1 Sensor 1 heater circuit". Love those electrical diagrams. So disconnect the sensors at the connector and pull out your volt meter. Check the heater circuit on each sensor before you replace the wrong one. Check the terminals where the 2 black wires connect, no polarity on the heater circuit, for resistance (ohms) should be 11 to 16 ohms when engine is cold. For instance, I got 13.2 on the front one and the back showed OPEN. Replaced the back one and then went back to Advance for a PCM reset to clear the "Check Engine" light.