[96 4cyl stalling]

96 4cyl Camry w/81k stalling at red lights and when at idle speed thru intersections.  Had this problem about 2yrs ago and the dealer replaced the EGR valve, very expensive with labor and diagnostics etc.....  Same symptoms now, the cars just stalls when stopped or coasting around intersections and so forth.  I just replaced the EGR valve myself thinking it must be gone again, but the problem is still there.  I plan to clean the throttle body plate as it looks pretty varnished up and also the IAC valve. 

Someone else mentioned their air filter looked pretty clean after 4 months.  I replaced mine about a year ago (at least) and it looks pretty clean.  This made me think that not much air is entering, though I can't say for sure. 

The car seems fine initially and tends to stall after its been running for a few minutes.  I also heard a loud pop a few weeks ago, could have been a backfire, but I'm not sure.  Funny thing is my friend was getting into my car with 2 balloons and we thought one had popped but that wasn't the case.  What could cause a backfire?

I don't mind bringing the car to the dealer, just don't want them throwing parts at it and eating up my time and money.

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See posts on CAMRY Hestitates.

My problem was a bad ignition coil that was arcing- similar symptoms as yours. But that loud 'pop' could have been a backfire/misfire - another clue that the ignition is fouling up.

[91 Camry idles rough when in gear - may stall]

My 91 Camry DX automatic (which I just bought used) runs a bit rough when I am waiting at a light or stop sign.  Sometimes it will stall when I step on the gas.  It runs smooth in park.  I know the transmission was replaced at one time (30K ago?).  Is there a relatively easy way to adjust at what point the tranny engages more forcefully?  I thought if I could raise that point a little, it may solve the problem.  Or, how do you increase the engine idle?  I have not worked much on a fuel injected engine.

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See also posts on CAMRY Hesitates - check your ignition coil - it may be going bad - arcing. Look for traces of black carbon from metal contact to surrounding areas. Coil is under the plastic cover below the rotor.

b-t-w, the idle is controlled by a small screw locked by a small nut under the throttle wheel, next to throttle body. Uses a small hex wrench at lower end to adjust in/out after loosening the lock screw. Adjust while engine is off in order to rotate the throttle wheel out of the way to adjust the screw.

[Camry Hesitates...]

My 92 LE (156K miles) started to hesitate, then stall after right after gassing up at a name brand gas station. Car ran great up to then. Thought I had gotten some bad gasoline. Replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor - better but still hestitated and often stalled at idle. Was able to re-start most of the time. Car ran fine at hwy speeds, so it seemed that the fuel pump was okay.

Took it to my regular mechanic (ex-BMW) who could not find anything wrong - no codes, etc. He cleaned out the throttle body, added gas treatment & agreed that gas may have been bad. But car still hesitated and stalls. A day later, it stalled on highway - BAD!. Couldn't restart it.

After towing it home, I did some web searches on Camry stalling. Found that some changed EGR valve, IAC, etc.

One car review site indicated that a known weaknesses in Camry's was the ignition coil, and also mention in the toyotaowners UK site.

I checked my ignition coil and found presence of carbon tracks - a definite indication of hi-voltage arcing.

Bought a replacement coil for about $72, pulled the distributor & replaced the ignition coil. Car started right up, purrs at idle, and runs like new!

Theoretically, the coil could be replaced w/o pulling the distributor since it is mounted outside of the distributor body by 4 small Phillips screws, but its awkward. Just mark lines on the engine block next to distributor flange for re-alignment, and remember the direction of rotor/shaft, It can only be replaced in 1 of 2 ways due to the 'paddle' on the end of shaft (as opposed to a gear). There are two 12mm bolts, at 10 o'clock and 6 o'clock, holding the distributor to the block.

Remove the distributor by small twists side-side while pulling out slowly - the straighter you pull the better else it will get cocked in the block. Clearance is tight. While you have the distr. body out, replace the oil seal on the shaft and if needed, the distributor cap seal. Using clean rag, clean out the all mating surfaces and hole in the block before re-installing.

Thanks to all who have shared info on Camry Stalls.