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2003 camry starting problems


shinboy

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I have a 2003 camry with 40k miles on it. I drive it pretty often, at least once or twice a day. After just using it previously that day, when I tried to take it for a drive, the battery was completely dead (maybe a flicker here and of power). I thought, okay, maybe it is just the battery dying. I tried jump start the car and the car had power (i think because it was using the battery power from the other car. When I tried starting the car again (still hooked up to the other car) I heard a constant clicking noise. The car did not turn on at all and I kept on hearing the repetitive clicking sound. After remove the jumper cables, the car still has no power. I am not too knowledgeable about cars and I get mixed opinions from people telling me that it could be the battery, starter, or alternator, or a mixture of both. Can someone give me advice on my problem. Thanks.

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I have the same problem right now with my 2003 camery.  I jumped it twice to get it running, but it will not restart.  I am not sure what the problem is either.

I took my camry in to get that check it turns out to be the battery. All they did was replace the battery and they charged 45 for labor, whoosh. On the receipt it says that the battery and charging unit was bad so maybe it was that also, but that doesn't explain why when I jumped started it it didn't work. Maybe toyota is just full of it and in it for the money no matter how petty ^_^.

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  • 5 weeks later...

I just had to replace the battery on my '02 Camry. I called FOUR different service departments in Atlanta to see what each mechanic's opinion woulkd be as to whether it was a shot battery or the alternator. ALL FOUR said that the Nippondenso (Denso) alternators in the 2002-2004 model years were tough as nails and they did not replace them frequently and that it was a bad battery. So I threw a battery in it on Wednesday and it has been running just fine for 8 days now---so it could not have been the alternator.

$65.00 at Advance Auto Parts for a 37 month no questions asked battery with 580 CCAs. Worth my 10 minutes to put it in!

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  • 1 year later...

Every time you jump start your battery, you run the risk of shorting it out or damaging the plates inside the battery. Our vehicle batteries (standard lead-acid SLI - starting, lights and ignition) were designed to give your car that initial jolt of power to start then maintains that 12-volt integrity after the engine is started. When a battery's state of discharge falls below 75%-80% you won't even get an itty bitty LED light to work. At this point a boost is needed because the discharged battery can't even maintain 12 volts much less provide the cranking power necessary to start your engine.

Boosting - Keep in mind, everytime you need a boost/jump off of someone elses battery or you use your battery to jumpstart someone else's you risk damaging either batteries in the process, one way to damage the battery is by leaving the booster cables connected longer than necessary after the disabled vehicle has started. Once you've brought the battery back to life - state of discharge above that 80%, normally after a few minutes the battery would have been able to restart the car without any help from booster (as long as there are no other unnecessary drains on the battery in this weakened state) unless you had a faulty or shorted cell in which case your battery wasn't even at 12-volts. Internal Resistance is another factor in a battery's short comings after being discharged - there is built up resistance in a discharged battery freshly boosted relative to its state of discharge and affects the battery's ability to accept a charge. It may take a battery one-half hour before it begins to even re-charge, or your battery was so old it won't conduct the necessary power needed for cranking ignition/starter - i.e. , a battery loses its "conductivity" like velcro loses its "sticking" strength when it reaches its service life (about 3 years - 6 if your lucky). Maybe you noticed the battery had begun shedding its conductive material off the lead plates which began separating your clamps from their posts eating away at the clamps (a blue-ish powdery sulfuric material). All are indicators you should be looking into a new battery.

IMHO-sounds to me like a cell was shorted/faulty AND your battery reached its service life. If it was your alternator you would have paid more and the dealer would have told you not to mention the car would've died in a couple of days later.

I know this is an old post but, I felt that this info is useful and valuable to any car owner

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