paulmars

Noise stopped. Much wtr direct from hose (not spray bottle) on different pulley and noise stopped. After 30-60 sec noise returned. Repeated this 6 times. The last two listened to returned noise for over 10min and it never stopped or changed...until more wtr. Unplug alt or turn on AC also stops noise. Screwdrver to ear cant find source. Free spinning pulleys fell smooth and silent. Although most have some play. Took car for 1st street drive since noise 1st manifested months ago. Drove for 20 min. Then noise was gone. Only time ever no noise except for 2nd time w\wtr on belt and alt\AC mentioned above. After street drive let idle for 10 min and no noise. A few days later another 10 min idle no noise. A few weeks later noise present and louder (i have recording). After about 10 min noise volume reduced and was like all previous times. Then after 5 min it went away. Then it returned for few seconds and went away for 10-30 sec or even a minute or few minutes then returned for few seconds. Over and over. Few week later start no noise, drv for 20 minutes and no noise again For months every time I ran engine it made this noise, now actually drving car seems to stop it. 150k miles. Belt chnged w\oem about 6 months before. Thoughts?

Placing the end of a screwdriver against the center bolt with engine running I can feel it moving. Best way to describe it is like a chatter or strong vibration. It feels like that, but no noise. I think this is normal, but I dont know. Im going to replace an idler pulley or bearing, because it makes a noise. While Im there I should replace the other idler/bearing and the tensioner bearing. Unless the tension itself is not good. I cant get a torque wrench on it, but using a wrench and my hand its difficult to move and feels the same for the entire travel with belt off. Here is imprint of wrench after pushing and releasing it two times. https://imgur.com/a/NwCwhvd here it is 5 minutes later https://imgur.com/a/CqYtFdh It feels tight to me, but is it normal to vibrate much? Here it is spinning and you cant really see the vibration. Cant hear it either, but touch that center bolt head and you feel it strong. The two idler pulley bolt heads dont vibrate like this. https://imgur.com/a/jq9yqZE

This guy here uses this pulley for the tensioner. that would be much easier then replacing entire tensioner. gates wont confirm or deny that this 36174 will do the job. they do say that the 36173 is for the two idler pulleys. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YZ8E0wtxp4

wtr didnt effect noise. neither did pressing on belt and pulleys while engine was running.

Noise here: https://imgur.com/a/TE4NRZE This site always sets speaker to off, so you need to click it on. When I unplug the 3 wire alternator plug the noise stops. When i plug it back in, the noise starts immediately for 1/2 a second, then stops for 3 to 5 seconds before starting again. once noise starts it does not stop. The alternator usually starts making this noise after engine warms up for 10 to 15 minutes. Once in a while the noise starts 2 minutes after engine dead cold start. Last time I started it, it ran for 37 minutes with NO noise, then i shut her down for 2 minutes and restarted the engine, then after 45 seconds the noise started. 2 different screwdrivers touching front, mid section and rear of the alternator, with other end in my ear and I hear nothing. Same with short hose touching or just very near alt. I cant reverse spin the Alt coupler pulley clutch\decoupler, as shown in this video. See https://youtu.be/1Duj1jh1rlA Mine behaved like his. If this is even a proper test for a toyota. My noise does sound like The Drake alt coupler pulley clutch\decoupler here: See https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/39853-issue-with-squeal-coming-from-engine-area/ Although mine also sounds like this alt rear bearing noise here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTNM5X7ufk4 So, is this actually the alternator making this noise? Separate issue: Turning accessory pulleys/tensioner/idlers by hand with belt off and hot engine I hear no noise, see no wobble and feel no oddities. Pulling/pushing them in and out, laterally back and forth(rocking), and laterally side to side I feel some play. Some more then others. pwr steer pump moves in and out a lot. tensioner same but less and also side to side. wtr pump moves in and out, but less so and rocks back and forth. AC comp moves in all 3 directions, but not by a lot. Upper idler rocks back and forth more so. Lower idler rocks back and forth just a little. I don't know how much is acceptable/normal or if I should be concerned about some of these. The Alternator I could feel no play. toyota 2007 2gr fe engine (comes in many toyota models and lexus too)

When I unplug the 3 wire alternator plug the noise stops. When i plug it back in, the noise starts immediately for 1/2 a second, then stops for 3 to 5 seconds before starting again. once noise starts it does not stop. The alternator usually starts making this noise after engine warms up for 10 to 15 minutes. Once in a while the noise starts after 2 minutes from a dead cold start. Just today for the 1st time it ran for 37 minutes with NO noise, then i shut her down for 2 minutes and restarted the engine, then after 45 seconds the noise started. 2 different screwdrivers touching front, mid section and rear of the alternator, with other end in my ear and I hear nothing. Same with short hose touching or just very near alt. I cant reverse spin the Alt coupler pulley clutch\decoupler, as shown in this video. See https://youtu.be/1Duj1jh1rlA Mine behaved like his. If this is even a proper test for a toyota. My noise does sound like The Drake alt coupler pulley clutch\decoupler here: See https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/39853-issue-with-squeal-coming-from-engine-area/ Although mine also sounds like this alt rear bearing noise here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTNM5X7ufk4 Separate issue: Turning accessory pulleys/tensioner/idlers by hand with belt off and hot engine I hear no noise, see no wobble and feel no oddities. Pulling/pushing them in and out, laterally back and forth(rocking), and laterally side to side I feel some play. Some more then others. pwr steer pump moves in and out a lot. tensioner same but less and also side to side. wtr pump moves in and out, but less so and rocks back and forth. AC comp moves in all 3 directions, but not by a lot. Upper idler rocks back and forth more so. Lower idler rocks back and forth just a little. I don't know how much is acceptable/normal or if I should be concerned about some of these. The Alt I could feel no play.

someone said maybe its the belt, which I changed a few hundred miles ago. they say spray water on belt and if it stops noise, then its the belt.

I just started hearing this high pitched tinkle sound the other day. It only starts after engine heats up. I never heard it before, so it's a new noise. Cant hear it with high revs, but it might just be drowned out by louder engine. First occurred after first startup and warm up of engine after about 1.5 to 2 months not run at all while i swapped out the three rear coils. I dont think it's anything that I did, but I know it was not making this noise previously. Ideas? 190k miles, 2gr fe toyota engine, I have no idea of the maintenance history but suspect it's been kinda neglected. Within the last 6 months ive done most all the scheduled maintenance items and a few more, like replace trany oil (twice). Listen to noise here. https://imgur.com/a/TE4NRZE This site always gets speaker to off, so you need to click the speaker symbol in upper right of uploaded file. tks, p

no oil on section of plug that sits outside the combustion chamber.

Ive seen a lot of recommendations for denso COPs and Im interested, but how can you know they are not counterfeit? I see my two local auto stores selling them for more then my toyota parts dept sells OEM. Then i see this site. https://www.densoproducts.com/ Selling denso COPs cheaper then dealer OEM. But is that site really Denso, direct from the manufacturer? I need the electrical plastic plug that plugs into the COP. Dealer parts 10$ each. Someone needs to make a quality aftermarket, but who? ditto gas cap or just the rubber. mine dried out. Dealer 32$. Ouch. Also manifold gasket. Are there any good aftermarket?

See spark plug images. 5 of the six plugs look like the 1st two images below https://imgur.com/gallery/HWxojWN and https://imgur.com/gallery/HNsRAML questionable plug is in these three images: https://imgur.com/gallery/4cxiIIA and https://imgur.com/gallery/5hdPUH9 and after removal and replacement, then sat for 24 hours(was not driven): https://imgur.com/gallery/0wPFTvK See the electrode crud and oil on threads. It looks like even more oil after removal and replacement. One plug only. Is there issue with that cylendar? 2007 Engine 2gr fe with 190k miles

2007 avalon LE, 189k miles. Don't know maintenance history. Has not been to dealer service since 2010. Got it three months ago (gift from wife's family to her) and it's been fine around town for us. West central florida. It was shipped here from Delaware. That is where it was bought new and her family used it. I did much routine maintenance on it in those three months. It was making loud clicking noise, which this engine is known for, but once I changed the engine oil and ran it for awhile it quieted down. I think oil was too thick. Both engine and trans-axle oils had been recently changed, but since I did not know what was used, I changed them again. Both were over full when we got the car. I also fully bleed the brakes. The peddle was very hard and pushed down very slowly while bleeding both rears. After bleeding all, the peddle still feels mushy. Ive literally fully bleed brakes maybe 15 times in my life and Ive never experienced either of those. Front three spark plugs looked fine, except they were 0.040". I left them there. I didn't check the rear 3. We set out to go to ohio and after 90 minutes it started to shake intermittently for a few seconds at a time and after a while engine and VSC and stability lights came on. Sometimes the engine light flashed. Decided to turn around and go home. On entire trip home I never felt the shake, but it might have still been doing it just less so. A few days later went to two different auto parts stores and used their code reader and at 1st store he said "its mis firing on cyl 4....and 6...and 1 and 2....and 5...and #3. It's misfiring on all cyl." I never asked him for the codes. Then I drove directly to other store and he said p0353 and p0300. Then he mentioned the OCV. A few days later I drove to another auto parts store and they gave me printout: p0301, secondary DTC p0300, p0301, p0302, p0303, p0304, p0305, p0306, p0353, and c1201. printout listed suggested fixes: replace ignition coils, reset ECM (for c1201). The shake was always very mild and at 1st I thought it was suspension/alignment. We got two new (used tires) installed a few days before the trip. Yes I checked the bolt torque when we got home, then again before we left. Im convinced that it was never misfiring on more then one cyl at a time. It happened at different highway speeds between 60 and 75. That's as slow and as fast as I traveled, so Im not saying it would not happen above or below those speeds. I removed the WW motor and tray and intake manifold. I planned (and still do) to replace all 3 rear COPs. However, I don't expect to find the problem thru testing in drvway since it was intermittent, but still I wanted to check some other things. COPs for rear cyl 1 and 3 the electrical plug tabs broke off when pressed with my thumb. All three were plugged in tight. # 3 and # 5 cyl rear spark plugs the threads are glossy, like they had oil on them. #1 was wet with oil. See pics attached. Notice for cyl #1 the oil is not on the lower threads and it's stained in the middle. These were also set to 0.040" and I decided that I should gap them all to the proper spec 0.043. I gaped and replaced them. Over night I decided to swap the rear plugs with the front (and gap those too), so if she codes Ill see if it moved to front bank. When removing cyl # 1, I see it's much more wet with oil and the oil goes all the way down to the gasket. How'd it get worse over night? I didnt drive the car. So, maybe the spark plug hole was full of oil. yuck. But the plug ceramic was not oily. hmmm Since then ive read what looks like toyota docs online saying don't adjust the plugs. p0301 is cyl #1. The rear middle plug (p0353) was not torqued, it was just hand tight, but seated. The rear driver side plug (#5) was not even seated. These two plug electrodes look exactly the same as the front plugs that were all tight. The only plug that's electrode looks different is cyl #1, the one with wet threads. Plugs are ngk Dilfr6d11. gas cap don't feel very tight, so Im going to get OEM replacement. It looks like I should remove the valve cover and spark plug tubes and replace the thread sealant. That's a job i don't know if I'm up to. Several things Ive read say one code might cause many or all of these other codes and that p035x should be fixed first, before looking into p030x codes. But that means putting her all back together to see if she still has this intermittent issue. Then taking her apart again... I checked voltage between COP wire harness contact # 1 and # 4, between #1 and ground, and ohms between # 4 and gnd. All fine. I cant find info on what to check on the injector's wire harness contacts without running the engine. I saw wire diagram showing that one of the contacts is common on all 6 plugs, Id like to test that, but dont know which contact it is. Each injector measures 13.2 ohms. All vacuum hoses look fine. Saw no physical issues with wire harness. I removed and cleaned the battery to chassis and chassis to engine and chassis to trans grounds. images: rear cyl#1 plug https://imgur.com/a/KuT0NIJ cyl plugs #3 and #5 https://imgur.com/a/kX7Pw6T front https://imgur.com/a/mSKxIyA Thoughts?

small end has groove, but large end no groove. some forums say FSM says Molybdenum disulfide lithium based grease to teeth of the steering rack.

When I replace the boots, I usually add some ball joint chassis grease to the inner ball joint. Should I also turn the steering wheel completely right and add grease to as many of the rack splines/teeth that i can reach? note these pics are not mine, just pics I found on internet to illustrate: https://imgur.com/a/iAxi78S Also, can I use standard worm roller clamp for the large end?

vehicle was gift in april to my wife from her out of state mother. It was right after her job shut down as non essential. So, lacking the money for insurance and the 420$ for 1st time registration from out of state, it is not being driven. Ive driven it around the block a few times, but unless it's running at least 20 to 30 minutes, it does more harm then good. Car battery was dead the last few times, so now every few weeks im charging it up. yesterday the fob would not open the door. No beep. nothing. So, fob or car battery dead. I opened door with mechanical key. Fob logo held against the start button does nothing, so must be dead car battery. I open hood and hooked up and turned on charger. Immediately, the horn or alarm sounds. It never did that before. I remove the charger fast. I recover from the surprise noise and try it again. Again horn or alarm sounds. I disconnect battery from car and charge it that way. After a few hours, I remove the charger and reconnect battery to car and the alarm sounds. Now i know it was the alarm, cuz by the time I get cable off it had cycled two times. What's going on here? Wife says car don't have alarm. I show her the alarm button on fob. She says oh, we(her family) never used that. ideas? pa

2003 toyota tacoma 2wd 5sp 2.4L the transmission drain and fill plugs have very shallow hex heads and no matter how hard I try, my socket has slipped off several times rounding the corners. id like to get plugs with better heads. Does anyone know what might fit? I like the never toyota Allen heads, but Id settle for a standard hex head. What is the bolt diameter, the thread count and length? Id rather not have to use them one more time, so checking when they are out next time might mean using them again. Also, I have no access to dies to measure these. Ive asked toyota, but as usual, they are no help. Ive asked a few aftermarket automotive parts makers, but again no help. pa

got new multi meter and now it reads 7.3 ohms and 2.98 when probes reversed at 90 degrees F.

could not find alternative VVT-i hose, so bought OEM. It has the yellow stripe. There is a metal plate that blocks view of the lower end of the hose. I dont know why that plate is needed. I might leave it off that way i can inspect the entire VVT-i hose including upper and lower ends. Also bought new gaskets and that filter that fits in the upper VVT-i line. After a few long runs with new engine oil and filter, its not making as much ticking noise. maybe the oil was too thick. Maybe too many short trips. I replaced with the recommended 5w/30. I will replace it again frequently for a few times, so it that cleans out whatever is ticking. There is also another noise. I will spin water pump when i replace the serpentine belt. maybe run engine with out belt to see that that changes the noise. this vehicle was bought and operated from new until now in Delaware (2007 to 2020). they use road salts. could that cause the engine oxidation? especially considering that cover that locks air above the valve covers.

I wanna be sure before i buy new one. 2003 taco 2.4L 2wd 5sp 73k miles(not a typo) 2003 Toyota Tacoma Factory Service Manual page SF-25 says 2-3 ohms at 68°F and 0.9-1.3 ohms at 104°F. I get consistent repeatable reading of 162k ohms on 200k DVM scale at 80°F. I cooled it in the fridge and checked the 32°F reading and I get a reading for under 1 second, then it goes infinite. Each time I try, it does the same thing. I get a reading, then it goes infinite. It should be 4-7 ohms. As it warmed up I was able to get a consistent steady repeatable reading of 194k. Then I reversed my DVM leads and its infinite, every time. Then I reverse them again and I get the 194k again. According to the service manual polarity don't matter, unless that's a mistake. Going back to 80°F test to check and I get 180k ohms and when reverse DVM leads I get infinite. That higher reading might be because it might be a little cooler then before. Not by more then 5° though. Next day I get 186k at 77° and 1207k on the 2000k scale. Both times when i reverse polarity I get infinite. That 1207 tells me something about my resistance readings are not right. I just tried the 200 ohm scale and get infinite reading either polarity. I hesitated using the 200 ohm scale because the FSM warns about using full scale resistance readings because it might ruin sensitive electronics. After doing that my 200k and 2000k readings remain the same. Is there something in my house i can test that should measure 100k to 200k ohms to verify that my DVM 200k scale ohms are reading correctly? It does read zero when leads are touched and I just found two 5 ohm resisters that both read 5.8 ohms on the 200 scale and infinite on 200k and 2000k scales. I don't think dirty MAS would read high, would it? OK, I just sprayed it liberally with 70 percent alcohol and let it dry. Readings unchanged. The symptoms don't point strongly toward the MAS. More so a dirty TB. I just cleaned the TB and IAC w/o removing from vehicle. First time cleaning since i boiught taco new in 2003. So, yea I might need to remove to do a better cleaning, but before that I decided to test the MAS. This vehicle drives fine! Just idle sometimes slow and sometimes fast. Slow is more common, then fast. Idle always goes way low when release throttle. It usally recovers, but does stall once in a while, more so with AC on. I think I need new DVM and new MAS. Ur thoughts? tks, pa

Here:

This vehicle has 146k miles and other then service records for years 2007 and 2010, there is no maintenance or repair history. It came to me last month with new looking trans and engine oil, both way over filled and the noisy engine. I drained both oils to proper level. I see a lot of vids on this engine and this noise when cold, however, none sound as loud as mine and also when hot. Here is audio of the sound. https://imgur.com/a/73h9MKr This sound is present when engine cold and hot. Maybe my imagination, but it might be more noisy when hot. The audio is only 7 seconds, sorry bout that, but it's a constant sound. Note that that page opens with the video playing but sound x-ed out, so u need to turn on the sound. If you dont hear the engine running, then up ur volume and you will hear it in the background. Right after shutdown if i check the engine or trans oil, the dip stick handles are OUCH! hot. Hotter then any engine Ive ever checked and Ive checked a lot. Does that mean anything? Dash temp gauge was at 50%. Engine compartment is definitely much more hot when my 2 banger 2003 tacoma is. The mentioned 2010 48k miles service was for the VVT-i LSC90K KIT,OIL HOSE,NO.1 part 0400933131. Looking, I dont see the yellow that indicates the replacement hose, so maybe it was not really changed, or maybe the yellow has burned off. Either way i need to service this soon, because if it was done at 48k, well then it's been another 98k more miles since it was replaced and Ive read of these replacement hoses also failing. Im not up to replacing with the solid pipe right now, so I'll use rubber maybe some goodyear hi temp hi pressure hose and I wont let it go past another 10 or 20k miles before i address it again. Then engine and accessories look very oxidized, but Ive seen a few other vids showing the same, so must be ok? This oxidation? wipes off much easier then any non automotive aluminum oxidation that Ive dealt with in the past. Ive read a few comments about PVC fumes helping lead to the VVTi hose failure, so Im thinking to leave off that engine cover? Of course, Im also going to replace the PVC valve. Thoughts? tks, pa

hat are the best brands for: front disk brakes wheel bearing seals and grease 2003 tacoma with 68k miles on it. 2wd, 5 speed. 2.3L engine. No options except the enhancement package (AC, allow wheels, painted bumpers, and 2 extra front speakers). No short trips under 5 miles. Rarely driven on the highway. No off roading, no mud. Although many of the roads here are packed shell rock and very old worn out asphalt. West central florida. 3 miles from the beach. Most times its just used like a car. very rarely anything heavy transported, although seven times since 2003 I loaded her up to and maybe even beyond the rated capacity. Finally I need new front brakes and will repack the front wheel bearings at the same time. Once in 14 years not too bad, huh? Should I go OEM or are there equal or better quality after market parts available. tks, pa

I replaced my fuel filter on my 2003 2.4L tacoma 2wd. 65k miles. At the same time I checked the valves. No valve adjustment needed. Now I hear 4 to 6 rapid metallic clicks when i start the engine cold. Once it happened when it was warm. This fuel filter is not original equipment. ideas? tks, pa

Toy book says 80w-90 or 85w-90 for 0 degree F or below. Straight 90 wt for above 0 degree. Here in central Fl, its never below 40 F and never below 60 when I drive. Typically 75 tp 95 F. However, I cant find straight 90 wt anywhere. All that I can find is 80w-90. Is that ok? Also, its carquest brand. It is API service GL-5 which is what toy calls for. OK to use? This will be my 1st and maybe only diff oil change. I do want this vehicle to last forever. 2003 2.4L 2wd 5 speed std cab 62,000 miles tks, pa

How do I troubleshoot this? All fuses are good. 2003 2.4L 2wd 5 speed std cab 62,000 miles thanks for any help. pa