TooLate

2014 Sienna cigarette lighter/ aux power port is dead. Lower port near floorboard is hot but upper (easy to access) port is dead. How difficult is this to replace? (already checked fuses and also chargers etc in other cars and they work fine. It's the port not the appliances to be operated. Approximate cost from dealer or will an after market socket suffice? Finally, will the cap to cover unoccupied port be included with OEM replacement from dealer parts?

03 Cam. washer reservoir light came on yesterday. Tried to top it off and while no fluid drained out on floor, level in tank never seemed to change. Judging from YouTubes etc, replacement is a 'disassemble the car' procedure. Primary question is where is the fluid going & why don't I see it dripping out anywhere or is the tank much larger than it looks? May need to resort to a cabin carried spray bottle. TL

When I presented such a question to my dealer I was told that it could not be done due to wiring harness & subsequent logistics problems. Even when I tried to suggest that the end result did not need to meet OEM requirements (coordinated with steering column light control lever, Hi/Lo auto on/off etc), but rather to operate as any after market system would (manual switch attached to dash panel/fuse block etc) they still acted like it was not possible. Don't see why not, still today. My use was on a 2000 Sienna using the round OEM lights off the later model Hybrid Camry. They resemble private aircraft landing light elements. You might check into that possibility...not sure of flood spread etc. Still seems like it could work using plumbers tape etc. I'll be interested to see what responses you get. Good Luck TL

Yep. Timing Belt and or Serpentine Belt. They run just about anything that spins on the engine. We had the same "pitch" and get it when the mileages (on our two toyotas) reach milestones. The last time, the gentleman in front of us had NOT heeded the warning and the belt broke while he was driving. It caused so much damage to various components of the engine that his bill was nearly $4000 !! !!. We scheduled ours on the spot due to an impending hip replacement and subsequent frequent trips to rehab. The $400 seems high but not when you compare it to not doing the replacement. When you consider how many rotations that thing makes even idling in 100K miles... it's pretty cheap preventative medicine...comparatively. Especially when you peak under there and see all the stuff that the belt runs. We have found that shopping around to various dealerships can save a few hundred dollars on a large bill...may want to consider driving to a nearby town too. We drove 80 miles and saved $250 for the same service. TL

Did you do this project or do the 08 horns sound differently? I know there are a ton of improvements in your model over mine. Sorry for the slow response...been a little layed up. Thanks, sounds like it's worth a try. TL

Hey: Haven't been able to check this out yet but it's still in the plans. Appreciate the help. Just noted the PM problem workaround on the board. Will advise when this project works its way to the top of the list again. Thx TL

Welcome and congratulations! Just a thought but while several years older, my sunroof often passes the fully closed or sealed position if I don't get off the activator button. It has always done this. The easiest way to tell if it's seated correctly is to pick an open road, drive it to highway speed, slide the headliner back and listen for wind noise. BUT, before you do this procedure, open it completely and get out to see if anything might be hindering the glass from seating properly...twig, leaf, rubber seal etc. Now, back to the highway...up to speed etc...While someone else drives!! Bump the activator front/rear directions until there is the least amount of noise. Check to see if that helps when you get out of the car etc. If it does, there may be an adjustment on either the travel distance of the glass or the sensor that tells the car to sound (or not sound) the alarm. Just a shot... Either way, make sure the dealer knows and fixes it for you. 30 days and a new car...somethings not right and they need to address it. Hope this helps. TL

Thanks folks, Just had it serviced yesterday. Levels should be topped off. I'll listen more carefully. Don't hear the same thing in the other Toy. (Sienna). It was a while between services this time and the low levels, may have been allowing air to be pulled back into the coolant when we cooled down to our snuggly 4 deg F. It did seem to be rpm dependent...i.e. as I accelerated I could hear the fluid "squirt" through the system (like a half full and non-bled catsup squeeze bottle). Seemed (as you say) to leave about the time the thermostat should be opening up. Don't know why I didn't make the connection...good question for "Mr. Obvious". Thanks again. Stay tuned... tl

If I understand your scenario, it sounds like you are noticing a normal variation in the operation of voltage dependent accessories. If you look closely (darker neighborhood street vs a well lit boulevard) you should see a slight change in the brightness of your headlights that is engine rev dependent as well. (low idle...dimmer lights...higher revs...brighter lights) I think what you are seeing is the normal fluctuation of these items. As the engine revs increase, the amount of voltage created by the electronic support equipment (alternator etc) is increased proportionately and more volts and current pass through the circuits of the appliance (blower motor, headlights etc) and the faster/brighter they run. To this end, it would appear that your mechanic isn't pulling your leg and is correct. That said, however, if it's a major dim of lights at night on idle at a stop light or a major drop in blower fan speed, there may be cause for concern. Someone help me here, but it seems (in my experiences over several hundred thousand miles) that if an alternator, regulator, or other part of the "charging circuit" is going bad (battery), this fluctuation is more pronounced when the appliances are, in effect, running entirely off the alternator etc. On the light side, there may be a belt that just needs tension increased a twitch. My personal (albeit brief) experience with remote starters (especially when done by the individual vs a "shop") are that they're often a source of problems. The ONE I had, I had removed after it killed the engine while driving several times (previous owners kids installed it)! May be a bare wire causing a ground situation that may be slowly trickling your batter down. Just throwin stuff out there....30/30 guaranteed accurate ... 30 feet or 30 seconds whichever comes first ;) TL

That is a good idea and one that I considered first off. I have a "minder" in my email for tire rotation and inflation checks so about every 5000 they get checked, rotated, balanced, etc... since I put about 130 mi/day on it, it doesn't take long for this to trip. Last time, I had the alignment done as well. No real improvement. I think the TSBs that you all have noted need to be checked into and as soon as the temp gets above 12 deg on a day off, I'll get to the Toy Dlrshp and have it checked into. Thanks for the good advice. Gotta hit the road. TL

Know the type...if it starts when the key is turned and stops when you push on the brake, it doesn't need attention...(bald tires, sludge for oil, molasses for trans fluid etc).. Is there a ready site where I can print off the TSB's mentioned from the Solara Post...I find that helps the guy out front at the Serv. Dept. be convinced that I actually DO know what I'm talking about at times. And, if I have them "in-hand" I don't have to put up with the stall of some type of "no longer available" or "we can't get them anymore" etc. Thanks for your help...again. TL

Excellent point...same here. On a 65 mile commute, a cupaJOE can be critical especially at 12 deg outside. I was just kicking around putting in some electronics (scanner or CB) for road condition info and for entertainment (NoDoz via electron) and would like to get them nearby but recessed to keep from losing too much space...and to keep it looking somewhat "clean". Old EMT's never die, they just "standby"...and it never hurts to check out the road ahead with a cooperative truck driver. If I just knew the tricks to snap out the plastic liners (without cracking them), I could check for myself and replace them if it doesn't look like it's a good idea. I don't want to ruin the "trade in" by hackin up the interior...sort of like the "outdoors"...leave it at least as good as you found it... Besides, a good Octopus cup holder or a wide bodied bottom weighted insulated capped travel cup (Lambert's Restaurant) will do the same thing. TL

Has no one ever asked this question or added auxiliary electronics in this area? "Somebody help me"...

Hi, Leighcm: Thanks for the quick response. I was pretty sure that the 2 units were basically the same and that the TSB's would apply. I'll give that a try. Oh... the rim....hmmmm. Well, it IS the "chuck hole season" here in the MidWest (some require AWD to get out of)... But, don't you think I'd notice some balance issues at various speeds or feel the steering wheel "wobble" if the rim was bent? (I have that problem with a FS Pickup so I know what it is and what it feels like) but don't notice it w/my Camry. Thanks again for the response. TL

Camry SE 03 4 Cyl w/120M miles. Noticing on initial cold start drive off's under acceleration a "scritching" sound behind or near firewall (drivers side). Sounds like fluid with a few bubbles in it being forced into small diameter tubing (like a high pitched version of a ketchup squeeze bottle...just filled but with occasional air bubble in it). Only happens first 10 miles or so, only from stop light/sign under accel. Does not occur during decel. or when rev'd in neutral while stopped at the stop light or while applying or releasing brake pressure. Am I low on some type of fluid? (no spots on driveway etc) Seems to be more frequently noticed in cold weather. Similar sound occurs after precipitation but that's on the other side and is a trickle sound vs the pressurized "scritch". (Is there a drain I need to clean to stop the trickle?) Curiously awaiting replies. TL