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Toyota Owners Club

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Posts posted by Toyota Owners Club

  1. 26 minutes ago, Rangerwint said:

    Merhabalar, A132L kodlu otomatik şanzımanlı ve 2e kodlu karbüratörlü motora sahip Toyota Tercel marka aracım var. Araç LPG'lidir. Yokuş yukarı çıkarken oldukça zayıf. Dik yokuşları ancak 10 km/saat hızla çıkabiliyor, bazen 60 km/saat hıza çıkıyor ama yokuşlarda 20 km/saat hıza kadar yavaşlıyor. Motor tamircisi motorda herhangi bir sorun olmadığını söyledi. Egzozun tıkalı olduğunu düşündüm ve egzoz sistemini değiştirdim ancak sorun devam ediyor. Daha sonra LPG'de sorun olur diye düşündüm ve aracı benzinle çalıştırmayı denedim ama sorun hala aynı.

    Translated from Turkish

    Hello, I have a Toyota Tercel brand vehicle with A132L code automatic transmission and 2e code carburetor engine. The vehicle is LPG powered. It's pretty weak going uphill. It can only climb steep slopes at a speed of 10 km/h, sometimes it accelerates to 60 km/h, but slows down to 20 km/h on slopes. The engine mechanic said there was no problem with the engine. I thought the exhaust was clogged and replaced the exhaust system but the problem persists. Then I thought there might be a problem with LPG and tried to start the vehicle with gasoline, but the problem is still the same.

  2. I have never heard of a new vehicle going back for retorquing of the wheel nuts as they would have been fitted at the factory (unless they had been removed for replacement wheels or any other work) and would have been torqued to the correct settings.

    When an independent garage or tire fitting company asks you to recheck your torque settings after a certain mileage it is usually because there is a waiver in place to ensure that if they haven't torqued the wheels correctly and something occurs then it becomes your responsibility.

    If you feel that you wish to confirm with your dealer for peace of mind then it will just be a phone call to reassure yourself

  3. Hi....welcome to the Club

    What are the exact codes you are getting from the vehicle?

    I wonder if there are two different issues with the vehicle and being confused as the same fault?

  4. Hi...welcome to the Club

    I have always believed that some cars have a soul so I know what you mean.
    I own a BMW Z3 and have had it for years, it never puts a foot wrong and I cannot find the heart to part with it even though it is not driven much

    Plus, as you say, its enjoyable to maintain, unlike most modern cars
    Good to have you onboard!

     

  5. My first thoughts are that you may have gone through deep water and induced some into the cylinders.
    A wet air filter which may have dried out and will look very crinkled would be an indicator of this.

    When this occurs it creates a hydraulic lock which then bends the con-rods and slightly reduces the compression pressures in some of the cylinders but can leave the engine running fine but with the bottom of the piston skirt slightly contacting the crankshaft counterweights which can give that noise. Once the skirt is worn away then the noise disappears and leaves no trace that the rods are slightly bent except for the reduced power and slight lumpiness

  6. I would say that your last comment is the most likely cause

    Alternatively if anything has caused damage (inside or outside) to the windshield area where the ADAS sensors are located then this also could be the cause along with damage to the grille area if there is a radar or camera located behind the badge area

  7. has it got the function where you wave your leg under the rear fender area to open the tailgate rather than having to use your hands when loaded with shopping ?

    maybe when the garage door comes down it activates the tailgate opening function?

    In this case you will need to lock the car and this will not occur in the future

  8. Most of the collision avoidance sensors are in the top of the windscreen area but there is also a radar or camera behind the badge are in the grille 

    you may have parking sensors in the front bumper or this could be a camera depending on the vehicle spec levels

  9. I know the noise you are referring to and I would be tempted to believe it is coming from the master cylinder side rather than the pedal side.

    It may just be worth pulling the master cylinder back from the servo and visually ensuring the actuating rod is in place and that nothing is untoward in the vicinity (leaking master cylinder, actuator rod not rubbing against anything, etc)

    Also worth checking the vacuum pipe connection is secure as sometimes if leaking it can create a rasping sound when the pedal is applied.
    This also applies to the pedal side where it can also be heard when the pedal is applied as the valve switches from vacuum to ambient air which works the servo diaphragm. If this is the case then you may need a new brake servo

  10. Sounds like loose connections in the engine bay if the running fault is associated with bumpy roads.
    Start with checking the battery connections and terminals are tight.
    Check the earth leads going to the engine/trans are tight and not damaged

    When the code appears again then leave running and fiddle with leads in the engine bay to see if anything changes in the way of running (Ford call this the 'wiggle test' and is by far the best way to diagnose where a fault is)

  11. Thermostat would be my first thought and only other one would be the fact that the heater matrix may need another back-flushing if lots of debris came out on the previous flush then it may have dislodged more of it and it is sitting in the matrix.
    A temperature gun works well to measure various parts of the system to see where there is a hot or cold spot

  12. Did you replace the crank sensor with a reputable make?

    a lot of cheap aftermarket sensors (from dubious sources) don't work from the off and definitely worth trying a better quality sensor

    Also check you have spark/fuel, etc as this will not be present if the crank sensor is bad.
    If it is fuelling/sparking then it is unlikely to be the sensor at fault

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