stevelaw

Funny. Here in the south, it seems like there are more than enough junkyards to provide enough competition to keep the prices down. No problem at all getting parts at a good price here. Even for brand new Toys.

Well, there are other things it could be. But I only mentioned the fuel filter because you live in my climate/area. Change your plugs lately? Or take them out and clean them?

I bet he can get a good price on a used unit as a whole at a junkyard.

Think of the evidence issues here. You'll never be able to determine what kind of gas you are getting without funding litigation as a plaintiff. Your state agriculture commission understands this fact. A long time ago, I had a job at an Amoco station. I used to do the night tickets. My boss, Peter, used to save all of the oil we took out of cars we changed oil for and save it in 55 gallon drums with drain plugs in the bottom. At night, he'd take the used motor oil and pour it into the diesel fuel tank!! So these customers would come and fill up their Volvos with what they thought was diesel, but they were getting about 5 to 10 percent used motor oil.

Sounds like you live somewhere pretty cold. When's the last time you changed the fuel filter?

I did a post on this a short time ago--you will need a bent butterknife to pry it out.

Some things you might want to add to your "do it yourself " list, which are easy and cheap, is to replace the brake fluid and power steering fluid with good high quality full synthetic. Even if you just drain the resivoir and refill, after a while it will mix in with the existing old fluid. I only mention this if the brakes have not been bled in a while and you do not plan to do so anytime soon because you already recently replaced pads and shoes, etc. And most people never replace the power steering fluid, so why not do it one time with some fluid you'll never have to replace again?

Yeah. go ahread and ask at least one other shop what they think and do not tell them what the first mechanic said. Also, get the Valvoline power steering fluid. I am using it, as you can see from my other posts on this issue. Yeah. go ahread and ask at least one other shop what they think and do not tell them what the first mechanic said. Also, get the Valvoline power steering fluid. I am using it, as you can see from my other posts on this issue. And how many miles are on it? Got a belt loose? You just might. $25 for a new belt at Pep Boys.

1. Well...did you ask any other shops if they also recommended replacing it? 2. Valvoline full synthetic power steering fluid might help, instead of just stop leak. Not to prevent leaks, but to prevent further wear to a possibly already damaged rack and pinion. Is it making any more noise or anything?

Yeah, I have info on that in the manual. Just give me an email address to send it to.

DO you have a swivel headed socket wrench? And a set of extensions? You have to get around the throttle body on that car.

Yup, you cut the signal and cleared it.

See my previous post for those having steering issues, on the topic of Valvoline synthetic power steering fluid. I am the guinea pig for the board running the stuff right now. I can say the power steering pump is quieter now, at least to some degree.

I think there is a related TBS on this---so you should be under warranty for more than one reason. The TSB number is NV008-05, related to windshield and front door noise.

If the light switch does not have that setting for daytime running lights.......

Yeah, Fidgits is right, but it would behoove you to go to Crutchfield's website and call the 1-800 number to speak with a human as well. They'll tell and sell you whatever you need to convert. When you go to take that unit out, let me know. See all my other posts on this. [

Today I did a 1 week checkup on the power steering. I thought this would be appropriate after experimenting with a new PS fluid. Set the parking brake and put it in neutral and had a friend turn the wheel hard to port and hard to starboard while I listened up front with the hood opened. It sounded quieter. No change in performance, but I'll probably never have to replace the PS fluid again. Steering feels good. Syntec is worth five bucks and 30 minutes of time. After all, peace of mind is a major consideration as to why us Toy owners buy Toys in the first place.

I'll try to see if I can get a TSB on it.

Please keep the rest of the board members as to how it turns out...and any tips you can share!

You have a short or an aftermarket addition causing a current drain. What's the status?

You're right. Plus, I'm thinking that if he's got an intermittent problem that turns out to be RPM sensitive, the tech can store the waveforms for known RPM ranges and compare.

I have assembled a lot of engines in my day. One trick we used to do when cranking up an engine for the first time was to use--I kid you not--CORN OIL for assembly lube. This let the rings break in quicker (we would change the oil fairly quickly afterwards). Your rings have not yet settled in. It's going to be about 1500 miles before they do. Your mileage will increase after they do. How much? Yo no se.

Check out this link to the good people at Crutchfield: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-p1SUH2tDoXX/c...sp?id=13854&t=3

By the way, before doing this job, it's a good idea to consider FIRST looking at new door speaker prices online. Taking your door panel off is a job you want to do as seldom as possible. Here's how to get the crank handle off: it's held on by a horshoe clip that clips into the handle itself. Get a thin cotton rag, like those red ones you buy at the auto parts store to work on your car with. Don't fold it: just hold one end of it in each hand, and slide it left and right to wiggle it under the door handle. Keep wiggling it left and right while pulling up on the rag. This will catch the horshoe clip and lift it up so you gan get it out with a little flathead or your finger. Then pull the (broken) door handle latch towards you and unscrew the one philips head screw in there. Then unscrew the 2 philips or Torx head screws in the armrest. NOW you can pry the plastic clips that hold the door panel on with a door clip tool,a pickle fork, or a metal paint scraper. Be careful not to pull the clips out of the panel when you pry them out of the holes in the metal door: you want the clips to stay in the door panel so that it will be easy to punch the door panel back into place. Then, peel the plastic layer off. By the way, before doing this job, it's a good idea to consider FIRST looking at new door speaker prices online. Taking your door panel off is a job you want to do as seldom as possible.

Well, have you been checking the leak often enough to at least keep the resivoir full?