stevelaw
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Posts posted by stevelaw
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I think GM just sold its 8% ownership stake in Isuzu, like less than a week ago. As for Suzuki, I think they make some engines for GM, but that's about the extent of it. But I predict that the Daewoo cars will get better. Just as the Hyundai cars are better than they were just a couple of years ago. It's a bit scary that we are going to make the Hyundais right here in GA.
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Some Camrys and Avalons that came out of Georgetown had various problems. I hate to say it, but it's true.
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I hope yours was made in Japan and not in Kentucky. But nevertheless, with 145K, go ahead and spray engine cleaner a bit and wipe it down near plugs #1 and #2. The valve cover and cylinder head. Waipe it off and drive fora day or 2 and look at it again. You should see where the leak is coming from. Sounds like a valve cover gasket gone bad---hey, even though it's Toy, it's 145K miles. But an oil leak is not the cause of your stalling. That's something else.
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Yeah, Big Blue should certainly do that. But for the present, they are in bed with Daewoo. So the Koreans are teaching them a few things to start them off. But Detroit will never be emotionally content with learning from the land of the morning calm, you know?
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Those two rotors are different thicknesses, are'nt they?
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Can you open the door from inside if you take one hand and hold the bezel (rectangular shaped bracket) firmly against the door while using the other hand to operate the lever?
I have 98 corolla LE. Yesterday evening after switching off my car, I was opening the front door to get out of the car. The inside door handle broke off while I was trying to open the door. I tried little bit but I could not open the door and was stuck inside. I had to ask my wife to open the door from outside. When I searched little bit inside to see what broke, I saw a screw and small spring were lying on the mat. The handle is still there in its original place but feels very very loose and can fall anytime. If I press the handle too much all the way, then I can still open the door from inside but I am sure the handle will come out any time.
I tried little bit but I could not find an easy way to put that screw and small spring back again in the door handle.
Has anybody experienced this before? any advice how I can fix it myself?
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Is it the 4 or 6 cylinder?
I have a '96 camry, 145K miles with a stalling problem that's getting worse. It'll stall when stopping after high-speed driving. I noticed a lot of info here about stalling problems and started looking into things last night. One thing i did notice was oil on the #1 spark plug. It was on the ceramic part, like the oil was poured in through the wire boot. Is this a leaky valve cover gasket?? How much $ would this cost to fix? Would/could this cause the stalling? TIA
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Yeah: or for that matter, the GTO with the three two-barrelled carb on the 389 engine. Pontiac had a lot of those cars catch fire before they figured out the difference between vacum and mechanically operated secondaries.
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If you spray engine cleaner on everything and then hose it off...you will be able to get a better idea of where the leak is originating from.
Any leaks under the car?
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He's got obd 1. He might not mind the check enging light coming on.
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Absolutley. My 1994 Corolla had very high mileage with no water pump problems.
Incidentally, probably one of the worst water pump designs was the two piece Pontiac V8 pump with the aluminum spacer in it. Totally stupid design. I can only imagine what they were smoking in Detroit at that time.
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Very well described practical explanation. Couldn't have said it better.
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You know what? He ought to go ahead and clean his intake while he's at it.
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All Pennsylvania oils are high in Paraffin and will leave deposits.
My brother in law worked as a Ford salesman for a long time. The older folks that would buy Mercury Grand Marquis, Crown Vickies and the like would tend to get their oil changed at the dealership. For some reason, at that time, the Blue Oval camp was using Quaker State in the cars. Well, after these cars had 50K or 60K on them, all slow driving by these seasoned citizens, they would develop blue smoke on startup. After pulling the valve covers, there would always be this gloppy waxy goo all over the valve guides--paraffin. It would creep down the valve stems into the combustion chambers after shutting the car off in the evening. Then, in the morning, after starting the car, it would burn and smoke would come out of the tailpipe.
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Which engine and how many miles are on it?
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I bet Leighcm could find out.
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Have you tried a little---I stress a LITTLE--belt dressing on it?
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I ended up cleaning the screen too. And I added some Lubegard.
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As the dealer if he used the blue goo , shims, or both.
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I'll try to find it on my server and send it to an email address if you want. But it was really more or less some instructions on how to remove the steering wheel shaft cover to get in there with lubricant. You're not having any resistance in steering are you? Just squeak, right?
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I like Mobil 1's formula, but I have been using a semi synthetic from Mobil: Mobil Clean 7500. The gas mileage improved a bit over conventional oil.
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How did he determine that?
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Did he tell you if the strut mounts were worn when he put th new struts in?
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The new Haynes manual will have a wiring diagram...
new to Toyota
in Avalon Club
Posted
Another one. Welcome to the board, friend, and yes there is a squeak problem. Take the steering column cover off and lube up that insulator. I used WD-40.