stevelaw

Thanks for posting that info. How many miles are on your Camry, by the way?

Well, I can only make an educated guess. It could be a CV joint, you could have lost a bushing somewhere. As for TSBs, I have an Alldata membership. So I can find these things out. Worth every penny when trying to get a dealership to cover a warranty item they do not wish to remedy.

Are you, by any chance, near Richmond? There's a great place there called Bruce Auto Parts in Mechanicsville. I have a number for them: 804-746-5251. I have been there before--used to live there.

Have you checked the J.C. Whitney catalog online?

Of course, but there is now a technical bulletin on this problem. Oh well--it's still a great car.

It's not that difficult to do, if it turns out that the starter is bad. I hope you have metric sockets.

It was a polyurethane insulator. More WD-40 did the trick. Maybe the person who put my steering column in on the assembly line woke up on the wrong side of the bed that morning.

What kind of oil are you thinking of putting in it next? Check out Mobil Drive Clean 7500 at the Mobil website.

Which engine is it?

You ought to be OK---just use good gas.

Sure, no problem. But do remember to check the polarity of the speakers to ensure that they are not out of phase.

There was coolant everywhere? So that means you have TWO bad head gaskets. Is this correct? Did you find coolant in ALL cylinders? We have a big can of worms here if this is true.

YUP---that's the same way I would do it. Thanks for bringing that info to the club.

Which one did you buy? The Dragon?

Welcome on board! I have toured a General Motors plant--the one in Doraville, GA. They were making Pontiac minivans at the time, if I recall. There is a HUGE Hollywood-type sign in the plant that constantly flashed the production goals for the day. The very day I was in the plant, a whole chassis fell off of the assembly line in the top of the plant in a place where the line made a 270 degree turn in a tight area. They spent hours trying to figure out what to do to get the chassis out of the way so as to resume production. They contemplated having 6 guys to physically pick it up-- that didn't work. They ended up cutting the just-assembled chassis into pieces with acetylene torches. The production goal sign was turned off. Now, 6 years later, the firm I work for is currently representing a gentleman who works at the plant and was injured, and required major surgery, when a door fell off of a vehicle at the section of the production line where he was working. Why did the door come off? Apparently, the guy up the line from him forget to put the bolts in. Detroit is is so much trouble that they cannot even see it coming. It's going to end up in a lot of job layoffs.

Have you tried emailing the folks at: http://www.carownermanual.com ?

This car is under warranty, right? You have an antenna problem. I bet your antenna cable is not seated in the connector or you have oxidation/corrosion in there. Take it back to the dealership.

Well, today marks the start of an experiment. I have always preferred to temper my oil with the climate. I always use good oil, 10W40 when it gets very hot, like here in Georgia, and 10W30 in the winter. I have discovered about 1 MPG mileage gain with Mobil Drive Clean 7500 10W30. Today I put Mobil Drive Clean 7500 5W30 in. I'll be tracking mileage closely with this oil to see if I have any additional mileage gains. And don't forget that K&N air filter helps too.

Hi, and welcomt to the Toyota owners club site---FYI, we have a buy and sell section you might want to put your offering on.

Do you have a voltmeter?

5K is probably OK--but you might want to try a semi-synthetic like Mobil Drive Clean 5000 or 7500. I use the 7500 and my car runs great with it, and it is an extended interval oil.

I looked in the Haynes manual for your 2002 Camry---this is all what they have on the wiring diagram: backside--gray = radio fuse # 2, blue/yellow = hot at all times. frontside--pink, front door left door speaker and tweeter --violet, front door left door speaker and tweeter -- light green = front door right door speaker and tweeter -- blue = front door right door speaker and tweeter -- black = left rear speaker --yellow = left rear speaker -- red = right rear speaker -- white = right rear speaker -- brown = ground. Hope that helps because that's all there is. And no mention of polarity on the speaker wires. I hope you have a volemeter to figure it out.

Because they have GREAT customer service. I have bought three car stereos from them. The wiring diagrams from them are always right, they know what fits in which car, and the prices are good. I have had nothing but good experiences with them.

PLEASE tell me that the ebay retailer was NOT a Crutchfield affiliated store.

Hi and welcome...what are you looking to do? Exhaust? Fuel?