stevelaw

There should be one philips head screw on the right side of the glove box, attached to the right side support strut. After you take out the screw, squeeze the sides of the glove box in and lower the glove box until it hangs down and out of the way. Then you can pull the filter out.

When is the last time you put pads and shoes on it?

If the last time you opened the trunk by turning the key counterclockwise, you probably deactivated the trunk lid lever in the passenger compartment. Go back to the trunk and open it again by turning the key clockwise. That should allow the trunk lid lever to work again. Let us know if that does not work. Because the master key should also work after that.

Is it a 5 EFE engine?

OK. It's manual crank windows, right? Not power windows?

So what happened with your MAF sensor? You ended up replacing it, or did you clean it?

if you are going to stretch your oil changes to 5K, check out this link: http://www.mobilclean5000.com/USA-English/...Clean_7500.aspx It's a very good oil for extended change intervals. I use it myself, despite being a 3K guy religiously. I am getting an extra 1 or 2 miles per gallon with it (and the K&N air filter).

Welcome to the board. If your stepdad is a carb rebuilder...then he has a vacum gauge somewhere in his tool kit. Did you run a vacum test to see how many inches it is pulling?

What year Solara is it?

Recently, there have been a few posts from folks who have experienced power steering issues. The following should be of some interest: For several years now, Valvoline has had a SYNPOWER line of synthetic (and semi) products. The specs look good for the Synpower power steering fluid. Also, there is an AAMCO endorsed product made by LubeGard for power steering systems (except Honda) on the market now, sold as an anti-friction additive. I am now the guinea pig for both of these products. Today's project was to drain the power steering system and refill with Syntec power steering fluid and I added the LubeGard product as well. Will keep everyone posted as to fluid condition and any improved steering, if any.

Yeah---definitley clean it and see if you get the code to go away. Let the board members know what happens, OK?

What year Corolla is it?

Agreed. You ought to be able to get those 60K tune up/check issues from a shop for much less. By the way, is the belt making any noise...but it still looks OK? The new Toys seem to generaly have a 90K belt change interval. If you have some belt noise, but it looks OK ans is not loose, you could try a little belt dressing on it.

The trim panel that surrounds the stereo on many Toyotas is held on with push clips. Thepanels generally are removed by using a slim tool to pull the panel from behind straight out, releasing the panel's integreally molded pin inserts (which snap into the clips in the dashboard) from the clips. I ave found that a good tool to do this without marring the vinyl of the dash is made by taking an old thin cheap butterknife and bending the first inch of the tip of it to about a 30 degree angle by using two pairs of vice grips. Then, at least on Toyotas I have worked on, you can pry the panel straight out by working your way around the circumference.

Don't rule out a BAD O2 sensor here---the one behind the cat converter. Test it. See if you get steady voltage of about 200 Mv. If you get a varying voltage that's not steady, then you probably need to replace the cat convertor. But then again, the O2 sensor may not be reading correctly. Got a voltmeter?

Unfortunatley, current drain can wind up as a painstaking effort to diagnose. I am assuming you put a test light between the positive terminal and ground, right?

I think if you contact me through the board's contact member function, that should work. The solenoid is controlled by the ecm. But without tearing the valve body apart, I could not tell you if there is a problem with your clutch packs or what.

Seems like a few folks out there are having auto tranny solenoid problems. Are you no longer under warranty? That's powertrain.

You will not be pleased to know that the solenoid you probably need to replace is in the UPPER valve body, not in the lower valve body. This is not a fun job. I have always had a distaste for valve body dissasembly. If you email me and give me an email address to send the TBS page to for your 1994 Camry, I will send it to you.

Both of you guys with the radio static issue have the same issue: getting the problem solved before the warranty runs out. I have a suggestion for anyone with this problem regarding antenna static: The antenna coax cable is probably not fully seated. But even though these are new cars, before bringing it in to the dealership, go online and find a place to buy a small can of DEOXYIT. Recording studios use it to keep electrical connections such as console 1/4 inch and XLR inputs clean, shiny, and super conductive. Perhaps the dealer will be kind enough to dab some on the antenna connection if they are going to pull the head unit out anyway. The stuff works.

If that port turns out to be an RJ-11 or RJ-12, it would be a 4 or 6 conductor connection designed to save space. But I don't think I have ever seen one on a factory stereo. Ditto for an RJ-45, which is the typical connection for twisted pair networks (CAT3 CAT5, and the new EIAT certified CAT6). It may turn out to be a proprietary modular connector for a remote amplifier connection. Who manufactured the unit?

Well, he really didn't ask that complicated of a question...to an X-mechanic (ASE) who is also an X-network engineer (A+, NET+, CISCO). He merely asked me a question which apparently involves an older car and network/telecommunications issues.

If it really feels like a square jack, then put a phone cord in it and see if it snaps into place. If so, it's an RJ-11 or 12. If not, it's an RJ 45.

I am curious: what does the port look like?

OK. You need to start creating a paper trail here while you are still in warranty. Start setting appointments, one of two, specifically forthe purpose of having the dealer look at your car for this exact problem. Fax the dealership a confirmation letter for each appointment and keep the "transmission successful" sheet. Whatever the result of the service appointment turns out to be, fax them a summary/thanks for looking at my car letter. Then we go up the food chain.