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Posts posted by stevelaw

  1. 1 - Are they "correct" about the front brake rotors and pads needing replacement?

    2 - Are they correct about the rear brake drum needing replacement ?

    You know, without pysically seeing the rotors, I can't tell if they need to be replaced, but at that mileage? Sounds odd to me. As for the rear drum, I doubt that it can't be turned and used. Like fidgits said, get another opinion.

  2. How many miles are on it? And is it the proginal carburator on it?

    Ok, here we go:

    1984 Toyota Tercel Wagon Deluxe

    When I start it: it seems to run very smooth.

    I can drive the car locally and reasonable speeds (45mph and under) and it hasn't given

    me too much problem. Upon getting up around 55-65 MPH it starts spitting and sputtering

    and missing. I give it gas and it sounds like it is bogging down. I let up on the gas and

    most of the time, I can drop down to about 40-45 and it will sputter for a while and then

    sometimes clear up, sometimes sputter for quite sometime with no power and then clear

    up. This has been going on for a few weeks. Then the other day, it did it at low speeds.

    Here's what I've done so far.

    1) Changed and correctly gapped new spark plugs

    2) changed distributor cap and rotor button (rotor button was screwed up)

    3) fuel filter changed

    At low speeds it is completely random when it will happen. It will idle fine when sitting

    still even after I restart immediately when the "sputtering" kills the engine.

    It doesn't matter if the car is warm or cold, it still seems random when this occurs

    unless reaching high speeds which ...it will do this Everytime then.

    No shifting problems, good acceleration otherwise.

    Any ideas on this would be GREATLY appreciated. Please email me:


    Thank You

  3. You're not under any warranty at this time, are you? I think the chemistry of the 2 technologies are similar, but if they are not and you try to use the Zerex, you'd probable be best to flush all of the old coolant out totally.

  4. Mind telling me who does oil anaylsis?

    I'd like to see what a 500 mile result would look like with the Mobil Drive Clean 7500.

    The 3000 mile oil change is the thing of the past, a waste of resources and just some oil company con job now. With oil technology these days, you can go well past 3000 miles. You can go 25K with Amsoil, but I would get an oil analysis first. I'm changing my oil out at the next 5K mile interval and will do an oil analysis then to find out how much longer I can extend the change interval.

    BP owns Castrol so I think we would be referring to Castrol here in the States rather than BP.

  5. Personally, I never wait more than 3000 miles for a total oil/filter change. And I am still using the Mobil Drive Clean 7500. I get good mileage with it, so you might do better with the Mobil 1 super synthetic. But I am hesitant to use ANY oil for more than 3000 miles. I think Humanoid has a good idea with 2 filter changes, but I don't do it.

    I also don't know about the BP oil. How long have they been making a synthetic? I used to use Nitrex sometimes.

    I am planning to change the oil that i am using now for my toyota avalon 2005 from BP oil which is used for 5000 kilometer to Mobil1 super synth oil which is for 10000 kilometer so i want to know two things:

    - Is Mobil1 super synth oil that is for 10000 kilometer is better than BP oil that is for 5000 kilometer with telling the reasons?

    - Regarding Toyota Avalon 2005+ Engine Oil Filter, Can i use it with 10000 kilometer oil or its made only for 5000 kilometer oil?

  6. I think you can do it without taking the panel off...but if you were to do it yourself, there is a door fastener removal tool you can get at any auto parts store for less than 10 bucks. I have also removed the fasteners with a "pickle fork" (ball joint tool). They are small plastic push-in anchors that run around the perimiter of the door panel. Probably 8 or 10 of them. They are very easy to remove.

  7. DTC P1705 Direct Clutch Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction is the code you have. This sensor detects the rotation speed and compares it with the speed sensor. You might have a problem with the wiring harness going to the sensor, and not the sensor itself--the sensor itself might not be bad.

  8. Once you get inside that door panel, look to see if there are any spacers/washers/bolts/other hardware down in the bottom of the door. Sounds like something that holds the track to the mounting points on the door has come loose---or off. Happened to my 1994 Corolla--the screw that held the track to the door came loose, this made the window misalign with the track, this made the window then come off of the track.

    i have a 98 camry LE and accidentally knocked the window out when i closed the door when i got out because i had the window down. oops. took the door apart and popped the window back in, but it happened again. even with the window not al the way down it was about half way. any ideas on how to fix/modify it to keep it from coming off track. i mean im not slamming the door. im closing it very very nicely. and dont say the obvious dont roll the windows down.

  9. With gas prices as high as they are right now, the opportunity is more ripe than ever for unsubstantiated claims about fuel additives to spew forth. I am surprised, frankly, that 100 new gasoline treatment/additive companies have not arisen in the last year or so.

    A lot of fuel additives that claim to increase mileage are comprised of toluene, methyl ethyl ketone, alcohol, etc., which you can buy at home depot cheaper by the quart.

    But as always, put the lawyer hat on, and to more closely examine how much of a problem the gas additive unsubstantiated claim problem goes, see the following link:


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