Leighcm

I don't know...I have Facebook, but couldn't tell you the last time I looked at it...

Welcome! 300k is a big number...got your money's worth out of that one!

Check the sticker on the door jam (may also be in the glove box). That will give you the proper PSI...keep in mind it's the proper PSI when the tires are cold. 42 does sound quite high to me also.

Are you a wiper blade dealer?

What's almost certainly happening is that you don't have satellite radio. Most Toyota/Lexus/Scion products built in the last few years come from the factory "Satellite ready". What that means is that there is a "Sat" button on the radio, the radio is capable of displaying and playing satellite radio, but the satellite module itself is not installed. In order to get satellite radio, you'll have to purchase the module, have it installed, and then satellite will play through the regular radio. The Toyota system will be much more expensive than an aftermarket kit, but it will also be a very clean installation and works seamlessly with the factory audio system and controls.

Scroll down to the bottom.... Here's a link: http://us.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showforum=17 :)

Hello from Las Vegas also! Welcome to the forum!

Will one I used to have count?

A few responses to your points: I have already an offer from an enthusiast for $8734.00 which I am not even prepared to entertain. Admittedly it is not 8 times but it isn't far off. I don't remember if you mentioned this...is your Solara a stock vehicle? If so, $8k is a fantastic price for it. Didn't you say it had 140k+ miles? If you buy a brand new car from a showroom today, and within 6 months go back to the same dealer I wish to know if I am wrong in saying you would be offered at least 6k less than what you paid for. It's possible, but it depends on the price of the car. You can't use specific amounts that easily...it's more like a percentage of the value. Here's how it works: you buy a brand new car. With the current market on Toyotas, I imagine most high production models are selling nearer to dealer invoice than to MSRP, so the new value for the new car is essentially invoice, not sticker price. In order for a dealer to take the car back and re-sell it, now as a used car, they must purchase it for at least a few thousand under invoice in order to list it on their lot for around the invoice price of the car when it was new, then have some mark-up for someone to come in and try to negotiate the price down a little bit. However, if you are trying to buy that car, by the time the dealership has done an inspection to ensure they are not liable for anything (even a very new used car), and they mark it up a bit, you're not going to save a huge amount of money, and you'll lose any manufacturer's incentives that would apply to a new car. Also keep in mind that a large chunk of that money you lost would be your state taxes and fees, which have nothing to do with the value of the car. It's basic math. Additionally lets suppose you sold that car to an end user after 6 months at the value that the dealer was going to give you and in turn that end user decided to sell the car after six months, I promise you that last end user will not loose as much as the one who bought it direct as brand new from the showroom. The biggest percentage reduction is still on a car that is 2-3 years old...if you'll check the KBB values, you'll see this. On that basis if you bought a six months old car privately and if you know what you are doing you will do better.If you want to buy from a showroom go there about 20th of December and try to buy an Ex demo. As in January new models come in the older ones go for a song, because very shortly they would be 1 year old cars. Yes, but if you're buying that one year old new car, you've lost a year of ownership, and you now have a new car that's worth as much as a used 1 year old car, and the new ones will never sell as low as the used ones. In the last two years as we have been going through the biggest frauds USA has seen in its history no cars were selling did you see the deals that was going on ? Some of those are still there on a 20 K car you are not going to save much however when you are about 34K to 40K mark you can easily slaughter the car salesman. I hope you have noticed my sentiments about car salesmen is very similar to your sentiments of the local civic owners. There's some great incentives on cars right now, but I think if you check the news, the biggest problems and dealers going out of business were at the end of 2008, and it's been a steady uphill climb in sales since then. The deals are a bit subjective though...you may be getting a big discount on a new one, but the new car you just bought is worth that much less because all of them are selling at the lower amount. There's a couple views to every point. At the end of this conversation, my point is that your average car is not a good investment....it's just transportation, view it in the same category as a bus pass. It's a monthly expenditure one way or another. Sorry to correct I think the story goes this old fuddy duddy had a Mercedes 180D of 1957 which was driven over one million miles Mercedes Benz in Stuttgart took it for their Museum and in exchange they gave her a brand New Benz. See actual picture of the car below And as for the Volvos well one those Amazons (as they were known) is pictured below. I dare any dealer to offer a book value for those . This is a 1966 two door version and looks most beautiful shark that I ever saw. Yeah, no book value on collectors cars...appraised individually. Goes back to that saying "it's only worth what someone will pay for it". I don't remember the Mercedes one, although that would be pretty cool too. I went searching for the Volvo guy, and found this: http://www.roamingti...miles-volvo.asp

On the Toyota powertrain warranty, if the part is covered under it, you don't pay anything...parts and labor are covered by the manufacturer. Here's the details on the Camry warranty: http://www.toyota.com/camry/warranty.html If most of the Camry SE and XLE models come with a sunroof, it may not be advisable to buy one without a sunroof as you may lose resale value because the vehicle is less desirable.

Have to say that Volvo is pretty cool...some of those old Volvos ran forever. I think I read something about one with a million miles on it awhile ago.

There's some good advice there and some not so good. Car dealers don't care if you're paying cash. That's a myth from many, many years ago when the dealers used to be the lenders, and if you borrowed the funds, you were paying them each month. Now, it's actually better for the dealer if you finance the car. A stack of $10 bills would just take a long time to count, and banks fund immediately. The savings plan is one of the best ways to buy the car, if you have the discipline to do it. An everyday car is a depreciating asset, if you can even consider it an asset, and if you can pay for it up front, you'll need to have some cash left to pay for repairs, insurance, gas, etc. It will eventually wear out, so you'll have to repeat the cycle, and you won't have a large amount of money left from your original investment if the car is 8 or 9 years old. You could also consider leasing a car, or even doing a pre-paid lease with that savings account for the car because then you'll be in a new car under warranty for most of the time, and put out less money and sales tax. Basically, no matter what, you'll have a car payment, if it's in advance in the savings account, or if you are financing or leasing, so weigh the differences and figure out what is best for your life style. There is no blanket best way for everyone. If you own a business or drive your personal car for work, there may also be some write-off potential that you should also consider. The difference between trade value and retail value is never 8 times, unless you're talking about a very inexpensive car. It's definitely going to be a few thousand dollars on anything over $10k or so, so if you have the time (and there's no trade tax credit in your state as that makes a big difference on the trade values) it's worth trying to sell it on your own. You can check out KBB.com for an estimate of the difference between trade value, private party sale value, and retail value. When you read those values, realize that NOTHING is in excellent condition, unless it's a new or show car...and I mean Concours d'Elegance level, not the local Honda Civic club. Realistically, if you're looking for a pre-owned car, one that's about 2-3 years old will have taken the brunt of the depreciation, not one that's only 6 months old, as someone will have had to pay close to new car invoice prices to buy that 6 month old car in the first place. On a new Toyota, you probably won't see too many $9k discounts. An average $20k Toyota probably has $3k in markup, so unless there's a factory rebate on it, you won't find that big discount level...maybe 15 years ago when the cars used to have more markup, but not now. If you want to research it, you can get close to the actual MSRP and invoice amounts on sites like Edmunds.com or KBB.com. You should also be able to see the incentives on those sites, like rebates or special financing.

We don't mind...welcome!

I have an old Katz (Catz?) kit that I took off my 1997 Camry that I'd like to sell and get out of my garage. Paid about $400 for it 7 years ago, drove with it for 2 years, sitting in the garage since then. Has bulbs, ballast, and wiring. Let me know if you're interested.

The picture doesn't look too terrible because it almost looks like a convertible, yes. However, it's still the automotive equivalent of light blue polyester pants...

I think the Lexus HS250h is built on the Avensis platform. With some alterations, obviously....

Much better than the one with the vinyl top!

Just say "NO!!!!!" The only car that's acceptable on is a Cadillac, possibly a Lincoln. And only the big boats, not any of the sporty ones. It damages the roof sheet metal and paint, it destroys re-sale value...very, very, very bad idea, especially on an import. It has not been in style for at least 20 years.

I like the Solara brake light...that's pretty cool.

I like it without the chrome...it's a good look. Nice job.

I get about 17mpg at 100.... that seems pretty good...

Now that you mention this, I vaguely remember it... :(

They should. I think they probably have the same bolt pattern.

Or less. Pretty cool car though.

1.) Fill up your tank. 2.) Drive until it's fairly low 3.) Fill it back up. 4.) Take the number of miles you drove on that tank, divide it by the number of gallons you just put in.