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prof

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prof last won the day on June 17 2017

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Profile Information

  • Toyota Model*
    camry
  • Toyota Year*
    1996
  • Location*
    Georgia (GA)

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  1. I too love Rockauto. Back when I had multiple Camrys in the fleet, I used Wagner ThermoQuiet ceramic brake pads and got great performance from them, low dust and no noise. These days, for all my cars and trucks, I have switched to Akebono ProAct pads. These are even better than the Wagner pads in every way and not much more expensive. If you decide to go Wagner, make sure you buy the ThermoQuiet and not one of their other lines like Quickstop.
  2. prof

    Valve knocking.

    Depends on a few things. What is the condition of the engine and the mileage? Is this a new problem or a long term issue? Piston slap during cold start on a Camry is not common in my experience. Rod knocking at start up would be indicitave of a very worn engine but once again, is this a new problem or a long term issue. If new issue, I would change oil and use a Toyota or another high quality oil filter with the correct anti drain back valve and go from there.
  3. So the car is now running smooth but using more fuel than before?... If the driveability is good (smooth, no shaking etc), then I would look at basic tune up things including timing. When was last time spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter were changed and timing was checked? The ethanol blended fuel here in georgia plays heck on the fuel system and fuel filter.
  4. Did you originally replace the PCV because of poor running? With the pcv hose disconnected, your car should run horribly because of a huge vacume leak. Do the old and new PCV valves make a rattling sound when you shake them? If so, that generally means they are capable of working. There are some more things going on here.
  5. prof

    Starting problem

    It could be caused by any of the previous posters suggestions but I agree that this is not a common problem with Camrys. I would try a systematic approach. #1. Is this a new problem or something you have dealt with a long time? #2 Verify that the car is not running hot by looking at the temp guage. It should stay about mid range when fully warmed up. #3 Have battery and charging system tested by taking to advance auto parts or another place that does it for free. If the above items all check good, then you have narrowed it down to the fuel delivery system. The pump is located under your back seat in the tank and your filter is located under the air filter box in the engine compartment. Good luck!
  6. Get fingers under front of cushion about 1 foot from the side. Simultanously pull back and up on cushion and it should come up. Don't be afraid to use some force.
  7. Your going to hear this over and over but I guess I'll be the first... If you desire a wagon, like many of us do, then make a much more wise financial decision and purchase a acura, audi, BMW or VW wagon, or whatever else is available. Spending your hard earned money to "modify" the camry into a one off frankenstein is akin to pouring money down the drain. Even if you found something similar in shape...deconstructing the unibody, removing key structural members and re-welding everything back together in addition to paint and bondoing a one off interior together...you will spend well into the 5 figure range. When all complete, you will have a car with no value whatsoever. Go buy a 5 year old wagon for less and have something to show for it.
  8. Have you checked your fuses that control power to the belt motors. Thats always the first step when anything electrical not working.
  9. Pastor ken: First thing to do is check your fuse that controls your interior lights. Remove small change drawer locted under headlight switch. Fuse panel located there. The drawer has a diagram on the inside that shows fuse location or you can use owners manual to find out which fuse in fuse panel is for interior lights. Do a visual check on the fuse and if you have a 12 volt test light, check and make sure the light illuminates on both side of fuse. If fuse is good, then go to one of the interior lights and remove the bulb and use that 12 volt test light and see if you have power at the light receptical. If you dont have power at the light receptical, then go examine the door switches which activate the light. They are locted in a black rubber boot on each of the door openomgs and often time they stick in the closed position. If you dont own a test light, go to a car parts store and buy one for 5 dollars. You'll use it ove and over. Let me know how it works out.
  10. ASE tech here. Think about it. 17 years, 270,000 miles. You have received much better service and longer lifespan than most folks get out of a radiator! Consider yourself extremely fortunate to have gone this long and replace the rediator. Parts are breaking and popping off... Winter around the corner, do it now...
  11. What year Camry do you have? Newer models have a timing chain that never needs replacement instead of a belt. On Camry's with timing belts... Any "mechanic" that tells you NOT to change the belt at reccomended interval specified by Toyota is a "mechanic" that I would not let touch my car. The timing belt is made of kevlar and its vitually impossible to visually determine the condition of the belt by looking at it. Also, there are components (water pump and belt tensioner) that should be replaced when the belt is changed because if they ever fail, you'll need to go thru the expense of removing the belt. True, the Camry 4 cylinder engines are non interference engines, meaning that if the timing belt breaks, the engine will not be damaged, however your repair bills will be higher considering towing, setting up the timing on the crankshaft and both cams and any other damage that results from the broken belt slinging around inside the timing cover. Do yourself a big favor and change the belt, tensioner and water pump at the interval Toyota specifies for your year Camry. Taken care of, these engine will run 300,000 miles or more, I know.
  12. prof

    98 Camry

    Its purely a guess on anyones part. Obviously, if you have drained and flushed the cooling system on a timely basis, and used distilled water instead of tap throughout its life, the pump will have been exposed to less corrosive enviorment than if you ignored the cooling system. Always change the water pump when your inside the timing cover doing the timing belt...its cheaper that way. Good luck with your decision. If you are trying to make it to next timing belt replacement before doing the water pump, its highly unlikely that will happen. To have a stress free vacation, I would opt for a new pump before the trip.
  13. Your valve guide SEALS are leaking. Nothing to worry about if its just a puff at cold start up. Probably wont even register as a drop on your oil dipstick.
  14. prof

    Oil chage

    Absolutely switch to synthetic as 1997 - 2001 camry engines are "sludge" engines. Do a google search for "toyota sludge" and learn for yourself. Basically, a 1997 redesign of the oil passeges and temperatures resulted in the oil cooking and sludging up the engine. Synthetic has much better high temperature qualities and will continue to flow at higher temps than regular oil. Offset the higher cost of synthetic oil by extending the change interval, not to exceed whats in the book of course..
  15. The top bolt you mention threads into, not thru the motor mount. Your motor mount is worn out and its common to have to replace it. Epoxy will not work in this application at all. You may want to verify that the bolt is tight. If its tight and the engine moves on acceleration, the hydraulic cylinder in the mount is simply worn out.
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