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rasta420

PO135 code

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There's a check engine light in my 98 Avalon, and its PO135. The description is: Heated O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction (bank 1,sensor 1). Autozone says that I need to replace both O2 sensors. Is this true? I think there is one O2 sensor on each exhaust manifold before the cat converter, so which one would I need to change? I'm really not trying to dish out the $140/each Toyota is asking for.

Thanks

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I had the identical problem on my Land Cruiser. I replaced only the one bad sensor. Bank 1 is the side that does include cylinder 1 (I believe this is the front side). Still no failure on the other one, a year later.

I bought a Bosch sensor at Pep Boys for about $75. I have also seen these on eBay. If you buy the Bosch, don't be afraid of using their special connector.

Pep Boys also loaned me the special socket I needed to force it out and reinstall it.

Be sure to use anti-sieze on the new sensor.

These O2 sensors have a heating filament in them to get 'em working faster than normal exhaust gas temp. The filament is not too much different than the filament in a light bulb, so it's not unusual for one to fail and the other one not to.

Mike

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For anyone who might find this helpful. This was my experience on the fix (Updated)

I have a '98 Avalon and got the same P0135 code when checked at Advance Auto Parts yesterday. I purchased the Bosch "universal" O2 Sensor for $ 64 as opposed to the $147 "wired to OEM" special. I agree with Mike that the wiring connection isn't too tough so save some $ and buy the universal unit. However, the rub I had was knowing which sensor is Bank 1, Sensor 1. Going to my Haynes book shows O2 Sensor with Bank 1, Sensor 1 being the front sensor easily seen when you open the hood and look down on the exhaust manifold. But here is the kicker, the Avalon has two sensors, Bank 2 sensor 1 is the other with the heater circuit jumper together. Bank 2 sensor 1 is between the engine and firewall, you can see better on driver's side when looking for it. Going to the electrical wiring diagrams in the back of Haynes shows that if either sensor heater circuit faults I believe you will get the infamous P0135 code "Bank 1 Sensor 1 heater circuit". Love those electrical diagrams. So disconnect the sensors at the connector and pull out your volt meter. Check the heater circuit on each sensor before you replace the wrong one. Check the terminals where the 2 black wires connect, no polarity on the heater circuit, for resistance (ohms) should be 11 to 16 ohms when engine is cold. For instance, I got 13.2 on the front one and the back showed OPEN. Replaced the back one and then went back to Advance for a PCM reset to clear the "Check Engine" light.

I had the identical problem on my Land Cruiser.  I replaced only the one bad sensor.  Bank 1 is the side that does include cylinder 1 (I believe this is the front side).  Still no failure on the other one, a year later.

I bought a Bosch sensor at Pep Boys for about $75.  I have also seen these on eBay.  If you buy the Bosch, don't be afraid of using their special connector.

Pep Boys also loaned me the special socket I needed to force it out and reinstall it.

Be sure to use anti-sieze on the new sensor.

These O2 sensors have a heating filament in them to get 'em working faster than normal exhaust gas temp.  The filament is not too much different than the filament in a light bulb, so it's not unusual for one to fail and the other one not to.

Mike

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I have a Solara 2000 V6 - and got have the code of P0135.

So - I need to replace the O2 Sensor - Bank 1 Sensor 1 - too. Would you know where it is located on my engine? - It's a 1MZ-FE engine.

I've posted this message on the Camry section too.

Thanks

mikeFromOttawa

==============

For anyone who might find this helpful.  This was my experience on the fix (Updated)

I have a '98 Avalon and got the same P0135 code when checked at Advance Auto Parts yesterday.  I purchased the Bosch "universal" O2 Sensor for $ 64 as opposed to the $147 "wired to OEM" special. I agree with Mike that the wiring connection isn't too tough so save some $ and buy the universal unit.  However, the rub I had was knowing which sensor is Bank 1, Sensor 1.  Going to my Haynes book shows O2 Sensor with Bank 1, Sensor 1 being the front sensor easily seen when you open the hood and look down on the exhaust manifold.  But here is the kicker, the Avalon has two sensors, Bank 2 sensor 1 is the other with the heater circuit jumper together.  Bank 2 sensor 1 is between the engine and firewall, you can see better on driver's side when looking for it.  Going to the electrical wiring diagrams in the back of Haynes shows that if either sensor heater circuit faults I believe you will get the infamous P0135 code "Bank 1 Sensor 1 heater circuit".  Love those electrical diagrams.  So disconnect the sensors at the connector and pull out your volt meter. Check the heater circuit on each sensor before you replace the wrong one.  Check the terminals where the 2 black wires connect, no polarity on the heater circuit, for resistance (ohms) should be 11 to 16 ohms when engine is cold.  For instance, I got 13.2 on the front one and the back showed OPEN.  Replaced the back one and then went back to Advance for a PCM reset to clear the "Check Engine" light.

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My avalon 99 check engine light came on a month ago, free check at autozone tells me the code P0135(B1S1).

I know autozone sometimes gives wrong information. my previous Corolla also get bad O2 sensor code from autozone although actually the bad is at muffler. I checked freely at Cottman again, confirmed P0135.

I ordered a sensor from houston toyota dealer at $144, followed the instruction from autozone and Haynes book, changed O2 sensor at front between the engine and rediator. I cancel the code. But after I drived 10 miles the light comes again. Check gives the same code P0135. Then I pull out the rear sensor (between the engine and firewall, underneath, hard to access) , and check the resistance, it gives me 2~3 MOhm (should be 11~19 Ohm). Most books confused me, I got totally lost at which is the Bank1 sensor 1. Now it's clear, B1S1 is rear one, which is hard to change. Then I unplug the blue 15 Ohm fuse in the biggest block in the compartment to clear the error code. Finally, I fixed the P0135.

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