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You definitely do not have to remove the nut to remove the rotor. It is strange that you can not get it off. As you say it does not look rusted, although that is a common problem. I suggest that you take the car to a brake shop or dealer or your mechanic and ask them to just loosen the rotors. Maybe they have a tool that will get the job done. Once they are loose, then you can continue with the job yourself. I recommend that a dry lubricant be sprayed on the mating surfaces of the rotor to eliminate this problem for the future. Just make sure not to get any lube on the braking surfaces. I also make sure the rotor is loose every year when I check the pad for wear, just to make sure that rust is not bonding the rotor to the hub. One caution: if you hit the rotor too hard with a mallet or pry on it too hard it could bend and that would cause you to need to replace the rotor, so be careful. However, if it is on too tight you (or the mechanic) might have to hit is so hard to get it off that it bends it. In that case you will have to buy a new rotor. I would always buy OEM rotors. My experience is that they are better than any aftermarket rotor. I also use the OEM pads since it is critical that the technology of the rotor agrees with the technology of the pad. If, for example, you wanted to switch to ceramic pads I would buy the pads and rotors from the same source. They are designed to work together. Let us know how it worked out.

That's a lot of money to replace a cabin filter. You are right to replace it yourself. It is easy. Now the timing belt is another thing. It takes HOURS to replace. There are lots of parts that have to be removed before you can get at it and you have to be real careful about getting the belt and pulleys lined up perfectly. Usually the hardest part is removing the crankshaft pulley bolt which is big and tight. The serpentine belt (which drives the air conditioner, alternator and power steering pump) is easy and quick to replace. It usually requires just moving a tensioner (it is held against the belt with spring tension) and slipping the old belt off and new belt on. Sounds like your extended warranty should cover the water pump. Read your policy. It should list what is covered and what is not covered. Good Luck.

It sounds like a small leak at the water pump. I have done these type of repairs and they are pretty involved. Yes you should probably change the timing belt at the same time. Try to find a diy (do-it -yourself) video on youtube and get written instructions (ehow perhaps) or a repair manual for the car. When I did it it took me more than a week in the evenings to get it all done. Also, change the coolant, and serpentine belt and the idlers, etc. that you will have to remove. I see on Edmunds that the water pump may be covered by the 5 year/ 60K mile powertrain warranty. Maybe you can get them to fix it for free. Even if you are just over the mileage limit you may want to push for them to cover it. I think the watr pump should last much longer than 60K miles.

You are welcome and welcome to the Toyota Owners Club. I have had great success with Toyotas - have owned 2 of them. One for 12 years bought new and sold last year with 130K miles on it (a 2000 Camry), one for 10 years bought used and currently for sale (2000 Solara with 103K miles). Actually I think I am crazy to get rid of it but I bought another car on ebay and it is newer.

Sounds like you damaged the splash guard. It keep water from being thrown up into the engine during rain events. It also has an aerodynamic function which helps you get better gas mileage. The clips are called splash guard retainer clips. Probably the cheapest place to get them is on ebay. I looked today and there are a number of listings for Corolla splash guard retainer clips. I would look under the car and determine how many you need and what size they are. Sometimes they use different length ones at different places on the car. You may well need just one size. Look at the ones on the undamaged side of the car to determine the sizes you need. They become brittle with age so get a few extra. To remove them you just pull on the center part with you fingers or maybe a screwdriver or pointy nose pliers. Then pull the outer ring and the whole thing should come out. To install a clip you pull the center portion out and push on the outer ring to get it into the hole. Then push the center section in and it will lock in place. The following link is what I found. It is a good place to start. http://www.ebay.com/sch/Exterior-/33637/i.html?mvsub=1&_mcatda=true&_nkw=clips%202009%20Toyota%20Corolla&selfil=1%2C2%2C3&selvel=2009~Toyota~Corolla~-~-

For a car this old (and any used car in fact) the most important thing are the service records. If the owner has them it is a real plus. You can see how the car was cared for and what issues it had. My daughter had a Corolla and had issues with water leakage around the rear tail lights into the trunk, also a wheel bearing went after about 100K miles. Also, the rubber seal around the moon roof cracked and leaked. Make sure that the fluids were changed at the proper intervals. That is probably the most important issue. Make sure it LOOKS cared for. Better to buy a car from an older gentleman that has owned it since new.

Hopefully you have the service records from the previous owner. If not I would assume that NOTHING was done recently. Change oil and filter, transmission fluid, flush coolant, replace power steering fluid, flush brake lines, change air filter, change fuel filter, rotate tires if needed, check tire wear and get wheel alignment if needed, have brakes checked for wear, have front end suspension parts checked for any loose components. Find out if the timing belt and waer pump were replaced and if not they need it. Probably replace spark plugs. Remember to use distilled water with the coolant unless you buy 50:50 mix. Replace wiper blades if needed.Check inflation of tires, especially the spare. Check condition of radiator and heater hoses and replace if needed. At this age they might well need to be replaced. Do that when the coolant is replaced. Good luck. If the car was taken care of it will give you many years of good service. I have a 2000 Solara with 100K miles and it is in pristine condition. And has been super dependable and problem free.

I think, unless under severe operating conditions, you do not have to change the fluid. However, since I am a do-it-yourself kind of guy, I drain what can be removed by opening the drain plug (2-3 quarts) and refill the exact amount (or whatever is needed to get to the proper level on the dip stick) every 30k miles. This keeps the fluid fairly fresh and eliminates the need for a complete flush, ever. No need to change the filter. This is a very economical way to keep your fluid fairly fresh. I use Toyota fluid from the dealer.

Under normal operating conditions you manual says to change the fluid as needed based on appearance (no prescribed distance or time). Under special conditions (like the type of driving you seem to be doing) replace at 60,000 miles. You may be in a dusty area and may, based on the appearance of the fluid, change it more regularly like every 30K. I doubt whether you need it more frequently than that.

I also agree with earlier posters. Depending on your driving habits you might want to change the oil a little earlier than 10k. I would follow the intervals listed in your owner's manual. And keep the receipts so you have proof of oil changes and other service when you go to sell the car. This will help your resale value. Also following the owner's manual will ensure that your warranty stays valid. That is important. Sometimes these engines can collect sludge and carbon residue if the oil is not changed regularly.

I had this on the same engine in a Camry 2000. I switched to semisynthetic and used Auto-RX maintenance dose and it seemed to fix the problem over time. Probably the problem is leaking through the valve stems as the car sits. When it is started the oil burns off. I also hear that Sea-foam is good. It is a little more agressive than Auto-RX. Just follow the directions and you should be OK. Other people may try an upper cylinder lubricant with success. Unfortunately this problem is due more to wear than a buildup so these fixes can not repair what has been worn away.

I have one too that had a grille with peeling chrome. I just bought the original version on ebay at a fraction of the dealer cost. I like my cars to look original. But what you did was very nice. When I tried to paint my old grille the paint did not hold up well at all.

I have a suspicion that when your tires roll over a sloped surface the wheel puts pressure on the brake pads just enough for the pad to touch the rotor. This may make a noise. If the sound goes away when you apply the brake while backing up in your uneven driveway that would tend to confirm my hypothesis. If the pads are worn down the wear indicator may be scraping on the rotor. That may make the noise too.

Sounds like a connection problem or a fuse problem.

Sounds like it could be a vapor lock situation. I have not heard of these cars having this sort of problem however. Vapor lock is when the gas in the fuel line vaporizes when the engine is hot. This causes the gas flow to stop since the vapor blocks the flow. After the engine cools the vapor condenses and allows the flow of fuel to happen. The fix would be to relocate or insulate the fuel line so it does not get too hot.