B-R-T

Worn synchronyzer? Worn gear teeth? Damaged gearshift mechanism? There could be alot of reasons.. but because it's only for one gear I would guess it's synchronyzer or gear teeth

I believe he meant the fuel rail

You forgot to tell them to check the movement of caliper guides, cuz those things like to seize up. If it happens grease up the bolts that hold the caliper and move in and out to grease up inside of the guide. "Make sure you place a dirty rag around your brake fluid reservoir BEFORE pushing the calliper into the cylinder as fluid is likely to overspill and will make a mess of your drive and engine bay... Doh!" Doh!, you shouldn't add any brake fluid when it gets low because of brake pads are getting thin.. When you're pushing the pistons in, you're just restoring the original level of brake fluid.. Doh!

No, it's not necessary

You gotta be more specific, dude. What kind of adjustment are you talking about?

First of all.. Why do you want an upgrade? Do you want it stiffer or softer?

What exactly do you want to do? Do you want it to be double form the manifold (separate manifolds for 2 exhaust ports) or do you want to just have 2 mufflers? If you want to have double-from-manifold system you gotta get a spare manifold, and a piece of pipe to be made to two-piece manifold. Then you gotta get two catalyc converters (same flow), pair of resonators (inline "mufflers") and pair of mufflers. If you only want to get two-muffler system you gotta find a Y-pipe, two mufflers and a piece of pipe. Get it to a muffler shop to get it bent and welded. The second choise is not going to give anything performance-wise, cuz most of the backpressure that is created is created at the exhaust manifold and catalyc converter. If you are going to leave stock manifold and single cat you are not doing anything.. It's just for looks. But it's easier and cheaper way to go..

Maybe a piece of ducktape would do?

actually sometimes you gotta pound it with a hammer to get it off the hub. we having this problem quite often at our dealership. you gotta puond the tire form the inside side few times, the turn the tire and puond a few times there. It should come off at some time. Just don't hit the rim, only hit the tire. It's better to put some kind of plank or some kind of other piece of wood on a tire, cuz sharp edges of a hammer can damage a tire

Nothing easier than boosting that motherf*****. Go to ebay, get a turbo exhaust manifold for your engine, get a decent turbo for your engine cc's (is it 1.8?. find a turbo that has a copressor efficiency map and do some calculations), bring it to a good muffler shop to fit a downpipe (you gotta find an outlet flange for your turbo). Then get a reliable wideband A/F ratio meter with a gauge, a boost gauge and a piggyback ECU and start tuning! A knock detector would be a good addition if you want to be 100% sure, that you are not going to fu** up your engine. If you are not going above 7 - 8 psi of boost, you'll probably be good with your engine internals. Air filter-turbo-intercooler-throttle plumbing shouldn't be very hard to fabricate from aluminum pipes and silicon couplings. P.S. Always check your A/F ratio. If it's getting too lean even when you are adding maximum duty cycle for your injectors with a piggyback - get bigger injectors or increase your fuel pressure with an aftermarket FPR. If fuel pressure gets too low during hard acceleration - get a higher flow fuel pump. I suggest to get an inline one, cuz they are easier to install

It's not making that sound when cold, because metal expands when heated. That means your engine is not badly damaged yet. That's why you don't have any lockup occuring. Milage doesn't mean anything if engine was built crappy. S*it happens. If you haven't changed oil frequent enought it could damage main bearings too.

It's not a bakcfire if RPM needle is steady. Could be something in transmision or power steering pump.

Check for vacuum leaks (hissing sound when engine is running). Idle air control valve could be failing. EVAP purge valve could be failing. MAF, fuel system is not likely. It cannot increase engine speed without more air coming in.

If your combination (or part of it - the metering valve) valve is failing you cannot simply check it. This valve delays hydraulic pressure for the disk brakes until pressure is enought to apply the drum brakes. If it's failing it will cause the nose dive. But if drum brakes are not operational at all it will cause the same thing plus disk brakes will have to do all 100% of braking and most likely overheat. Check operation of rear brakes. If it's working - change the valve.

engine would stall if it was running at low RPM during cold starts